Help adding rails/legs to DIY stand

[wickette]

On version 2.1 of my DIY stand. I want to elevate it so its not flush on the ground (and to add height). I'm sure this has been covered but I'm not finding it.

I'm adding 2x4 legs/rails. Will 3 strips be enough (left/right/middle)?

How do I fasten them? I think glue may fail over time and screw may compromise the wood (since its going into the 1.5" side).

Finishing nails maybe?

 

[virtual reality]

I think it would be easier to add a couple layers of plywood to the top if you want more height.

 

[BornHandy]

Don't underestimate the power of wood glue. I use titebond 3, and can tell you that it's waterproof, food grade (can be used on cutting boards) and if the wood grain is long grain to long grain, you will usually break the wood somewhere else before you break the glue joint.

If the wood is long grain to long grain at the glue joint , use a liberal application of titebond 3. As a back-up, use wood screws to hold it while the glue sets. That way, if for some reason, your glue joint was not super tight, the screws will hold it in place.

Just in case you don't know what long grain is, if you look at the end of a 2x4, you are looking at end grain. If you are looking at the face of a 2x4 or the face of plywood, you are looking at the long grain. If you glued two ends of a 2x4 together with glue, that joint is easy to break. If you glue two faces of a 2x4 together, the joint has plenty of glue, and the faces had tight contact while the glue set, you are never getting that back apart.

If it would make you sleep better at night, test it out on a bit of scrap, and I am sure you will be surprised. Just be sure you let it cure completely before you stress test it.

 

[Peace River]

On version 2.1 of my DIY stand. I want to elevate it so its not flush on the ground (and to add height). I'm sure this has been covered but I'm not finding it.

I'm adding 2x4 legs/rails. Will 3 strips be enough (left/right/middle)?

How do I fasten them? I think glue may fail over time and screw may compromise the wood (since its going into the 1.5" side).

Finishing nails maybe?

I would use wood screws. Drill slowly once the screw head gets near the surface so that you don’t bury the screw and split out the end. You likely will have some scrap once you cut your pieces to length so you can practice with the scraps if your not comfortable. Good luck!

 

[wickette]

The bottom of the frame is 1.3" thick (2x4 after sanding/planing), Outer threads of a wood screw is over 0.16". Rule for screws in wood construction is at least 5x the screw diameter from the edge. Any screw long enough is too thick.

I think it would be easier to add a couple layers of plywood to the top if you want more height.

2 reasons why I need it at the bottom.
1)My cat will pee on the stand at some point, If the bottom is lifted I wont have a pool of urine eating away at the floor.
2) I made the stand for a 20g sump, changed to a 29g, Ive got 4.5" of clearance above the sump, The legs will give me 6"

Don't underestimate the power of wood glue. I use titebond 3, and can tell you that it's waterproof, food grade (can be used on cutting boards) and if the wood grain is long grain to long grain, you will usually break the wood somewhere else before you break the glue joint.

The glue will hold but will the wood split just above/bellow the glued joint? Im probably over thinking it, its hard to visualize what a 1000 lbs aquarium can do over several years. If it was holding a 40lbs tv I would (and have) just used a bead of generic wood glue.

I think it would be easier to add a couple layers of plywood to the top if you want more height.

It would be easier if I wasn't a dumb butt and realized the topper + cross beams make the height inside the cabinet 5" less than the actual height.

I need to raise the stand to have more clearance above the sump (which has its own unattached mini stand) adding to the top wont help.

 

[BornHandy]

Looking at your picture, your stand would sit on top of the 2x4's, so you don't really need that much strength. You just need something to keep the boards from working their way out somehow. Wood glue is going to have plenty of strength. If nothing else, get a 2x8 and use that. Wider, so more peace of mind.

As for screws, there are plenty of options. I like HeadLOC brand, but there are others. You can get them at the big box hardware stores, or online. They are specifically made for 2-by construction, and are a direct replacement for lag bolts. I have seen them up to 10 inches, and down to 3 1/2. Surely, one of those would solve your problem.

Lastly, you could take that cross member on the bottom out entirely (the stand will do just fine without it), or just lay it flat to pick up a little more clearance.

 

[wickette]

Looking at your picture, your stand would sit on top of the 2x4's, so you don't really need that much strength. You just need something to keep the boards from working their way out somehow.

Would it be better to not attach it at all? Just sit it on the beams, it wont break if its not attached, wood will shift to whatever shape it needs.

Lastly, you could take that cross member on the bottom out entirely (the stand will do just fine without it), or just lay it flat to pick up a little more clearance.

Its actually upside down, photo is just to show what I'm talking about.

 

[BornHandy]

Would it be better to not attach it at all? Just sit it on the beams, it wont break if its not attached, wood will shift to whatever shape it needs.

Oh, I see. Yeah, I say it could just sit on the wood. If you do it that way, i might do a wider board. Maybe a 2x6 or even a 2x8.