And yet your electric bill increases because your tank heaters kick on 3 times as much. Per hour. Per night. Per month. Until June. Forget the electric bill. Who cares. As long as our gas consumption dropped. Theoretically. Only, wait, we didn't consider the curve chart of data calculations pertaining the reheat period every morning. But oh, let me guess, we're betting on the cool off period accounts for the costs of the reheat period. Lol.... I'm done with this nonsense.
Heating a Tank in Cold Climates
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Waterjockey
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Actually, if you read some of the test data, they did take into account everything. Including a 2-something % *decrease* in the electrical portion. Tank heaters are, for the most part, very well insulated.
I can post links to dozens of trials with different buildings, with gas and electrical inputs carefully measured. Obviously where you live/climate influences the amount of savings in energy, but in the vast majority of cases, it's been proven repeatedly in the field that it reduces energy inputs.
Simply sticking your face in Google will give you a wealth of professional, reviewed testing results.
That's it for me. I'm done with this as well. Thank you for your input
Straight from NYSEG.... fluctuation of temp. is progressive. Once a 5° variance is reached, it now becomes detrimental.
Now relate that entire process to the adverse effects of trying to maintain a reef tank. That too, becomes progressive, not only to amount of temperature fluctuation, but water volume and glass thickness variables as well. (Etc., etc., .....etc)
Now relate that entire process to the adverse effects of trying to maintain a reef tank. That too, becomes progressive, not only to amount of temperature fluctuation, but water volume and glass thickness variables as well. (Etc., etc., .....etc)
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Ok.. since this isn't done yet.
The correct answer is that "it depends". A newer or better insulated home may not benefit from dropping and raising temperature. An older or more drafty home will benefit from dropping temperature. Window placement and solar heating will also impact it. There is no cut and dry rule one way or the other.
The correct answer is that "it depends". A newer or better insulated home may not benefit from dropping and raising temperature. An older or more drafty home will benefit from dropping temperature. Window placement and solar heating will also impact it. There is no cut and dry rule one way or the other.
Brew 12, exactly. There are soooo many differentiating variables, not only per house, (even 2 houses built nearly the same and sitting in the same neighborhood), but per wall, that there is no way anybody can give you an accurate answer pertaining your personal house. Only you know your house. I'll give you an example. Was called into a half million dollar house for a drafty outlet. Sure enough, it was definitely drafty. Discovered the draft was created by a 'gapped' base molding. Base molding sitting on a hardwood floor, yet, not touching the floor. Difference in atmospheric pressures, 70° controlled environment interior/ 30° outside, created the draft from the floor and up between the insulative vapor barrier and the drywall, through the gaps around the box, and exiting the faceplate. Lol... apply an equation to that wall!! Replacement windows?... they only fix about 20% of the actual problem. The actual problem is found when you pull the interior molding off of the window frame and stuff it full of insulation. Like I said, .... way too many variables. And that's not mentioning whether the sun beats on that wall or not. Wind blowing. Shaded by a tree. Protected by your camper parked along side that wall, or the camper actually creates a 'wind tunnel' up against the outside of that wall. Yada, yada, yada. WAY too many variables. But when considering a tank? Again, progessive with tank size, you're just converting energy cost, from perhaps a cheaper natural gas consumption(heating your house), to a more expensive electrical consumption( heating your tank).
klp
Active Member
I think it would be very worth it to take down the drywall in your garage, have it spray foamed and then new drywall. It would make your condo much more comfortable and save $$$. I have seen Mike Holmes on DIY network do this time after time with great results. The foam also seals out and gases from below that work their way in. We all want eye candy rather than boring things like foam insulation. Carpeting will do little or nothing to solve your issues as has been mentioned. Good luck! Wish you the best!
Frankyfish
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What im wondering is in a room in the 50's with a tank at 80 degrees could that potentially crack the glass? I know this is a little off topic but I figured where its some what close you may have thought of this as well and came across the answer. I live in Boston which is pretty much the Temps you guys face in Minnesota. Been trying to find a answer but cant seem to find anything.I'm curious what the trade off for cost/efficiency would be to run an aquarium heater hard with room temp in the 50's vs keeping the room temp in the 70's.
Living in MN I would like to let me heat go down into the 50's during the day while I'm at work to save on utilities. However, I'm concerned that will just cause my electricity bill to rocket up with the tank heaters being run so much.
I live in a 800 sq ft condo and have a 10 gallon nano. Tank temp is 78. Current heater is a 25W but I am having to upgrade to a 50W as the 25W is unable to keep the tank at 78 if room temp is below 70.
Anyone have experience with this?
I'm curious what the trade off for cost/efficiency would be to run an aquarium heater hard with room temp in the 50's vs keeping the room temp in the 70's.
Living in MN I would like to let me heat go down into the 50's during the day while I'm at work to save on utilities. However, I'm concerned that will just cause my electricity bill to rocket up with the tank heaters being run so much.
I live in a 800 sq ft condo and have a 10 gallon nano. Tank temp is 78. Current heater is a 25W but I am having to upgrade to a 50W as the 25W is unable to keep the tank at 78 if room temp is below 70.
Anyone have experience with this?
one of the theorys as to why that huge aquarium failed in that German hotel was that they were keeping the lobby cooler due to high energy costs...that being said my 40B is in my attached garage and hasnt exploded yet...takes a 300 w heater to keep up...this tank and the 36 that preceded it have been out there 8 yrs or so...i've since added insulation in the ceiling and run a 4000w electric heater to make it livable out there but there were many years that there was no heat at all....used to have a 30 in my shop in NY and the heat was shut off at night...it was in the bathroom and there was a small electric heater in the room to keep the pipes from freezing ... i was afraid it was too close and would melt the plastic tank frame so basically the tank itself kept the room warm enough that nothing froze up...these obviously are/were all small tanks so i certainly wouldnt say the same would apply to a big tank
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Frankyfish
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I would say that my 32 cube is fine then lol. Thanks for the info.
