5. What would be your recommended values for NO3 in my tank?
Guys, I want to hear all the suggestions you have.
First, I would like to take this opportunity to make it clear that I was not disagreeing with what others have told you but rather was ADDING suggestions to the good information that has already been said.
In retrospect, I probably should have left out what I mentioned about nitrate test kits, not that that is not important, but there are many more important factors to discuss. Since I mentioned test kits, I should have put more emphasis on Alkalinity kits since they show the greatest variability and perhaps have the greatest importance. Some will say the absolute value isn't as important as stability. Alk stability is definitely VERY important, but if your reading is stable BUT off, you may be maintaining an alkalinity at 7.6 when you think it is 8.0. (I could write a whole lot more about kits but won't right now). I'll just say that for a new tank or one having problems, an Alk of around 8.0 is what I would recommend, rather than a higher level, and use 2 or 3 kits to help decide on an absolute value. (Hanna checker is good IMO but ONLY IF you take immaculate care of the vials, including rinsing the outside with RO/DI and drying with a microfiber clothe before use).
But since you asked about NO3 levels, the answer is vague. Many tanks do well at different levels, ranging from perhaps 2 - 25 (or higher). I like 5-10. But nitrates are probably not your problem.
I mentioned pH because nobody asked you about it and since you didn't mention it I guessed that you don't measure it (which is OK). A lot of reefers don't measure it, including myself before I got a GHL Controller. (But now, I won't live without a pH probe). pH liquid kits aren't accurate and pH probes are a pain to maintain and to some, expensive. It is well known that a pH of 8.2-8.4 is more desirable than 7.8-8.0. Although many may be doing fine with 7.8-8.0, it could be that if YOU are in this range, along with other variables that aren't ideal, it could be that simply raising the pH to the more desirable range may be enough to allow your corals to survive. AND, I would bet anything that your pH is probably not in the upper range (unless your house has open windows 24/7). My suggestion of running an air pipe to a window WILL raise your pH. (No kit or probe is essential). Of course there may be some other serious underlying problem (hence, my suggestion for ICP test) in which case the increased pH may not be a "cure-all." But, in the long run, after your problem is solved, the higher pH can only help to improve growth (and health).
If you are interested in suggestions as to how to plumb to a window, I can try to help.
You seemed a little reluctant to take my advice about adding coral food/nutrients (other than PO4 and NO3). I've told this valuable story many times: It may have been 20 years ago when I had a large frag tank high on a platform behind my 500 gal tank. All the frags were brown. I started using ZeoVit additives where I would just reach up and add drops into the frag tank. To look into the tank I had to climb 2 steps but because I was going through a hectic time, I didn't look into the tank for about 3 weeks....I just added the drops. Finally, when I did climb the steps and look in, 3 weeks later, I saw colors I never saw before: reds, blues, purples, yellows! Now, of course, 20 years ago, the knowledge and technology wasn't what it is today so maybe these additives back then were the "missing link" where today they may not be?? But still, I have been using many ZeoVit additives ever since. FWIW, my recommended ZeoVit additives to start with are: Coral Vitalizer; Amino Acids; Sponge Power; Pohls Xtra.
Hope this helps.
Jim
Reefing 50+ yrs; SPS 25+ yrs; (see my "Bio" if you would like)
I wish you luck with your new acquisitions, particularly the birdsnest.
