Consider that heaters are probably the single most failure-prone piece of equipment in our tank and the most common point of failure is the thermostat.
Most aquarium heaters use inexpensive bimetal thermostats. A bimetal leaf flexes in response to temperature and touches a metal contact, closing the circuit and turning on the heater. Over time, arcing across this contact leads to the metal pieces fusing together and the thermostat being stuck in the 'on' position, potentially overheating your tank.
The Apex energy bars are controlled by much more durable mechanical (or solid state) relays that are less likely to fail. In the case of the EB832, you an also monitor the current and have it alert you if there is current flowing when the switch should be off.
The best way to configure the system is to set the heater thermostat a degree or two higher than the Apex temp setting. This will leave the heater thermostat in the 'on' position and let the more reliable Apex relays do the switching. Since the heater thermostat is not cycling on and off, there is virtually no wear on it. In the event that the apex fails and the outlet stays on, the heater thermostat will kick in and turn off the heater before catastrophic overheating occurs.
You can, of course do the reverse and have Apex as a backup, but then you are using the less reliable switch as the primary and the more reliable as the backup and you will likely need to replace your heaters more often