Help identify this algae - not spirulina (we think)

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foozed

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Hi All. We’ve had cyano (specifically spirulina) in the past (2x in a year) and both times we used the peroxide test to identify it and used chemiclean successfully to wipe it out.

We’ve had another outbreak and same test, same treatment but it had no effect on it.
Maybe I made it bubble some but it doesn’t appear to have reduced it at all.

As to why I’ve had the outbreak.... who knows.
A month ago these things occurred so could be any combo.
I changed out my wavs for maxspects.
I changed my alkalinity from redsea to BRS.
We added a sand-sifting goby who’s made a mess of my tank... cleaned the **** out of the same but my tanks always sandy now.

Anyway some pics. Please help however you can.
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Yep I’m gonna agree , I think it’s Dino’s too !!
I beat my Dino’s dosing peroxide , but there are many strains of Dino’s , so I would take a sample too a lFS with a microscope and they should be able too tell you which strain it is ..
 
What are your no3 and po4 at Dino’s usually happen when these two have bottomed out for a while ..
 
What kind of light are you using and how long is the white spectrum and intensity?
 
What are your no3 and po4 at Dino’s usually happen when these two have bottomed out for a while ..

Tank had been doin great for so long so haven’t measured... in months.

Just measured and both no3 and po4 are 0.
 
What kind of light are you using and how long is the white spectrum and intensity?

I’ve got 3 hydra AI52’s

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Whites at 30% right now but you can see not much higher during the day.
 
My advice , add bacteria boost .. and don’t clean your glass for a few weeks , let the other algae get a hold so it can out compete the Dino’s , also raise your no3 0-5 ppm and 0.03 -0.08 .. also try too syphon as much out as you can each day ..
 
@Jason mack Do you know which dinos you had that were eliminated with peroxide?

Tank had been doin great for so long so haven’t measured... in months.

Just measured and both no3 and po4 are 0.
Stable and consistent N and P numbers should do it. N 5-10 P 0.05 - 0.10. Again stable and consistent. Hardware store stump remover or sodium nitrate for.. nitrate. Potassium Phosphate in the form of seachems phosphorus or any other will work. We found that dinos get worse before they get better doing the nutrient route. Estimated time of removal will take 1 month, roughly. UV sterilizer will boost the eradication.
 
Supplies ordered. Thanks for all the feedback! I was thinking about what may have caused this.. Shelby had done a better job of testing and logging the results in apex and our no3 and po4 have been zero for well over 6 months.
In addition to the other changes I mentioned In the opening post, there were 2 more things hat have never occurred.
I vacuumed the sump completely free of all detritus, and we scraped ALL of the corraline from the back glass which was almost solid purple.
Shelby was coral feeding every Friday with a mix of reef energy and roids but stopped when we saw some algae growing.
I believe all of these things contributed to the imbalance.
 
@Jason mack Do you know which dinos you had that were eliminated with peroxide?


Stable and consistent N and P numbers should do it. N 5-10 P 0.05 - 0.10. Again stable and consistent. Hardware store stump remover or sodium nitrate for.. nitrate. Potassium Phosphate in the form of seachems phosphorus or any other will work. We found that dinos get worse before they get better doing the nutrient route. Estimated time of removal will take 1 month, roughly. UV sterilizer will boost the eradication.
I’m afraid I don’t know the name , but my local lFS did look under a microscope for me and confirmed it was Dino’s they were tick tak shape if that helps !!
 

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