Hawaiian Black Sand...Yes or No?

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Thoughts about using Hawaiian Black Sand. Getting ready to upgrade my 75 to a 180 and was looking for something different. Are there any Pro's/Con's?
 
I was at reef stock in Denver a few weeks ago and most of the vendors were using Hawaiian black sand in their tanks and I asked the same question. Response was that there is really no difference besides aesthetics. A little less reflection from the sand on the underside of the corals. Not sure if that matters at all. I'm curious to see what others say though. If you go with it you let us know your experience because I would like to do the same!
 
Pros: new look and makes bright colors pop.
Cons: people complain that it gets nasty looking over time (should not be a problem if you clean it occasionally) . Larger grain size (can be a problem with gobies or if you plan to have a DSB) Also everything looks more dim since it doesn't reflect light like white sand.

I really like it in my pico where I have very bright coral which is the focus of the tank. If you plan to have a lot of fish then I'd probably go with a white substrate. Just my opinion though
 
Ive used it, and one of the issues is some brands have their black sand magnetized so it sticks to pump impeller magnets, and also gets moved around more often. When you try to clean the glass, sand would get stuck between the cleaner and glass making it a bit of a hassle.

The regular black sand manufacturers have it sort of mixed with a bit of white which takes away the look of an all black sand tank.

The look of corals is insane under black sand though, seems like it highlights everything ...

Another drawback is it makes the tank WAY darker, I switched back from black to white and my wife came in the room and asked if I had gotten new more powerful lights for the tank...
It is nice, but long term you might regret a bit IMO.
 
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I used it for a while in one of my tanks. I did have the sand that turned out to have the metal particles in it. Noticed it when my skimmate was rust colored. Changed it out to the regular aragonite sand and that went away. Also, if you are going for the clean black look, you may find it a pain to maintain. Almost anything that settles on the bottom will be a lot more noticeable and in a 180, I think you would get tired of always cleaning the sand. I tried it once and I am over it. You may feel differently. I really didn't see any pro side to it. It was a different color and that's about it.
 
Where would you all suggest for me to get Live Rock from?
 
Long term use is what I'm looking for. I've had black sand for seven months. Wondering if I should start removing it.
 
To address the magnetized issues you could have; make sure you're getting genuine Hawaiian black sand, it's a lava based substrate and should have no magnetic properties.

Secondly, since the sand is not arragonite, you won't get the mild Ph stability that you will get from standard reef sand.

That being said, changing your substrate is not the hardest thing in the world. If you have a tug to try black sand, go for it, if it's not for you just remove it and replace it overtime. I would much rather do something I can easily change than regret not doing it at all.
 
Has anyone had back sand for more than 2 years.
 
The source of the sand will probably make a difference. Obviously, black sand is of volcanic origin and there is 'young' sand and 'aged' sand. Young sand (at least that from the Big Island) is full of metals, notably iron with a chance of copper. It also contains nitrate and fluoride. I ran the water systems at the Four Seasons/Hualalai and Kukio resorts for years, and had to deal with the effects of rainwater leaching through young volcanic rock and into the aquifiers. Eventually, we installed RO systems rated at a few million gallons a day to resolve some of the water issues. Also, Baker (once curator of the Shed Aquarium) recommended against lava rock due to potential of copper leaching. If you're using it with good success, more power to you!
 
The source of the sand will probably make a difference. Obviously, black sand is of volcanic origin and there is 'young' sand and 'aged' sand. Young sand (at least that from the Big Island) is full of metals, notably iron with a chance of copper. It also contains nitrate and fluoride. I ran the water systems at the Four Seasons/Hualalai and Kukio resorts for years, and had to deal with the effects of rainwater leaching through young volcanic rock and into the aquifiers. Eventually, we installed RO systems rated at a few million gallons a day to resolve some of the water issues. Also, Baker (once curator of the Shed Aquarium) recommended against lava rock due to potential of copper leaching. If you're using it with good success, more power to you!

Interesting notes! Thanks for sharing. Somewhat surprising to hear since I have used Hawaiian Black Sand and it never had any magnetic properties.
 
Secondly, since the sand is not arragonite, you won't get the mild Ph stability that you will get from standard reef sand.

I was under the impression that aragonite sand didn't buffer pH except in low pH ( meaning very low 7.s) systems.
Am I misremembering or mistaken altogether?

Maybe I'm thinking calcium...

I'll have to try to find those articles again.

Aside from that, I have black sand in two of my tanks. About half black and half white.
I have never noticed any magnetic issues.
I've never done a cu test on it, but my inverts are thriving. My larger tank has a slight nitrate problem, but I thought that was my shoddy husbandry.

I love the look of the black sand, and the contrast it gives to the rest of the tank.

You definitely have to keep it clean though.
 
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I was under the impression that aragonite sand didn't buffer pH except in low pH ( meaning very low 7.s) systems.
Am I misremembering or mistaken altogether?

Maybe I'm thinking calcium...

I'll have to try to find those articles again.
.

That's true, but the pH in slow moving water roughly 1" below the sand bed and under neath rocks creates pockets where the pH is acidic enough to help buffer the water. Also, aragonite does not need a pH of 7 to begin to dissolve. True aragonite in grains smaller than 2.0mm can dissolve in a pH of around 8. The cheaper alternative to aragonite--Calcite, needs a much lower pH to begin to dissolve, generally the lower 7s as you mentioned.
 
That's true, but the pH in slow moving water roughly 1" below the sand bed and under neath rocks creates pockets where the pH is acidic enough to help buffer the water. Also, aragonite does not need a pH of 7 to begin to dissolve. True aragonite in grains smaller than 2.0mm can dissolve in a pH of around 8. The cheaper alternative to aragonite--Calcite, needs a much lower pH to begin to dissolve, generally the lower 7s as you mentioned.

Thank you! That was bugging me, and I hadn't looked it up again.

I appreciate the information and clarification!
 
Interesting notes! Thanks for sharing. Somewhat surprising to hear since I have used Hawaiian Black Sand and it never had any magnetic properties.
Yeah, I got in trouble with my boss (a geologist by training) when I told the Kukio people that some particles in the sand were magnetic. I had to literally take them out in the field and drag a magnetic through the sand to prove it.
 

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