Heater in fuge?

[AnomMatty]

Any reason why running my heater in the fuge section would be a bad idea? Searched and couldn't find much regarding it, which may mean it's moot - but always feel better getting input.

 

[rhitee93]

That is where I have mine.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Wherever it is, If it is on a temperature controller, then the probe must be in the same compartment, preferably just slightly upstream.

 

[Reef.]

Any reason why running my heater in the fuge section would be a bad idea? Searched and couldn't find much regarding it, which may mean it's moot - but always feel better getting input.

I personally wouldn’t as the fuge doesn’t tend to have a lot of flow, which for a heater, you want a lot of flow around it, not just to heat the tank evenly but for safety.

If your fuge has a lot of flow then no issue.

 

[AnomMatty]

Wherever it is, If it is on a temperature controller, then the probe must be in the same compartment, preferably just slightly upstream.

Other side of a baffle too far upstream? It's about 4-6" upstream in a 20L. I've been playing around with it, but the combination of water level and chamber sizes aren't leaving me tons of options - why it's in the fuge section atm.

Current sump flow is
Inlet > Filter Socks *Baffle* Skimmer Section w/probe *Baffle* Heater/Fuge *Baffle Pair* Return

 

[BeanAnimal]

Other side of a baffle too far upstream?

Yes - in the event of a pump failure, turning pump off for feeding, etc. There is a chance that the probe will call for heat while the heater boils the water in the other chamber, as it is not affecting the probe.

Probe ALWAYS goes with heater. Exception would be heater with on-board thermostat that is set slight above (by touch and positive confirmation, not dial number) just above the controllers set-point. This is best practice as a fail-safe anyway.

For those of you using a controller like a Ranco, Inkbird or other automation... the controller should be turning the heater on and off, not the on-board thermostat. The on-board thermostat is garbage and 100% prone to failure with the primary failure mode being wear due to cycling (metal fatigue) and contact arcing during each cycle.

 

[AnomMatty]

Yes - in the event of a pump failure, turning pump off for feeding, etc. There is a chance that the probe will call for heat while the heater boils the water in the other chamber, as it is not affecting the probe.

Probe ALWAYS goes with heater. Exception would be heater with on-board thermostat that is set slight above (by touch and positive confirmation, not dial number) just above the controllers set-point. This is best practice as a fail-safe anyway.

For those of you using a controller like a Ranco, Inkbird or other automation... the controller should be turning the heater on and off, not the on-board thermostat. The on-board thermostat is garbage and 100% prone to failure with the primary failure mode being wear due to cycling (metal fatigue) and contact arcing during each cycle.

I would think this would stop the heater faster than normal with how they're located currently. The baffle doesn't affect water level (baffle between skimmer/fuge section), and in normal operation the heat from the heater would have to go mostly full cycle to reach the probe, vs backwards 4-6" in standing water under a pump failure. Or by slightly upstream are you referencing something closer to an inch or less?

Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to learn/grasp.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I would think this would stop the heater faster than normal with how they're located currently. The baffle doesn't affect water level (baffle between skimmer/fuge section), and in normal operation the heat from the heater would have to go mostly full cycle to reach the probe, vs backwards 4-6" in standing water under a pump failure. Or by slightly upstream are you referencing something closer to an inch or less?

Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to learn/grasp.

I don't understand what you are asking.

The probe needs to be in the same pool of water as the heater - not separated from it by a piece of glass. If/when the pump is off, if the water between the probe and heater are isolated due to a baffle, then the probe can't read the temperature in the fuge.

So the heater is set at 77F - the pump is OFF (you decided to do maintenance). The temperature of the sump starts to drop (it's a cold day) the probe calls for heat. The heater turns on and starts heating the water in the fuge. The water gets hotter and hotter, but the probe is on the other side of the baffle and the water in that section is not being heated. So the probe doesn't know that the fuge is now 100F --- You kill everything in the fuge, but don't even realize it. You turn the pump back on an hour later (you grabbed a snack during maintenance) and now dump all of that 100F water and dead fauna from the fuge into the tank and scorch your corals and kill 3 fish and make a mess of the tank.

 

[AnomMatty]

I don't understand what you are asking.

The probe needs to be in the same pool of water as the heater - not separated from it by a piece of glass. If/when the pump is off, if the water between the probe and heater are isolated due to a baffle, then the probe can't read the temperature in the fuge.

So the heater is set at 77F - the pump is OFF (you decided to do maintenance). The temperature of the sump starts to drop (it's a cold day) the probe calls for heat. The heater turns on and starts heating the water in the fuge. The water gets hotter and hotter, but the probe is on the other side of the baffle and the water in that section is not being heated. So the probe doesn't know that the fuge is now 100F --- You kill everything in the fuge, but don't even realize it. You turn the pump back on an hour later (you grabbed a snack during maintenance) and now dump all of that 100F water and dead fauna from the fuge into the tank and scorch your corals and kill 3 fish and make a mess of the tank.

The 'baffle' in question is just a division baffle. Not seperating the two sections of water (unless the water were to drop 4-5" under operating level). I was viewing it as the 2 sections aren't disconnected in terms of water (and relative water temp) in any situation other than something to the effect of a massive sump leak, so the probe would still be reading the change in temp.

The baffle in question: