patsheridan
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So I've been saltwater reefing for about two years, and currently have a 72g bowfront. I think I am to the point where I can at least keep parameters stable, with auto dosers for Alk. and Calc. and an auto-top off to keep salinity stable. I have soft and LPS corals with only a couple SPS, plus fishes.
As I say, I auto-dose alk. and calc., and dose magnesium as needed (using the BRS two-part dosing components). I buy pre-mix salt and RODI waters from a good LFS in Hayward, Ca (Neptune Aquatics), and do 10g water changes every two weeks. I test weekly for the Alk., Calc. and Mag., and every other week for Ammonia and PH. Alk. stays at about 9 - 9.5 dKH, Calcium at 420-430, Magnesium at 1200-1250. Salinity is 1.025-1.026. Temp is 77-78. I don't test often at all for Nitrate and Phosphate, because the results I get rarely change (using the Red Sea kits for most all tests).
The tank has two pumps (a smallish Jabao and a mid-sized Aqueon 950) for circulation, a HOB overflow into the sump with a return that is opposite the tank from the two pumps which hangs over the rim and creates strong flow and surface-water disturbance. I have a two-chamber sump. The first chamber is for the overflow thru a filter sock with some live rock and a very few plants, and then the water passes thru a course filter into the second chamber which has a Reef Octopus 150 skimmer. Lighting is a 4' LED strip and a 4', 4-bulb t-5 fixture.
I have just started supplementing Reef Energy A and B, along with Oyster Feast and Coral Frenzy, all 2x per week with a dose of Reef Roids once or twice a week, all broadcast using the pumps with overflow and skimmer off.
Soooo, my questions are: What am I missing re: equipment, procedures, routines, etc.? What do I need to drop or change? How should I be testing differently. Dosing differently? What wholesale or minor changes or additions do I need to make to improve the health and stability of my system, for the health of the fishes and corals?
As I say, I auto-dose alk. and calc., and dose magnesium as needed (using the BRS two-part dosing components). I buy pre-mix salt and RODI waters from a good LFS in Hayward, Ca (Neptune Aquatics), and do 10g water changes every two weeks. I test weekly for the Alk., Calc. and Mag., and every other week for Ammonia and PH. Alk. stays at about 9 - 9.5 dKH, Calcium at 420-430, Magnesium at 1200-1250. Salinity is 1.025-1.026. Temp is 77-78. I don't test often at all for Nitrate and Phosphate, because the results I get rarely change (using the Red Sea kits for most all tests).
The tank has two pumps (a smallish Jabao and a mid-sized Aqueon 950) for circulation, a HOB overflow into the sump with a return that is opposite the tank from the two pumps which hangs over the rim and creates strong flow and surface-water disturbance. I have a two-chamber sump. The first chamber is for the overflow thru a filter sock with some live rock and a very few plants, and then the water passes thru a course filter into the second chamber which has a Reef Octopus 150 skimmer. Lighting is a 4' LED strip and a 4', 4-bulb t-5 fixture.
I have just started supplementing Reef Energy A and B, along with Oyster Feast and Coral Frenzy, all 2x per week with a dose of Reef Roids once or twice a week, all broadcast using the pumps with overflow and skimmer off.
Soooo, my questions are: What am I missing re: equipment, procedures, routines, etc.? What do I need to drop or change? How should I be testing differently. Dosing differently? What wholesale or minor changes or additions do I need to make to improve the health and stability of my system, for the health of the fishes and corals?
If you notice undesirable changed starting to occur, I would then look at your maintenance and dosing routines.
