Hart's 120 3/4" starfire expansion!

Great build Just got done reading your 10 pages ,Do you run GFO on your tank and how does it effect your clams .I would like to try keeping clams so I would like your input about keeping the clams alive .

Thanks
Willi
 
Great build Just got done reading your 10 pages ,Do you run GFO on your tank and how does it effect your clams .I would like to try keeping clams so I would like your input about keeping the clams alive .

Thanks
Willi

Thanks! The tank isn't show stopping like some here, but I will get it there or die trying, lol.

With clams, please remember this is just my experience along with reading clam books, just about every forum post and research article I can find. I don't present any of this as fact that never changes or that I am 100% right.

That is my disclaimer that if anyone reads this and disagrees that is ok, no reason to get upset!

I run GFO all the time. When I notice either corals getting brown or cleaning the glass more often I test tank and reactor phosphate and replace if needed. Never had and issues with new media and clams, or gfo and clams in general. I think lots of that got started in when pinched mantle was going around, PM is pretty rare now and I have never seen it, so I can't comment from personal experience, but when dealing with issues like that it can be nearly impossible to really tell what is going on and it seemed like even the reports at the time were mixed with some fighting PM and using GFO with no issues. Because of all that I don't worry about it. I wouldn't use aluminum phosphate material though, just based of Randy's experiments releasing aluminum. Even if there is some disagreement among the professional chemists, why not avoid it since GFO seems fine.

There are a couple things that jump out at me with keeping clams. The 1st thing is getting healthy stock. It seems easier than it really is, since many times healthy clams looks great and then dead. Overall I have come to think unless you see new growth the clam is not ok. Everything can look good, mantle extension, response, color, but if you don't see at least a tiny bit of growth that clam will die unless something is changed. That is why finding healthy stock can be tough. If you can have a LFS hold a clam until you notice new growth from the time they get it - that is a great option if available. Most online vendors are pretty good, but they get them in and sell them fast, so there is quite a bit of risk relative to other livestock we buy like fish or coral that show decline or sickness relatively obviously. If you can ask how long they have had that shipment - longer the better, and point blank ask about new growth. Good vendors should be upfront. I have gotten sick clams from divers den (ORA) *which I consider the best online vendor and the best mariculture (ORA)* that infected everything I have, and I have also gotten sickly ORA clams that just don't make it more than 2 weeks. Don't know why, but at least the ORA clams from live aquaria I have had trouble with. I think others have had trouble too by reports at nano-reef. So this is the toughest thing IMO. But most the time you are good, and if the only clam in your system you don't need to qt them, otherwise IMO it's more important to QT clams than any other livestock I keep. Everything else from divers den and ORA has been fantastic, so it's not a negative review, just the clams have been problematic for me and a few others.

After finding health stock, the biggest issue is lighting. They need some good lights for sure! My rule of thumb is this, if the clam dies within two weeks (give or take) it was not healthy to start with. If it goes 1-2 months and dies without you noticing new growth it was lack of lighting. Of course that assumes everything else is healthy in the tank and nothing was picking on the clam! It also assumes you didn't add any other clams. Disease can spread through them super fast.

Like most everything clam you can't really give a hard rule about lights. Clams are individuals, so some even in the same species need more light and some less light. The best we can do is make general lighting rules on what works for most people, but remember there is always the chance you get an individual that needs more or less, and they have an absolute minimum threshold they require. Filter feeding seems like it can help only a very little bit on this. Think of it this way, if the clam is getting 99.99% of the energy it needs to survive it will eventually die. It will take a long time, but will die.

Finally make sure nothing picks on it! This point is pretty short, lol. Anything that bites it or is too aggressive with them will kill them eventually.

So those are my long winded tips on clams!! Basically if you start with a healthy clam, have a good tank that is supporting coral, and have enough lighting (many cases the clam needs more light than coral) and avoid critters that pick on them you have a really good shot! But don't get discouraged, sometimes you don't get a good one, or they die out of the blue from a disease or something totally unknown that you can't prevent. Despite all that they are easily my favorite livestock!

I don't think there is really all that much to supplement with that helps. Phytoplankton and golden pearls (the smallest size) may get consumed, but are not needed if you have fish or nutrients in the water. I do like carbon dosing and think it is good for the clams. Not only can they potentially eat the critters carbon dosing grows, but they may be able to directly take some nutrition from carbon dosing directly from the water. Particularly acetic acid (vinegar).

I am sure that is much more than need or desired, but I enjoy talking clam!
 
Oh yea I forgot, bigger is much, much better. Seems like there are lots of small clams on the market. I have been tempted and bought them too. Try to resist! Larger ones do so much better. At least over 3" if not larger. Imo well worth paying more for a large guy. I have not found out what exactly makes the little ones so hard, but there are several theories. Anywho, go big or go home, ha!
 
I won the acro growout challange so I will get that 4th hydra 26! It worked out perfect, how often does that happen??? Would have been cool to win the overall, but I would have wanted to set up the tank prize and that would have ened up costing me more and more $$. This prize directly saves me money since I already was going to get the exact same light!

Other news I bought a BRS 50ml/day doser and will use this at night to dose kalk. I will still use 2 part on the bubbleM doser, but I have the room and my pH while better than it was, still has room to improve. I will not dose through the ATO as I don't like how changing evaporation alters the dose. I will do a fixed amount at night well under what my tank evaps and let the ato as normal during the day. The BM doser will pick up what the kalk can't supply.

I think this is what I want, I was explaining it to a friend and rather than type it I am lazy and screen grab:

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The kalk seems to be working fantastic so far. The BRS doser is pretty slick and the 30g of kalk should last a long time at the rate I dose to keep pH up at night. Here are a before and after:

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Keeps pH right around 8 at night instead of dropping to 7.9. The outside air raised pH from 7.8 to 7.9. I am really happy with kalk and how easy to was to setup with the apex.
 
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Looking great! Hey, I saw on Facebook girs post about you winning the grow out contest by r2r. Had no idea you're in IA; I'm in coralville. Where you located? Would love to come checkout your setup sometime
 
Looking great! Hey, I saw on Facebook girs post about you winning the grow out contest by r2r. Had no idea you're in IA; I'm in coralville. Where you located? Would love to come checkout your setup sometime

I am in Johnston, not too far north of I80 through Des Moines. Nice to have another IA person!
 
So a cool thing about these lights and the controller is that I can run the lights at different intensities. I staggered the 2 middles lights to be a bit offset for the clams in the middle and also I am running them at 85% intensity longer than the outside lights. I tried to keep the color ratio the same so you really don't notice it much when looking at the tank, at least I don't. No idea if it will work, but I want to give the wild maximas all the light I can. I am watching the coral near them to make sure there isn't bleaching, but they are pretty used to strong LED light, and most of them are only exposed to 1 of the fixtures directly, not both. Will see how well it works!

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Found 3 or 4 berghia... ummm... they are just wrestling. That's it.

IMG_2154.jpg
 
Have the berghia`s cleared up the aiptasia ?

Goodness no.... The aptasia have gotten worse, but that is the process. It takes a few months for the berghia to have babies and the babies to have babies. The population exponentially increases and that is when they start to eliminate the aptasia. Depending on the infestation this can take a while. I was just happy to see some adults still in there! I'm thinking of reducing the gyre for a while, I don't think they can get to problem areas in high flow.
 
Yes it takes time but once they start disappearing they go quick!
 
My tank has Pukani rock and the wand does not get In all the holes .I thought this would be a quick fix !
 
I posted a while back about having some ich issues, one reason I got the diatom filter I have been running almost every night. So far so good, the 1st week there were some new spots as expected, but nothing since then. The filter catching free swimming ones might help along with good nutrition, bare bottom and lots of flow giving them time to form immunity. Anyway, since I got them 2 of the pyramid butterfly fish have had minor bacterial infections. Cloudy eye and such. I was hoping it would get better but it slowly seems to get worse. I tried catching for hospital tank, but good luck. I am now trying some medicated food linked below. I am trying the bacterial and parasite foods. I will report back on them. I hear good things from those who try them. The tangs don't eat the bacterial formulation, but they love the parasite one - which is good. The butterfly fish gobble them all up.




Dr. G?s Caviar medicated fish food for treating three broad fish diseases
 
My tank has Pukani rock and the wand does not get In all the holes .I thought this would be a quick fix !


Yea, overall I like aptasia x better, but I use both now. They are a real pain!!
 
Yes it takes time but once they start disappearing they go quick!

I have a ton of flow. I have been wondering if I should turn the gyre down at night as I don't think they can get to spots with that much flow. Thoughts?
 
I had an Ick problem for the last 3 months in one of my tanks .My hyppo blue tang was covered in little white spots but eating like a pig . With the way the rock work was put together with all large pieces there`s no way to catch it !Since it was eating I gave it TheraA+ with garlic every morning and evening . I also gave small amounts of brine or Mysis shrimp soaked in garlic EX-Tract a couple times a day .I let it soak for a few hours before feeding . I even tried Dr.G`s medicated food ,spent 19 buck`s on it and the fish would not eat it ! I also added 7 drops of Ex-Tract to the water after lights out . It took 3 months but in the last 2 weeks no signs of ich . Now the food is back to normal .I just add Extract once a week . It worked for me .I have read that Garlic does not cure Ich but that`s all the fish was eating so it must work .
 
I have my flow turned down to 50% and the little buggers still find a way to get Into the rock :(
 

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