help me calculate head Height.

[dlichtii]

Can some help me calculate head height and tell me if a single Sicce ADC 3.0 (800GPH Max) is sufficient? I am struggling with this.

I want to start off with one pump initially then add another for redundancy but now i am not sure if it will handle it. the return lines are in blue and i want to use all LR 90s. The Piping is 3/4" but i could increase to 1". my Drains are 1" so i was trying to size down. its 40 gallons total so i really only need 120gph turnover but i want to run a few other things off of the return line if i can.

 

[Mickey]

Try this calculator. https://www.freecalc.com/fricfram.htm

 

[DeniseAndy]

I always used the method below as an estimate before actual decisions. Use an actual calculator like above for building. My guide was more planning estimates.

Every foot vertical is a foot, every turn is a foot (90s, 45s), every horizontal foot a foot. Not super accurate, but better than nothing to estimate. Also, any ball valves or check valves or such adds to it too.

 

[dlichtii]

Try this calculator. https://www.freecalc.com/fricfram.htm

I got my butt kicked by this calculator or i severly under estimated head height

 

[dlichtii]

I always used the method below as an estimate before actual decisions. Use an actual calculator like above for building. My guide was more planning estimates.

Every foot vertical is a foot, every turn is a foot (90s, 45s), every horizontal foot a foot. Not super accurate, but better than nothing to estimate. Also, any ball valves or check valves or such adds to it too.

If i do that then I definitely need a bigger pump or two of them

 

[Mickey]

Here's another link from BRS that discussed how to calculate. It might be more helpfpul. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/content/post/md-2020-11-how-to-size-a-return-pump

Don't forget that by splitting your return line you're only getting half the flow (or less) to each outlet into the tank. If you're starting with 1 inch return lines, then splitting halfway into two 1 inch lines you're going to lose a lot.

 

[dlichtii]

Here's another link from BRS that discussed how to calculate. It might be more helpfpul. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/content/post/md-2020-11-how-to-size-a-return-pump

Don't forget that by splitting your return line you're only getting half the flow (or less) to each outlet into the tank. If you're starting with 1 inch return lines, then splitting halfway into two 1 inch lines you're going to lose a lot.

Hmm I'll have to think about that. i would think the pump/pumps would catch up. I don't know, this is making me crazy lol. I thought parallel made the most sense but maybe I'll see about running them on individual lines.

 

[dlichtii]

Hmm I'll have to think about that. i would think the pump/pumps would catch up. I don't know, this is making me crazy lol. I thought parallel made the most sense but maybe I'll see about running them on individual lines.

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics Verified Sponsor]

Couple thing you can do to maximize your flow from the pump you have chosen.

First, run a singe line from the pump, as opposed to splitting it right at the pump outlet. This just adds more pipe and more frictions, which equals more head loss. Try and get it as centered between the two inlets as possible - this will reduce the potential for one side to get more flow than the other.

Then - the best way to get the most out of your pump is to oversize the pipe. Oversized pipe reduces velocity inside the pipe and as a result reducing friction, so you get get more volume. Then you can reduce the pipe as close as possible to the the actual inlet/bulkhead into you tank.

I've created a very basic drawing illustrating this. If the bulkheads are 3/4in, consider running the main return line from the pump as a 1.25" PVC. Then, as close to the actual bulkhead as possible, reduce it down the the 3/4in. You could even go from 1.25" to 1" PVC, and then reduce to 3/4in at the bulkhead.

As for calculating head loss in this sort of setup, I honestly have not idea, but I can tell you, this is how I plumb all my tanks now - and I usual have to crank the pump back a bit

Also - make liberal use of unions - it will make assembly (and disassembly if you need to ) so much easier

 

[DeniseAndy]

Mine do this. 2" mostly and 1" at end outlets.

 

[dlichtii]

Couple thing you can do to maximize your flow from the pump you have chosen.

First, run a singe line from the pump, as opposed to splitting it right at the pump outlet. This just adds more pipe and more frictions, which equals more head loss. Try and get it as centered between the two inlets as possible - this will reduce the potential for one side to get more flow than the other.

Then - the best way to get the most out of your pump is to oversize the pipe. Oversized pipe reduces velocity inside the pipe and as a result reducing friction, so you get get more volume. Then you can reduce the pipe as close as possible to the the actual inlet/bulkhead into you tank.

I've created a very basic drawing illustrating this. If the bulkheads are 3/4in, consider running the main return line from the pump as a 1.25" PVC. Then, as close to the actual bulkhead as possible, reduce it down the the 3/4in. You could even go from 1.25" to 1" PVC, and then reduce to 3/4in at the bulkhead.

As for calculating head loss in this sort of setup, I honestly have not idea, but I can tell you, this is how I plumb all my tanks now - and I usual have to crank the pump back a bit

Also - make liberal use of unions - it will make assembly (and disassembly if you need to ) so much easier

Now this I can understand. this makes sense to me. thank you! only thing is going behind the overflow box is a bit bulky but i like the idea of widening and compressing.

 

[dlichtii]

Now this I can understand. this makes sense to me. thank you! only thing is going behind the overflow box is a bit bulky but i like the idea of widening and compressing.

Maybe something like this:

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics Verified Sponsor]

Maybe something like this:

You are correct - going behind the overflow box is much more bulky - especially if you are running 1 14" pipe. I know, because that's exactly how i did my last builds - luckily we had the room for it.

Something like that would certainly work better than your first design, from a throughput standpoint, but I think you loose a little due to the split being so low, but probably not as much as if it where split at the pimp.

Either way - you will likely have to go behind the drain line pluming, so be sure to account for that extra room. Also, use lots of unions - it makes life so much easier down the road.

 

[dlichtii]

Alright I think I have it figured out. going to use 1" lines and reduce at the very end to 3/4". Going to add a bunch of unions and a 2 ball valves for the manifold and drain adjustment.

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics Verified Sponsor]

This should would work - and get you a good about of flow from the pup.

The only thing I see that may not come out how you have drawn it, is the return line passing behind the drain lines. 1in PVC Elbows and unions will take up a least 4 to 5 inches in depth - possibly more.

Dry-fit it all before you glue anything

 

[dlichtii]

This should would work - and get you a good about of flow from the pup.

The only thing I see that may not come out how you have drawn it, is the return line passing behind the drain lines. 1in PVC Elbows and unions will take up a least 4 to 5 inches in depth - possibly more.

Dry-fit it all before you glue anything

Thank you, I was estimating about 4" of total space behind the tank that is needed. I might end up doing the return lines in the flex nylon to pick up some space.