Help me decide if I let it be or take action

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My copapods and all are fine I don't get bacteria blooms and never had a disease in my tank ever.
 
My no3 and p04 is 0 what's yours.

You probably measure 0 but it ain't 0.
I keep my No3 around 0.3 and my Po4 between 0.05 and 0.10 give and take last time I checked Po4 was thanksgiving.
Now No3 I check everyday as my ALK and if I'm not home I pay someone to check it but I got to know.

But we drifting off the OP's topic here.
 
Let it rock if everything didnt rtn and fall apart in ur tank in 90 seconds youll be alright, its common for things not to look so stellar but be prepared for the massive sponge growths that are going to join ur aquarium, 7 to 10 days any longer then that somethings wrong
 
You probably measure 0 but it ain't 0.
I keep my No3 around 0.3 and my Po4 between 0.05 and 0.10 give and take last time I checked Po4 was thanksgiving.
Now No3 I check everyday as my ALK and if I'm not home I pay someone to check it but I got to know.

But we drifting off the OP's topic here.
Alot of people dose as I do but they forget to replace trace elements first if you do that then check the calk and mag.
 
I forgot to say I still use metal halides even though Led can produce kelv it doesn't have the uv.
 
I forgot to say I still use metal halides even though Led can produce kelv it doesn't have the uv.
 
7 days ago my 160 gallon reef tank (4 months old) clouded up pretty bad. I'm quite sure it's a bacteria bloom from carbon dosing. However the corals are starting to look bad now. Nitrates and phosphate have come up a little (0.25 ppm nitrate and 0.02 ppm phosphate) so I don't believe there should be any organic carbon left. And I've been running fresh GAC and skimming heavy since the cloudiness started.
Never had this happen before so I'm looking for some input.

Do I keep waiting it out?
Since the corals aren't opening fully do I use a clarifier to clear things up quickly?
Or is there another option I haven't already done or thought of?

Back to topic please!
 
I guess I'll weigh in here also..... I vote water change. It never hurts to do a water change.
 
What specifically did you use to 'carbon dose'? And how much did you use, per day, for how long?
 
What specifically did you use to 'carbon dose'? And how much did you use, per day, for how long?
I used AZ-NO3 at about 2/3 the recommend dose. I ramped up according to the instructions. As soon as I hit the full dose (well 2/3 of it anyway) it clouded up, that was 6 days of ramping.... so I immediately stopped.
Been like that 8 days now [emoji24]
Tested everything this morning
NO3 - 0.25 ppm
PO4 - 0.02 ppm
pH - 8.19
Salinity - 1.026 SG/35 ppt
Ca - 380 ppm
Mg - 1380 ppm
Alk - 9.4 dKH
Ammonia & Nitrite- 0
Temp - 78.5

I put a fresh 100 micron filter sock in yesterday, this morning it was still flowing through fine, so it isn't picking up much. Generally I don't even run a sock, but I've been hoping it would help in this case but it really hasn't. While I was carbon dosing I was emptying the skimmer 2x a day, last 4-5 days it's been back to normal. I'm going to change out my GAC this morning too, not sure if that will help, but it's easy to do so why not.

I'll try a 20% WC today too and see if that makes a dent. If not maybe I will try a UV sterilizer, but I'd like to try other things that don't involve yet another piece of equipment if there is anything anyone can think of.
 
Your best piece of equipment is............................ A WATER CHANGE, 20% or everything more is better.
Sometimes the bio balance is taking care of it self.
As Mark (@melev ) suspected was a OD on the AZ-NO3 even you did a 3/4 of the recommended dose.
Not sure why you wanted your No3 at 0??
@Randy Holmes-Farley

This is what the stuff does and it's misleading as it recommends you to run a system at 0 No3 :mad:


Please Note: For use with saltwater tanks only.

Synopsis

The AZ-NO3 (Absolute Zero - NitratesTM) product works entirely by aerobic Cellular Respiration on the target Nitrate molecule, which is then removed by the Protein Skimmer. The oxidoreductases necessary for these processes are the chemical mechanism of an enzyme action.

In the most simplest of explanations, AZ-NO3 can be considered an essential food, required by the active enzyme maltase that functions as a cellular respirator. The manufacturing process renders this product as an undesirable food to certain detrimental enzyme (amylase and invertase) that could uncontrollably proliferate in the aquarium.

Our product utilizes a specific enzyme in the maltase group to activate the oxidoreductases necessary to reduce nitrates by cellular respiration in the aquarium. The product itself does not contain this enzyme, but can be thought of more like a seed, a seed contains the germ (plant) and the food for the plant to grow. The mature plant then becomes the basic food product utilized.

The active ingredient in our product is Cozymase which functions in the oxidation of proteins and of many other compounds important in the intermediary metabolism and the resulting active enzyme Maltase in the aquarium. The Massecuite is food for both the Cozymase to develop and the resultant Maltase to thrive.

Dosage

The proper denitrifying dosage of the product is 1/4 ounce, daily, for each 50 to 60 gallons of water in the marine aquarium system, until nitrates are undetectable. Overdosing, (up to double the amount) is preferred to underdosing and is not harmful to livestock. Larger aquariums will require a larger dose, but nitrates are normally reduced to zero within the same time period. Many aquarists inadvertently introduce nitrates on a continuing basis, through water changes, food, additives, etc., therefore requiring that they maintain the enzyme activity at a low maintenance dosage to hold nitrates in check. Initially the maintenance dosage should be 1/2 of the denitrifying dosage, steadily decreasing the amount of AZ-NO3 used until nitrates can be maintained at an undetectable level. The intent is to slowly wean the aquarium off the AZ-NO3 product entirely, allowing the natural denitrification properties of the aquariums live rock and/or plenum to come into full functioning. The maintenance dosage can be rescheduled for bi-weekly or even weekly additions as the live rock or substrate develops to it`s full potential.

Effects AZ-NO3 provides many other benefits besides nitrate reduction. Upon addition of the product to the aquarium, you will notice that the Protein Skimmer becomes more efficient and remains that way for approximately 30 days after the final use of the AZ-NO3. In addition, as the enzymes become active, all sediments and pre-filters in the aquarium remove larger amounts of undesirable organics, thus requiring more frequent filter changing.

  • It does not interfere with any nitrate test kits to give you illusionQ and fake denitrating effects like the other product (See below "Latest Update").
  • It brings down & maintains your nitrate from as high as 100ppm or more to an Absolute-Zero level. Hence the name.
  • Safe for reef and fish-mainly marine systems (saltwater use only). Will not harm your delicate corals.
  • Works with an efficient protein skimmer to export the bonded nitrate compounds. An alternative way is to employ Polyfilter Pads to adsorb the bonded nitrate compounds.
  • Also dramatically enhance the efficiency of your protein skimmer in the removal of other detrimental dissolved organics.
  • Contains absolutely no yeast nor complex sugar which will cause adverse effects & other unpredictable complications upon long term usage.
  • Since that it is not bacterial-based. Its potency will not be affected by any other additives, medications and supplements. It is fully-compatible with any other chemical engineered for aquatic use.
  • Fully-tested by actual hobbyists with all kinds of marine systems and different starting levels of nitrate concentration.
  • Newly copyrighted formula developed by a group of Biochemists / Hydroculturists. Product will last for 1 year at 70 degrees.
Latest Update

The AZ-NO3 may not work to its full effectiveness under the following conditions:
  • UV Sterilizer running near or above 50,000 microwatts - sec/cm2.
  • Ozone saturation above 40% in the protein skimmer.
  • Customer not changing pre-filter pads and/or filter sponges in mechanical filters before natural nitrification breaks the maltase molecule back down into it`s original nitrates. So, clean your pre-filters and all pads frequently please.
  • Under rare situations that should your fish show stress, an Iodine supplement is recommended. Please bare in mind that the AZ-NO3 enhances the efficiency of your skimmer and Iodine may have been exported.
  • Watch your ORP while using this product and increase aeration if there is a need.


Specifications

Please Note: For use with saltwater tanks only.

DosageThe proper denitrifying dosage of the product is 1/4 ounce, daily, for each 50 to 60 gallons of water in the marine aquarium system, until nitrates are undetectable. Overdosing, (up to double the amount) is preferred to underdosing and is not harmful to livestock. Larger aquariums will require a larger dose, but nitrates are normally reduced to zero within the same time period. Many aquarists inadvertently introduce nitrates on a continuing basis, through water changes, food, additives, etc., therefore requiring that they maintain the enzyme activity at a low maintenance dosage to hold nitrates in check. Initially the maintenance dosage should be 1/2 of the denitrifying dosage, steadily decreasing the amount of AZ-NO3 used until nitrates can be maintained at an undetectable level. The intent is to slowly wean the aquarium off the AZ-NO3 product entirely, allowing the natural denitrification properties of the aquariums live rock and/or plenum to come into full functioning. The maintenance dosage can be rescheduled for bi-weekly or even weekly additions as the live rock or substrate develops to it`s full potential.

Effects AZ-NO3 provides many other benefits besides nitrate reduction. Upon addition of the product to the aquarium, you will notice that the Protein Skimmer becomes more efficient and remains that way for approximately 30 days after the final use of the AZ-NO3. In addition, as the enzymes become active, all sediments and pre-filters in the aquarium remove larger amounts of undesirable organics, thus requiring more frequent filter changing.

  • It does not interfere with any nitrate test kits to give you illusionQ and fake denitrating effects like the other product (See below "Latest Update").
  • It brings down & maintains your nitrate from as high as 100ppm or more to an Absolute-Zero level. Hence the name.
  • Safe for reef and fish-mainly marine systems (saltwater use only). Will not harm your delicate corals.
  • Works with an efficient protein skimmer to export the bonded nitrate compounds. An alternative way is to employ Polyfilter Pads to adsorb the bonded nitrate compounds.
  • Also dramatically enhance the efficiency of your protein skimmer in the removal of other detrimental dissolved organics.
  • Contains absolutely no yeast nor complex sugar which will cause adverse effects & other unpredictable complications upon long term usage.
  • Since that it is not bacterial-based. Its potency will not be affected by any other additives, medications and supplements. It is fully-compatible with any other chemical engineered for aquatic use.
  • Fully-tested by actual hobbyists with all kinds of marine systems and different starting levels of nitrate concentration.
  • Newly copyrighted formula developed by a group of Biochemists / Hydroculturists. Product will last for 1 year at 70 degrees.
Latest Update

The AZ-NO3 may not work to its full effectiveness under the following conditions:
  • UV Sterilizer running near or above 50,000 microwatts - sec/cm2.
  • Ozone saturation above 40% in the protein skimmer.
  • Customer not changing pre-filter pads and/or filter sponges in mechanical filters before natural nitrification breaks the maltase molecule back down into it`s original nitrates. So, clean your pre-filters and all pads frequently please.
  • Under rare situations that should your fish show stress, an Iodine supplement is recommended. Please bare in mind that the AZ-NO3 enhances the efficiency of your skimmer and Iodine may have been exported.
  • Watch your ORP while using this product and increase aeration if there is a need.
 
My nitrates were at about 40 ppm, I didn't necessarily want 0 NO3 long term, but I did wand to bring it down from 40 ppm. So went the carbon rout rather than a few successive 50% water changes which (if no more nitrate got added) would bring it down to 20, then 10, then 5, etc...
Since the water is still "milky" I'm pretty sure I still have an explosion of heterotrophic bacteria...
I think the food source should be depleted by now (i.e. The carbon) but perhaps not?
All the coral is still alive, just not looking good at all the past couple of days.
Will this correct itself quickly enough, or should I take even more aggressive measures?
 
I had a bacteria bloom once when carbon dosing. I may be wrong but I believe the carbon source depletes the oxygen levels. There was a write up a while back but can't remember where I saw it. The way I fixed it was adding a air stone to my sump. My water cleared up in 48 hours. I did a 20% water change first but didn't fix it. This just my experience with bacterial blooms but someone else may have a better resolution. Good luck!
 
Thanks loglan, I believe you are correct and half way through the dosing I did notice my pH drop a little and stay at like 7.9-8.0 until about 2 days after I stopped dosing. That is about the only way I have to detect a rise in CO2.
I'm running a rather large protein skimmer, and my pH is steady at 8.2 again.
I did just finish a 20% WC, and added fresh GAC.
I don't mind the cloudiness, but I think the reduction in light is now affecting the corals negatively. I've been doing this a long time, but never tried carbon dosing myself before or had a bloom last so dang long.
Very stressful and irritating.
 
If you have one I would still add the air stone myself. It sure couldn't hurt. If you don't run carbon 24/7 I would be careful when the water clears up. Clarity of the water while running carbon will give you little more par with your lights and your coral may not like the change.
 
Whenever it does clear I'll put the lights in coral acclimation mode. If it clears. [emoji17]
Not sure if photos help, but here's a couple
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1452178466.695393.jpg
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1452178474.525629.jpg
 
i always wait it out bro.. I had one it took four days to clear up.. it will clear up without a dought.
 

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