Help ID nuisance algae

[biswajitdey13]

I need help in identifying this algae or bacteria in my tank. Are these Cyanobacteria? I have these for about last 2 weeks. They reduce to some extent during the light off period and get very dark with more light. None of my tank inhabitants are apparently impacted. These are only in my sand and not on the rocks.

Tank Parameters:

Some photos I took:

Tank videos & Microscope view (youtube video links):

video1
video2
video3
video4
video5
video6
video7
video8
video9

 

[TX_REEF]

Have similar algae on my sand occasionally, following to see what experts say

 

[biswajitdey13]

And I just found my orchid dottyback dead. She looked normal when I checked her last time around the same time when I started this post.

 

[Derrick0580]

Cyano bacteria, from excess nutrients and lack of flow.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I need help in identifying this algae or bacteria in my tank. Are these Cyanobacteria? I have these for about last 2 weeks. They reduce to some extent during the light off period and get very dark with more light. None of my tank inhabitants are apparently impacted. These are only in my sand and not on the rocks.

Tank Parameters:

Some photos I took:

Tank videos & Microscope view (youtube video links):

video1
video2
video3
video4
video5
video6
video7
video8
video9

This is cyano bacteria and not too bad. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development
Add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

If it gets worse, I then recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

 

[biswajitdey13]

Cyano bacteria, from excess nutrients and lack of flow.

Thanks! Let me work on those!

 

[biswajitdey13]

This is cyano bacteria and not too bad. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development
Add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

If it gets worse, I then recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

Thanks for responding. I was initially thinking these to be dino and hence I was trying to wait it out.

- I do not have a protein skimmer actually. I just have a hob filter(seachem tidal 110) for the 36 tank and no sump. So that may not be a contributing factor.

- I am not sure if Overstocking is an issue as I only have a pair of clown fishes and had one Orchid dotty-back that just died. Also there is small clean up crew and a combination of soft and lps corals. On the other hand, overfeeding might be an issue. It’s a new tank and it’s difficult to estimate feeding size for a newbie. I’ll have to try to put a check on this.

- There is no live rock in my tank.

- I do a 10% water change weekly. Should I do a larger volume?

- I use RODI water.

- Flow is something that I might need to increase. I just have one Jebao ow-25 wavemaker running at 40%. I am increasing it to 80% tonight and planning to get another one for the tank to make the master slave pair work from both ends.

I am still not sure how my orchid dottyback died. As far as I understand, cyano does not kill a fish usually.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thanks for responding. I was initially thinking these to be dino and hence I was trying to wait it out.

- I do not have a protein skimmer actually. I just have a hob filter(seachem tidal 110) for the 36 tank and no sump. So that may not be a contributing factor.

- I am not sure if Overstocking is an issue as I only have a pair of clown fishes and had one Orchid dotty-back that just died. Also there is small clean up crew and a combination of soft and lps corals. On the other hand, overfeeding might be an issue. It’s a new tank and it’s difficult to estimate feeding size for a newbie. I’ll have to try to put a check on this.

- There is no live rock in my tank.

- I do a 10% water change weekly. Should I do a larger volume?

- I use RODI water.

- Flow is something that I might need to increase. I just have one Jebao ow-25 wavemaker running at 40%. I am increasing it to 80% tonight and planning to get another one for the tank to make the master slave pair work from both ends.

I am still not sure how my orchid dottyback died. As far as I understand, cyano does not kill a fish usually.

Can be a number of things on dottyback without seeing video such as toxins, aggression, tank age, injury as examples.