Help me get rid of bryopsis!
- Thread starter Jmas4
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Nothing I found will eat the stuff. I have been pulling and covering with h2o2. I also run a uas (upflow algae scrubber). Over time mine now grows on my return pipes and along top edge. I just scrape it. It is a real nasty one to get. Sorry.
ou12004
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Same here lettuce slug camped out on a patch and wiped the whole patch. I also had it growing in a dead part of an acro an it cleaned that out to. I bought 2 at the same time, 1 died one has been a champ.
reeferfoxx
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It's like an STD without treatment. I've been dealing with a outbreak as well. I declared it a lost battle. You can either tolerate it or start over.
Tolerating bryopsis is by regularly pulling out tuffs of bryopsis or manual removal. Best time to do it is during a water change with all pumps and powerheads off. Pinch at the base and pull. Put bryopsis clumps in a bowl of water. That way the filaments wash off your fingers before going back in the tank.
After several treatments of the manual removal method, the bryopsis growth becomes much much more manageable. In fact you might be satisfied with just a couple small patches showing. Thus being tolerant.
Or, you can do like I did and get a new tank. I still have the old bryopsis infected tank. However there are only a patch here and there growing. Not looking nearly as bad as before.
Tolerating bryopsis is by regularly pulling out tuffs of bryopsis or manual removal. Best time to do it is during a water change with all pumps and powerheads off. Pinch at the base and pull. Put bryopsis clumps in a bowl of water. That way the filaments wash off your fingers before going back in the tank.
After several treatments of the manual removal method, the bryopsis growth becomes much much more manageable. In fact you might be satisfied with just a couple small patches showing. Thus being tolerant.
Or, you can do like I did and get a new tank. I still have the old bryopsis infected tank. However there are only a patch here and there growing. Not looking nearly as bad as before.
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http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/373326-beating-bryopsis/
No better method in existence
Treating the water for a non water-borne invader is how this scourge continues in reefing.
No better method in existence
Treating the water for a non water-borne invader is how this scourge continues in reefing.
nova65ss
Valuable Member
I used 2 different sea hares they destroyed the stuff. It will grow back however hence me using 2 different sea hares...also the only thing the tech m does is kill corals that stuff doesn't work anymore.
Kungpaoshizi
Valuable Member
Cleanse it with fire!
lol been there, Kent tech m is a joke Imo. Remove stuff from tank, manual removal, 35% peroxide diluted rinse outside of tank. (don't use brown bottle; stabilizers are toxic) You'll have to do it multiple times, but it'llgo away after time. Just be sure to get nutrients in check otherwise it doesn't matter.
lol been there, Kent tech m is a joke Imo. Remove stuff from tank, manual removal, 35% peroxide diluted rinse outside of tank. (don't use brown bottle; stabilizers are toxic) You'll have to do it multiple times, but it'llgo away after time. Just be sure to get nutrients in check otherwise it doesn't matter.
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At least someone got mean. Since 1998 it's been all white glove treatment for bryopsis, we need a new concerted effort and as long as it involves damage to the plant in some way I'm down.
Being able to generate the entire outcome on a single test rock, before the whole tank is attacked including the non bryopsis portions is why our removal method is best. By not treating the water, and by scraping the bryopsis off rocks first then treating the barren spots with peroxide, we literally emerge with a tank free of bryopsis. Anything shy of that is snooze fest bryopsis work heh web posters always so judgemental. I see anything that burns the whole tank, the clean up crew, the corals, the ionic balances in the tank all for an approach that might work, and will tell within a few days, as fully inferior method but it's the least work requiring and as such it will remain more popular. The water dosing Kent tech m method works on enough tanks (my estimate 60% of bry tanks can be helped by mg spiking the water) it will always be the go-to method. But that rasp, it's a one time hammer fix with a full clean outcome.
Being able to generate the entire outcome on a single test rock, before the whole tank is attacked including the non bryopsis portions is why our removal method is best. By not treating the water, and by scraping the bryopsis off rocks first then treating the barren spots with peroxide, we literally emerge with a tank free of bryopsis. Anything shy of that is snooze fest bryopsis work heh web posters always so judgemental. I see anything that burns the whole tank, the clean up crew, the corals, the ionic balances in the tank all for an approach that might work, and will tell within a few days, as fully inferior method but it's the least work requiring and as such it will remain more popular. The water dosing Kent tech m method works on enough tanks (my estimate 60% of bry tanks can be helped by mg spiking the water) it will always be the go-to method. But that rasp, it's a one time hammer fix with a full clean outcome.
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