Heavy Import/Heavy Export - Need Advice

  • Thread starter Thread starter sanzz18
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So I am decided on adding the fuge. I am going to order everything today or tomorrow. Should I bother doing anything to lower my nutrients until the light and chaeto get here or leave it be for the chaeto?

I see no reason to rush given the values you posted in the first post.
 
I’m curious as to whether or not you considered an ATS for this and if not, why?

just honestly trying to learn. Nothing more
 
My Waterbox 220.6 is approaching 10 months old. Rocks are being covered in coraline and glass is starting to as well. My goal is SPS dominant with some other stuff mixed in where appropriate in the tank. My nitrates and phosphates are not controllable now with your basic 10% water changes. Nitrates are around 25ppm which my goal is no higher then 10-15. Phosphate is around 0.16 to 0.18 which the goal is to keep it under 0.1. I have about 14 fish in the tank with 5 of them being tangs and 1 being a fox face. I like to feed them well (not overfeed), which is something I am not willing to change and sacrifice fish health. I want to get nutrients in check as I approach the 1 year mark and really want to start trying SPS.

My goal is heavy import/heavy export. I have a Reef Octopus Regal 200 INT for skimmer, will be going back to filter socks I think as the Klir 7 fleece roller is inefficient and too finicky with sump water levels/flows.

I know there are many options out there like refugiums, algae reactors, turf scrubbers, bioreactors, carbon dosing, adding biomedia, etc. Since water changes are no longer efficient for nutrient control (will still do 10% changes purely to replenish trace elements and such), I want to hear recommendations on what my next step should be. Thanks!
on my waterbox 130.4 i plumbed and algae scrubber and i have to say that thing works too good at times. I got to the point where i shut them down at certain time periods (controlled by my apex) daily to allow some nutrients for my corals.
 
I see no reason to rush given the values you posted in the first post.
Awesome, thanks for the input. Even with the rise to 0.3ppm phosphage I am good? Just order everything and let the fuge do the work?
I’m curious as to whether or not you considered an ATS for this and if not, why?

just honestly trying to learn. Nothing more
I have considered it. My goal almost as equally important, is to have a place to keep pods and have a safe haven for them.
 
Awesome, thanks for the input. Even with the rise to 0.3ppm phosphage I am good? Just order everything and let the fuge do the work?

I have considered it. My goal almost as equally important, is to have a place to keep pods and have a safe haven for them.

Here are a couple reads regarding phosphates, that I think are worthwhile.


 
Awesome, thanks for the input. Even with the rise to 0.3ppm phosphage I am good? Just order everything and let the fuge do the work?

Good to wait, certainly. :)
 
Last question. I am going to order the Fuge light tomorrow. I was looking at the Neptune Gro. Will this be strong enough to grow chaeto efficiently? It has much lower wattage than most kessils but I heard a lot of good things about it. Thoughts? Other suggestions?
 
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Why not use a DSB in your fuge? A proper DSB will benefit your tank in so many ways. Also, don’t get hung up on preconceived numbers, corals are the ones to tell you where they like it. And once you add some biomass in there, your numbers will change.
 
Why not use a DSB in your fuge? A proper DSB will benefit your tank in so many ways. Also, don’t get hung up on preconceived numbers, corals are the ones to tell you where they like it. And once you add some biomass in there, your numbers will change.
Honestly, just for ease of maintenance in the sump. It isn’t so much that I am getting caught up on numbers. It is more related to seeing a uptrend in those numbers without any true way to keep up with the export side of my tank. I do not have any significant amount of corals yet, so no nutrient uptake there. 10% weekly water changes are not enough to keep my nutrients from rising anymore.
 
Honestly, just for ease of maintenance in the sump. It isn’t so much that I am getting caught up on numbers. It is more related to seeing a uptrend in those numbers without any true way to keep up with the export side of my tank. I do not have any significant amount of corals yet, so no nutrient uptake there. 10% weekly water changes are not enough to keep my nutrients from rising anymore.
Also, PNS Probio does wonders with nutrient control, while benefiting the corals. Combined with Yello Sno, it’s really an efficient way of processing excess nutrients. In the meantime, read up on DSB, especially articles by Ron Shimek.
 
My Waterbox 220.6 is approaching 10 months old. Rocks are being covered in coraline and glass is starting to as well. My goal is SPS dominant with some other stuff mixed in where appropriate in the tank. My nitrates and phosphates are not controllable now with your basic 10% water changes. Nitrates are around 25ppm which my goal is no higher then 10-15. Phosphate is around 0.16 to 0.18 which the goal is to keep it under 0.1. I have about 14 fish in the tank with 5 of them being tangs and 1 being a fox face. I like to feed them well (not overfeed), which is something I am not willing to change and sacrifice fish health. I want to get nutrients in check as I approach the 1 year mark and really want to start trying SPS.

My goal is heavy import/heavy export. I have a Reef Octopus Regal 200 INT for skimmer, will be going back to filter socks I think as the Klir 7 fleece roller is inefficient and too finicky with sump water levels/flows.

I know there are many options out there like refugiums, algae reactors, turf scrubbers, bioreactors, carbon dosing, adding biomedia, etc. Since water changes are no longer efficient for nutrient control (will still do 10% changes purely to replenish trace elements and such), I want to hear recommendations on what my next step should be. Thanks!
My corals are more happy and much better if I don’t use filter sock.
 

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