Help me find the GAP!

[Christopher Poore]

Hello everyone!

I am in the setup & cycle process of a Red Sea Reefer 200XL. The tank will be a heavy SPS Dominant tank.
Just a bit of background - I had an almost 4-year-old 57Gallon mixed Reef prior to moving states. While I would consider it a “success”, I never truly achieved the results I was looking for in the SPS coloration.
What I’ve decided to do is take a step back, begin researching again, take extensive time setting up, cycling, and purchasing equipment. Below is essentially my equipment & cycle plan before adding corals.


I'd greatly appreciate it if the experts could look over my equipment list and cycle plan and let me know if there are any GAPs that need to be filled.

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The tank will have 50ish pounds of dry rock + 40lb of fiji pink sand

Equipment List:

Flow: Vectra M2, 2x MP10s, 1x MP40
Lighting: Radion XR30 G3 with an Aquatic Life 24 T5 Hybrid (3x Blue+ | 1x Coral+ )
Nutrient Export: Protein Skimmer (I have 2 options, both are oversized for the tank) + CW-50 Algae Scrubber (Not purchased yet, open to other nutrient export options)
Testing/Monitoring: Apex Trident - Dosing Calcium & Alk (Will dose MAG by hand as needed)
(Targets will try and match salt as much as possible - Ideally 8-8.5, 440, 1400ish)

Triton ICP Testing done every 4 months - dosing trace elements as needed based on ICP Results
Weekly 7 gallon water changes (13%)


Cycle:
Rock + Sand added.
RODI Salt Mix fill.
1OZ Fritz Turbo Start + AlgaeBarn NitroCycle Day 1
1OZ Fritz Turbo Start Day 8
Adding clean up crew after the first month
Weekly Water Changes for 2 months
Adding test fish once the 2-month cycle is complete
Will continue regular water changes until coralline algae begin to grow - then will put in tester SPS (assumption is 4-6 months here)

 

[Bo.]

Seems well thought out to me, but I'll give you a bump for others to take a look.

 

[Crustaceon]

I’d ditch the algae scrubber and control nutrients through controlled feeding and small % water changes for the first year. Not even kidding. So many people overdo it on nutrient export and end up with pale and stn’ing coral. If you need it later on, sure.

 

[Christopher Poore]

I’d ditch the algae scrubber and control nutrients through controlled feeding and small % water changes for the first year. Not even kidding. So many people overdo it on nutrient export and end up with pale and stn’ing coral. If you need it later on, sure.

Valid perspective. I think I'll go this route and export if necessary.

The lure to use an algae scrubber is mainly to remove unsightly algae from the display. But you're right, it could cause pale coloration.

 

[jda]

What are your goals here? Ultimate SPS color? I have some suggestions if you want ultimate color, but I will stay out if this is not a goal.

In general, I would spend some cash on real live rock - order some AQ stuff from either Fiji or the Gulf. Dry rock sets most people back years. Even 20 lbs will really help.

Algae srubbers do a good job, but you can wait until you need one. Most tanks do not need one from the start.

Have the salt match what you want to do, not the other way around. It is easy to lower alk in salt mix, so no need to run at 8-8.5 when you could run near 7. 7 and 425 is a good place to be for acropora - MBP&S do not care as much. If you want to have nice acropora, then stuff needs to work for you, not you for it.

You do not need to waste money on ICP testing if you are changing water. Just save the cash.

 

[Christopher Poore]

What are your goals here? Ultimate SPS color? I have some suggestions if you want ultimate color, but I will stay out if this is not a goal.

In general, I would spend some cash on real live rock - order some AQ stuff from either Fiji or the Gulf. Dry rock sets most people back years. Even 20 lbs will really help.

Algae srubbers do a good job, but you can wait until you need one. Most tanks do not need one from the start.

Have the salt match what you want to do, not the other way around. It is easy to lower alk in salt mix, so no need to run at 8-8.5 when you could run near 7. 7 and 425 is a good place to be for acropora - MBP&S do not care as much. If you want to have nice acropora, then stuff needs to work for you, not you for it.

You do not need to waste money on ICP testing if you are changing water. Just save the cash.

Hey there!
The ultimate goal is for deep & maximized coloration. Growth rates are not too much of a concern for me - this is a long term project so if it takes 2+ years for a stick to grow out I am okay with that.

I have decided against any live rock to avoid any unwanted pests. This was a tough decision to make and will cause the cycle period to take exponentially longer but I am prepared to wait.

Great advice on the scrubber - I will hold off until needed.

I am aligned with you regarding salt mix - I need a mix that will arrive as close to my tank's desired ALK as possible.

ICP testing is mainly for trace element testing. I do not plan to test for TE outside of ICP so I believe it's a good place to spend a few bucks. Maybe just an opportunity to reduce the cadence.

Thanks everyone!

-JDA - I did notice you are in Boulder. I just moved from Florida to Northglenn. I would love to connect sometime in the future!

 

[jda]

If ultimate growth is your main concern, then drop the Radion and get a 6-8 bulbs T5 or even get a MH... unless you like the black-light heavy blue look. You will get better color with these other lights. The Radion is fine, but it is not ultimate.

Being in Colorado, heat is now your friend. Even in July and August, you will wake to temperatures in the 50s even if it hits 100 the day before. The lack of humidity will be really nice for you, but kinda bad for your tank heating electrical bill.

Seriously consider the live rock again. You will get all the pests that you want in the first frag/coral that you put in this tank, plus plenty more like dinos and diatoms. Pests are probably the worst reason not to get real live rock. You can spend more fighting dinos, diatoms, turf algae than you did just getting a 20lb box of live rock and just trapping all of the crabs.

Learn how to use Muriatic Acid to lower the salt mix dKh. Gallons * dkh drop * .123 is the MLs of Muriatic Acid to use. Once you get it figured out, then no need to test anymore, you just add and go. This will seriously drop the pH, so you have to mix/aerate for another day or two after adding it - I just make sure that the top if off of my mixing vat and all is well in a few days. ...or just don't change too much water at once and your tank will never even notice.

There is a local club at marinecolorado.org. I have heard that there is a facebook group, but I do not facebook, so no idea on that one. Gonna be a while before there is a meeting, but if the stores are open (I have no idea), then Aquatic Art is not only the best in Denver/Colorado, but also one of the best in the country that I have been to. It is south, but worth the drive once you can. There are a couple of big-time acro dudes here that are good to trade with.