Help ID please

Squadir

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Hey guys can u help me I'd this plz? Pics aren't the best but its what I got Lol....
IMG_20160512_193329.jpg
IMG_20160512_193258.jpg
 
Hmmm I was thinking bryopsis for some reason.... Wasted half gallon tech-m.....
I tried soaking a rock with some of this algae that had some zoas on it for 5-10 mins in 3% peroxide and even though it died off it just grew straight back.... The zoas were fine BTW just a little annoyed for a day.
Any ideas on getting rid of it? I manually remove all that I can but it grows back in a hurry and is spreading like crazy. Strange thing is no3 and po4 are undetectable.... No idea what us fueling the growth. I even cut down on feedings drastically.
 
Get it out before it spreads. Take out the rocks, break off the frags! Drastic, but you want to get that out before it takes a stronger hold!
 
Lighting? Imy not sure if you put a spotlight on them for the pic but if that's how lit up they are that could be it. As the light source is only on them I figured it was for the pic itself.
 
http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/373326-beating-bryopsis/

Your peroxide needed to be applied to clean, not invaded surfaces as above

Using any creative means, you scrape clean the holdfast areas outside the tank totally free of all target. Then you apply peroxide to the area you rasped clean. If you have growth directly on a coral, save that for detailing last and clean the areas you can we have non damaging ways to fix target corals with growths

No known method beats that one above. You don't have nutrient issues or those tufts would cover all surfaces. They inhabit the surfaces where only top growth has been killed, easily regrowing from the holdfasts back up. Deal with the holdfasts, win the battle.
 
look how clean your sandbed is, and how the rocks are very nice but in sparse patches the algae grows

That's a balanced tank, not an imbalanced tank, the algae was simply allowed to seat into place and show you it's holdfast rebound abilities


That's what feeds parrotfish in the wild...on totally healthy reefs with no nutrient issues. You do not have to begin starving your tank, or waiting much past twenty mins to be totally free of that growth. You need a small metal tool or a kitchen knife point, work in tiny little digging scrapes and it won't even look different when you are done it w just have much less growback

Still, some roots w be missed and require target work but not much.
 
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Lighting? Imy not sure if you put a spotlight on them for the pic but if that's how lit up they are that could be it. As the light source is only on them I figured it was for the pic itself.

yeah I used a flashlight to get a better pic.

@brandon429 those rocks are at the base of one of my main structures which is epoxied together with quite a few corals on it unfortunately, to remove that will definitely cause damage to my colonies :(
you have any in tank treatments that may work?
btw does it look like regular hair algae to you or bryopsis?
 
:) wanna be the first underwater rasp tester

this method as thorough as it is, sure is hard to employ on large tanks agreed. but, some of those spots are easily tested we show with a rock that could be scraped underwater, siphon out the sprouts with an attached siphon tubing in some creative way (kitchen knife with tubing electrical taped around the handle, tube is near scraping point) then you can use a syringe to literally slowly inject Kent Mg directly across the *cleaned areas* all done underwater with pumps off. in our big peroxide thread, we show users building strange injection devices using medicine bottles and tubing, making little domes you set on a target under water (and for us, the cleaned areas now that we've expanded to that mode, even our old mode was leaving an invader in place kinda breaking the rule of ultimate exclusion) and you can hit your cleaned areas underwater that way.
 
right now someone is fuming: this guys telling him to steak stab his delicate reef heh.

we know there are myriad water dosers that may hit your target just fine, rasping nothing...heck 90% of our peroxide threads were about dosing something to the water to zap a target, people w gravitate to that mode first for obvious work saving reasons. but, if you have a noncompliant strain, that's where many were left simply repeating nonworking modes (growback) and that's where creative rasping seals the deal, just about options and being able to do small tests first. somewhere in your tank, a removable rock exists for you to test scrape outside, nothing wrong with hitting what you can. any forced removal of the target makes for less self-feeding mass in the tank.
 
thanks for the advice, i'll try to make up some sort of mechanism to scrape and siphon at the same time.
so you are recommending Tech-m to hit it with after rasping and not peroxide?
 
both, even with fire counts (a windproof grill lighter, one of my utube vids shows fire burning red algae nicely)

if you did all three, then you must be very serious about winning in that exact spot ~ there is no amnt too much or too creative or too harsh, for that one test spot.

aware how crazy this sounds lol many would take a calmer approach. every algae ruined tank we ever saw had a phase like yours where tufts were easy to get out but were left in...it seems to me the most thorough response is the only justified use of time in hindsight.

after so many wrecked tank threads am now reduced to pure overpowering destruction of algae. others take a calmer mode.

the mechanism I found was this: its lawn mowing (which gets growback weekly) vs digging up the plant by the root then burning the spot with kerosene and roundup

the fact you gouge-remove the holdfast/growback structures is the real winning act, nature does this via parrotfish and hawksbills and the raspers of the reef.... the chem cheat we use on the cleaned areas is just for cleanup of missed holdfasts, so tech m works, peroxide 3%, peroxide 35% which is what I use (never playing around lol always overdone and an old reef results from that) or even fire burning the rock to kill the leftovers. of them, I find 35% peroxide to be the best but 3% is ok, Tech M about equal actually to 3% as a simple external spot treat.

the reason we found out that applying the Tech M works is because its simply amplifying whatever mechanism it has that makes it work at 1500 ppm as a tank water solution. imagine its power full on...

so, this method is heavy on external work, not practical for all setups. but its the clincher, anyone with a true risk invasion who wants the upper hand can test rock a noncommittal area, and we think that will work out so well it would be worth it to expand the effort to other accessible areas. the heart of our method is get mean, but actually don't do anything to the water table, don't get mean to the non targets.

just my take :)
B
 
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