Heater controller to use with apex as safety backup

MtrSkllz

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I just use the Apex with the Finnex the extra controller is just over kill.
 
You could use that but the Apex has code to be a controller. I’ve got my heater set at 79 f. and my Apex then controls it to maintain between 77-77.5 f. The heaters internal controller is my backup if the Apex fails.
 
I just use the Apex with the Finnex the extra controller is just over kill.

If the Apex fails on and you have no failsafe it will cook the tank.

You could use that but the Apex has code to be a controller. I’ve got my heater set at 79 f. and my Apex then controls it to maintain between 77-77.5 f. The heaters internal controller is my backup if the Apex fails.

The finnex titanium does not have an internal controller. But that is exactly what I want to do. Apex controls temp, this will just go in line set at a higher temp like 82 or something to make sure the heater shuts off if there is an issue with the apex
 
I dont have an Apex (yet) but i do use an inkbird dual stage temp controller. Turns my heat and fans on/off, and has worked well so far- about 8 months. And less than $30 makes it a pretty affordable failsafe.
 
If the Apex fails on and you have no failsafe it will cook the tank.



The finnex titanium does not have an internal controller. But that is exactly what I want to do. Apex controls temp, this will just go in line set at a higher temp like 82 or something to make sure the heater shuts off if there is an issue with the apex
I have not read or my Apex has not failed yet. Also one can sent up alarm it the heat is to high or the temp prob would have to fail. I have read were even the finnex controller is erratic when trying to maintain a steady temperature:).
 
Interestingly Neptune (Terence) recommend that you do NOT use the Apex as sole heater controller. I use the Ranco (an industrial quality unit) to control one of my finnex heaters, Apex the other. Either getting stuck on cannot cook the tank and one failing will not drop the temp fast enough that I cannot intervene. Chances of both failing at the same time is remote.
 
^ I brought this up recently in Terence's thread and he said to absolutely positively not to use the apex as a primary heater controller.

Check out the BRS video on heaters, I took their suggestion and replaced my Finnex titanium heater with Eheim in conjunction with Apex.

What I'm really going to do is use the finnex as a backup heater and will only turn on in case the Eheim fails. In which its not constantly in use. If you have space in the sump I would suggest this.

I had looked into the Inkbird however the manufacturer themselves said do not use in saltwater applications.

I am following this thread to see what better suggestions arise. I have the same concerns.


Page 76 his post on the 13th: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/g...apex-all-the-time.198797/page-76#post-4108162
 
@JBKReef im curious as to what you found. I had researched inkbird before I purchased it, and only found positives... im not doubting you though, I will pull it out and order a ranco if thats the case.
 
@JBKReef im curious as to what you found. I had researched inkbird before I purchased it, and only found positives... im not doubting you though, I will pull it out and order a ranco if thats the case.

If its been working for you then run with it, what I heard was through a second line comment. It was either a comment made on the BRS reviews or Amazon reviews. It has to do with the temperature probe degrading. I've read some users coat it in silicone or apply another method of keeping the direct contact with the salt.


I found the review in question here, as always with the general public take it with a bucket of salt: https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/Tx1Q1V908M0IPT3/ref=ask_al_aap_hza?_encoding=UTF8&sort=helpful
 
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EJ heaters are excellent (and have the integrated 'calibratable' thermostat). Trouble is that for big systems the 300 watt upper size limit becomes problematic.
 
I have not read or my Apex has not failed yet. Also one can sent up alarm it the heat is to high or the temp prob would have to fail. I have read were even the finnex controller is erratic when trying to maintain a steady temperature:).

If you have the temp set up in apex at 78 and the probe or apex gets stuck reading 77 the heater stays on AND you don't get a notification. Maybe unlikely but after spending all that money on livestock and controller another 50 to have the failsafe seems like an easy choice to me
 
I was using a modified Ranco controller with a Finex titanium heater. The Ranco controller fried itself just outside of the one year warranty. I've gone back to using the thermostat built into heaters. I use the 300 watt Cobalt Neo-therm.
 
If you have the temp set up in apex at 78 and the probe or apex gets stuck reading 77 the heater stays on AND you don't get a notification. Maybe unlikely but after spending all that money on livestock and controller another 50 to have the failsafe seems like an easy choice to me
Just a idea, second probe?
 
I have an Apex and like using it however...
Before I hardwired the ethernet it would occasionally lock up. It was always just comatose but the last time it did not turn the heaters on. There was no alarm since the code was lost; this was quite a few updates ago and the unit has never done anything wrong since turning off WiFi. A second probe would be of no benefit if the unit does not service it.
A fail safe plan is best. I don't really have one to turn the heaters on but the pumps and ambient temp should mitigate that situation.
 
I was using a modified Ranco controller with a Finex titanium heater. The Ranco controller fried itself just outside of the one year warranty. I've gone back to using the thermostat built into heaters. I use the 300 watt Cobalt Neo-therm.

Can I ask what size system you have? I was surprised by the differences in the EJ watts for a tank my size and the finnex ratings for my size. They're almost double each other. I would absolutely go with a Neo-Therm but I did not think they were big enough for my system. (117 Gallon max=93 gallon cube + 24 gallon sump)
 
I bought a cobalt neotherm heater for my upcoming new setup and got the Finnix controller as a backup.

So I’m guessing I set the cobalt for say 78 and the finnix for 80 so if the cobalts fails and sticks on, the finnix will shut the power once the tank goes too hot.
 

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