Help...5ppm ammonia cycling New reef

[Flavio Reis]

expand...

I am using Caribsea Liferock Original in the center and use Dr Tim's one and only it has 2 days and the ammonia is at 5 ppm I am using the marine lab test. Media Matrix in the filter. should wait a few more days for the ammonia to decrease? thanks

 

[OfficeReefer]

Hmm, are you getting any nitrite/nitrate readings?

By chance did you feed the tank with something to decay and start the cycle?

 

[Flavio Reis]

No nitrite or nitrate reading. Just some fish food...

 

[Flavio Reis]

Should I wait for the ammonia to go down or do a 75% water tank change?

 

[FSP]

I'd just wait.

What's with the Evolution Aqua and Biomature bottles?

 

[Flavio Reis]

I'm using it to reduce ammonia...Do you advise me to wait and not change the water?

 

[brandon429]

Flavio

I gave you clear, clear instructions on a different post how to deal with that

it was unclear?

 

[brandon429]

again stated, no need for multi threads

do a 100% water change, your cycle is fine. You can add fish after you change out your wastewater. It's that simple. I'm saving you from reading a forty page microbiology thread with that summary, do consider it's simplicity

do a 100% water change

add fish

do not report test levels to us using non digital gear, we don't need it

simply follow the instructions here


change all your water, don't test for anything, add fish, post a pic in a couple days of the fish doing fine, and post no test readings at all. we don't accept your stated test levels as accurate. it's not a seneye machine you're testing with or you wouldn't have a cycle concern. nobody's reef is at 5 ppm. relaying incorrect ammonia readings is 99% of the recurring problem in your multi posts. you're doing a water change to export any wastewater

new water you put in will not be spiked in ammonia as you've done to this water

the bacteria are fed, locked in place, your test kit isnt able to deal with the blast of ammonia you put in. the cycle isn't broken. its done. I have potentially just overcomplicated the matter for you, its why in the first thread I tried to leave it at


do a 100% water change


your cycle is done

don't test and report anything, just add fish after the water change.

 

[Dave1993]

Can you not get any established rock from lfs? i think bottled bac is snake oil my test was reading off the charts i added turbo start 900 and fritz 9 would not move ammonia i added some rock from my 3 year old tank the next day it was reading 0

 

[Flavio Reis]

I'm going to change the Water... after the change I need to add some product like Dr. tim's one and only? thanks for the informations

 

[Flavio Reis]

Can you not get any established rock from lfs? i think bottled bac is snake oil my test was reading off the charts i added turbo start 900 and fritz 9 would not move ammonia i added some rock from my 3 year old tank the next day it was reading 0

I bought this Caribsea Liferock...

 

[Dave1993]

I bought this Caribsea Liferock...

yea that rock is terrible live rock from the ocean is best

 

[Flavio Reis]

yea that rock is terrible live rock from the ocean is best

It's definitely better but I couldn't find it to buy.

 

[FSP]

The Caribsea rock is fine for what it is (decoration/biomedia). Ocean rock is great, and I'd encourage you to explore that option later for reasons beyond ammonia processing, but your current situation is fine.

5ppm is fine, Dr. Tim's is already in the tank, and if it's going to do something, it will. If it was a bad batch, it will still be fine in a few weeks anyway. I don't think changing water or really doing anything at this point other than being patient will help without spending more money.

I'd let it sit at ~2 to 5 ppm ammonia (exact number isn't too important) until it starts going down. Dose ammonia or ghost feed to get it back up. Once a day is fine when it starts getting needy. Continue dosing/feeding when nitrites start showing up. Keep at it until the tank can bounce from a full dose/ghost feeding to 0 0 ammonia nitrite in 24h. Then, change as much water as you can to ditch the nitrates. Unless the Dr. Tim's stuff wakes up and starts doing magic, this whole process can take a few weeks. Just be patient.

 

[Flavio Reis]

A rocha Caribsea é boa para o que é (decoração/biomídia). A rocha oceânica é ótima, e eu o encorajaria a explorar essa opção mais tarde por motivos além do processamento de amônia, mas sua situação atual é boa.

5ppm está bom, Dr. Tim já está no tanque, e se vai fazer alguma coisa, vai. Se foi um lote ruim, ainda estará bem em algumas semanas. Não acho que trocar a água ou realmente fazer qualquer coisa neste momento além de ser paciente ajudará sem gastar mais dinheiro.

Eu o deixaria em ~ 2 a 5 ppm de amônia (o número exato não é muito importante) até que comece a diminuir. Dose amônia ou alimentação fantasma para recuperá-lo. Uma vez por dia está bom quando começa a ficar carente. Continue a dosagem/alimentação quando os nitritos começarem a aparecer. Continue assim até que o tanque possa pular de uma dose completa/alimentação fantasma para 0 0 nitrito de amônia em 24h. Em seguida, troque o máximo de água possível para eliminar os nitratos. A menos que o material do Dr. Tim acorde e comece a fazer mágica, todo esse processo pode levar algumas semanas. Apenas seja pa

Thank you for your help. A doubt if I change the water would it kill the bacteria that are in the aquarium? It's been two weeks and the ammonia doesn't want to go down...

 

[Flavio Reis]

The Caribsea rock is fine for what it is (decoration/biomedia). Ocean rock is great, and I'd encourage you to explore that option later for reasons beyond ammonia processing, but your current situation is fine.

5ppm is fine, Dr. Tim's is already in the tank, and if it's going to do something, it will. If it was a bad batch, it will still be fine in a few weeks anyway. I don't think changing water or really doing anything at this point other than being patient will help without spending more money.

I'd let it sit at ~2 to 5 ppm ammonia (exact number isn't too important) until it starts going down. Dose ammonia or ghost feed to get it back up. Once a day is fine when it starts getting needy. Continue dosing/feeding when nitrites start showing up. Keep at it until the tank can bounce from a full dose/ghost feeding to 0 0 ammonia nitrite in 24h. Then, change as much water as you can to ditch the nitrates. Unless the Dr. Tim's stuff wakes up and starts doing magic, this whole process can take a few weeks. Just be patient.

Would it further delay the cycling of the aquarium?

 

[FSP]

A water change won't kill anything, but I don't see what it would accomplish. You need the ammonia.

 

[Flavio Reis]

A water change won't kill anything, but I don't see what it would accomplish. You need the ammonia.

This would reduce the ammonia to 2 ppm. They said in other threads that if the ammonia is too high, the bacteria cannot eliminate the ammonia. Sorry for the many questions this is my first nano Reef.

 

[FSP]

I don't agree at all with the "too high" thing, but 2 ppm is fine.

 

[Flavio Reis]

I don't agree at all with the "too high" thing, but 2 ppm is fine.

Thanks