Help growing cheato!

Bigbadfishy

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I have a kessil h80 and a 12x12 refugium and No3 around 7.5 and have tried everything and am not getting good growth. Im thinking I need different light or more lights. The cheato is not dying just not growing at a detectable level over 4 months. I have 2 Mars black boxes thinking of using one of them to substitute lighting. Has anyone used these for growing cheato?
 
Have you tried putting the light directly over the water? Like 1 inch or less? I'm not sure if that's bad for the Kessil specifically but the distance light travels hugely impacts the intensity the plant gets.
 
My chaeto did not grow for a while after I purchased, even thought I needed to buy some more. It took off when I placed my extra Current USA 18 inch LED. My chaeto is so dense now, it filled up the entire section of the sump. Current USA is cheap, try it.
 
I'm using the h80 over my sump. My cheato did not grow for a few months as you are describing. I left it alone and didn't worry about it. A couple of months after that it's taken over the whole fuge space and I had to toss half of it. The h80 works. I think cheato doesn't grow as fast as people make it seem so slow growth is normal. Think of it as a plant outside, just because you dump fertilizer on it doesn't mean it's going to sprout up 2 feet over night. As long as it's not dying, it's growing.
On a side note, my h80 is 8 inches above the water in my sump turned up filled power on the grow setting. I see coraline algae growing in my sump, on my biobricks and in my skimmer on the side that faces the light. I have to pull it every month and clean it.
 
Hey, I had this problem too. A expensive light isn’t the answer. A simple led grow bulb, and reflecting dome. Total $15.00. The dome set up is already done for you at Lowe’s or Home Depot, and it has a clamp for attachment. The light sits over my refuge. Macro is dense. Be sure to run your refuge light during dark hours, 24/7 isn’t the answer. My refuge light goes on an hour before tank light turns off and an hour after tank light come on.
 
Last edited:
I would add this...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-LED-Fl...208449&hash=item3fa2656263:g:pPUAAOSwqYhZza6b
or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-LED-Flood-Light-IP65-Waterproof-Outdoor-Lamp-White-Light-6000-6500k-90-260V/153236606002?var=&hash=item23ad9d0c32&enc=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&checksum=15323660600269274f34047546b6ad9760221ff9b04c

Second 6500k is traditional and the 5000k has been debated as being better, but I think either would be fine.

What schedule do you run your lights?

Run this light 24x7 and both when your tank lights are off.
 
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Ok tuning h80 2 hours before tank lights shut off and when they are off.
 
Since I already have the mars lights should I try them or just go with the flood light? Thank everyone for the input!
 
I feed very little and do weekly water changes but I’m over water changes.

Both of which probably compounds the lack of chaeto growth. I actually took my algae scubber offline because it was too efficient and I had to feed the tank like crazy to keep it running smoothly. What happened is it stripped phosphates completely out of my tank and brought nitrates down to under 2ppm. I took note of the issue when my corals started turning pale. I ended up throwing some chaeto in my sump instead with a 120w equivalent 5k cree led bulb, removed the skimmer too as an experiment since aeration is a non-issue in my system and the tank has been holding steady at 5ppm nitrates. I’m not even bothering with testing phosphates as the display is algae-free, the chaeto is growing and everything else is looking healthy. I’m feeding the equivalent of three food cubes daily on a 120 gallon system. For maintenance, I typically just turkey baster the sand twice a month and change out the filter sock the next day. I’m going on 8 months with no water changes. The key here is that things do get easier as you add more coral to your tank and things mature and start using nutrients more. But for now, instead of chasing low nutrient numbers, feed your tank and let things grow so they can develop that need for increased nutrients. Put a strong light (home depot is a proven source for the best reefing gear in this case) over your macro algae and let it do what it does best. Don’t worry about having 5 or even 10ppm nitrates. It’s the ratio of nitrates to phosphates and how they relate to calcification that counts and is something chaeto growth will do a lot to balance. Lastly, watch what’s happening in your display. If your corals are colorful & growing and you don’t have hair algae growing on stuff, don’t stress. Just keep checking alk/cal/mg and trimming chaeto every so often. Lastly, don’t do things that aren’t actually necessary. This includes the “10% weekly water change” just because it is such a common practice.
 
Both of which probably compounds the lack of chaeto growth. I actually took my algae scubber offline because it was too efficient and I had to feed the tank like crazy to keep it running smoothly. What happened is it stripped phosphates completely out of my tank and brought nitrates down to under 2ppm. I took note of the issue when my corals started turning pale. I ended up throwing some chaeto in my sump instead with a 120w equivalent 5k cree led bulb, removed the skimmer too as an experiment since aeration is a non-issue in my system and the tank has been holding steady at 5ppm nitrates. I’m not even bothering with testing phosphates as the display is algae-free, the chaeto is growing and everything else is looking healthy. I’m feeding the equivalent of three food cubes daily on a 120 gallon system. For maintenance, I typically just turkey baster the sand twice a month and change out the filter sock the next day. I’m going on 8 months with no water changes. The key here is that things do get easier as you add more coral to your tank and things mature and start using nutrients more. But for now, instead of chasing low nutrient numbers, feed your tank and let things grow so they can develop that need for increased nutrients. Put a strong light (home depot is a proven source for the best reefing gear in this case) over your macro algae and let it do what it does best. Don’t worry about having 5 or even 10ppm nitrates. It’s the ratio of nitrates to phosphates and how they relate to calcification that counts and is something chaeto growth will do a lot to balance. Lastly, watch what’s happening in your display. If your corals are colorful & growing and you don’t have hair algae growing on stuff, don’t stress. Just keep checking alk/cal/mg and trimming chaeto every so often. Lastly, don’t do things that aren’t actually necessary. This includes the “10% weekly water change” just because it is such a common practice.

Reef Messiah with the Good Word
 
Both of which probably compounds the lack of chaeto growth. I actually took my algae scubber offline because it was too efficient and I had to feed the tank like crazy to keep it running smoothly. What happened is it stripped phosphates completely out of my tank and brought nitrates down to under 2ppm. I took note of the issue when my corals started turning pale. I ended up throwing some chaeto in my sump instead with a 120w equivalent 5k cree led bulb, removed the skimmer too as an experiment since aeration is a non-issue in my system and the tank has been holding steady at 5ppm nitrates. I’m not even bothering with testing phosphates as the display is algae-free, the chaeto is growing and everything else is looking healthy. I’m feeding the equivalent of three food cubes daily on a 120 gallon system. For maintenance, I typically just turkey baster the sand twice a month and change out the filter sock the next day. I’m going on 8 months with no water changes. The key here is that things do get easier as you add more coral to your tank and things mature and start using nutrients more. But for now, instead of chasing low nutrient numbers, feed your tank and let things grow so they can develop that need for increased nutrients. Put a strong light (home depot is a proven source for the best reefing gear in this case) over your macro algae and let it do what it does best. Don’t worry about having 5 or even 10ppm nitrates. It’s the ratio of nitrates to phosphates and how they relate to calcification that counts and is something chaeto growth will do a lot to balance. Lastly, watch what’s happening in your display. If your corals are colorful & growing and you don’t have hair algae growing on stuff, don’t stress. Just keep checking alk/cal/mg and trimming chaeto every so often. Lastly, don’t do things that aren’t actually necessary. This includes the “10% weekly water change” just because it is such a common practice.

Thank you might just have need to for someone to say this. Yes my display is looking really good and over the last 3 weeks growth is awesome and everything is coloring up really well. Maybe letting my no3 and po4 creep up just a hair will let everything grow and keep a eye on what is happing rather then chase numbers.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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