eschulist
Active Member
Almost ready to start plumbing.
Can I get some help / recommendations / suggestions on ways to improve my plumbing and or sump. Here are 2 of my main designs. I've probably created 3-5 others but they are unfinished as these two seemed to be the best layouts and showed the 2 main styles.
In all these examples I have 2 1" drains, and 2 1/2" returns. The main pump plumbing until the split is 3/4"
Internal Pump Layout. This one uses less plumbing and allows the pump to be taken offline without dripping water everywhere. The issue with this design if that the large plumbing assembly above the pump is 17.5" tall. The stand interior is only 27.5" so that means the sump can only be 10" tall to allow the sump to be cleanly removed at the union. After looking at it more this isn't a HUGE issue as I could have a taller sump. I'd just have to disconnect both ball valves unions and I could remove a 12-14" tall sump if I really had to. In my example I show a glass AquaMaxx that fits. Its only 9.5" tall. This allows for the union to be in place and for the entire sump to be slid out if needed. The issue with having such a shallow sump is when operating it will only have 5ish inches of water. This barely covers the whole pump and is actually less than the height of my NeoTherm heater which says it should be installed vertical.
Blue tape is holding the reactors together as I'm missing the thread / thread union to join the two.
The next example is having the pump external. This allows for a taller more cube like sump. Two extra valves are needed to remove the pump from service. I just noticed while looking at this image that I screwed up the placement of the wye check valve. It needs to be above the Tee for the reactor (Like in my internal example) otherwise the water will just back flow through the reactor when the pump is offline. The two examples also show the difference between having both drains on the back of the sump or on the left side of the sump. Is there much of a benefit either way?
By having them both in the back I could do a custom sized ZeroEdge sump like this.
Or on the side like this
For people that have sumps like this, with the filter sock offset from the drains, how much detritus is trapped at the bottom of the drains that never goes over the wall to get filtered out by the socks? I'd imagine going straight into the sock would make sure everything is filtered out but I lose the ability to have a cover to reduce noise and splashing.
If anyone has tips or sees anything that could be rearranged let me know (Just like I noticed my mistake in the order of the tee and wye check valve placement)
Can I get some help / recommendations / suggestions on ways to improve my plumbing and or sump. Here are 2 of my main designs. I've probably created 3-5 others but they are unfinished as these two seemed to be the best layouts and showed the 2 main styles.
In all these examples I have 2 1" drains, and 2 1/2" returns. The main pump plumbing until the split is 3/4"
Internal Pump Layout. This one uses less plumbing and allows the pump to be taken offline without dripping water everywhere. The issue with this design if that the large plumbing assembly above the pump is 17.5" tall. The stand interior is only 27.5" so that means the sump can only be 10" tall to allow the sump to be cleanly removed at the union. After looking at it more this isn't a HUGE issue as I could have a taller sump. I'd just have to disconnect both ball valves unions and I could remove a 12-14" tall sump if I really had to. In my example I show a glass AquaMaxx that fits. Its only 9.5" tall. This allows for the union to be in place and for the entire sump to be slid out if needed. The issue with having such a shallow sump is when operating it will only have 5ish inches of water. This barely covers the whole pump and is actually less than the height of my NeoTherm heater which says it should be installed vertical.
Blue tape is holding the reactors together as I'm missing the thread / thread union to join the two.
The next example is having the pump external. This allows for a taller more cube like sump. Two extra valves are needed to remove the pump from service. I just noticed while looking at this image that I screwed up the placement of the wye check valve. It needs to be above the Tee for the reactor (Like in my internal example) otherwise the water will just back flow through the reactor when the pump is offline. The two examples also show the difference between having both drains on the back of the sump or on the left side of the sump. Is there much of a benefit either way?
By having them both in the back I could do a custom sized ZeroEdge sump like this.
Or on the side like this
For people that have sumps like this, with the filter sock offset from the drains, how much detritus is trapped at the bottom of the drains that never goes over the wall to get filtered out by the socks? I'd imagine going straight into the sock would make sure everything is filtered out but I lose the ability to have a cover to reduce noise and splashing.
If anyone has tips or sees anything that could be rearranged let me know (Just like I noticed my mistake in the order of the tee and wye check valve placement)
