Help Me Set This Up Right

Flux Capacitor

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
723
Reaction score
1,720
Location
Mile High
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey all,

The better half and myself have decided to build a new house. I have been talking with the builder, and they have given me the green light to figure out a pluming setup for my reef tank. It is going to be pretty complicated, so I figured I would get some input. For now we plan on keeping the 90 gallon set up, and then later down the road when we finish the basement, add a much larger tank.

Now comes the complicated stuff. The current tank will be placed in a loft area on the second level of the house. For now I plan to run a sump in the tank stand like my current setup, but I plan to run 3 1" lines down into the basement. For now those lines will be used just to pump new waterchange water up to the tank from my mixing tanks in the basement. Eventually I would like to set up a fish room in the basement with a central sump system for the current tank, and the future basement tank. This is why I plan to run the 3 lines, for the eventual upgrade.

Here are some pictures of the plans. Behind where the tank will go is the laundry room, it is where I plan to setup my apex for now in a hidden cuboard. The head high is gonna be around 22 feet, but that wont include loss for any vertical pvc running.

Loft View.png


Cross House.png


With all that said, what pump do you think I sould run? I have been looking at the panworld ps250. Would you do something different? if so why?

Would you use hard pvc with 45 angles, or use flex pvc for the lines to the basement? Why one over the other?

What am I missing here?

Im looking forward to getting this up and going!
 
Sounds like a fun project!

I'd use hard lines in order to help prevent any kind of puncture from nails or the like. 45 angles are easier on the head pressure than 90's, but the space you have available to make those turns may come into play. If possible, may be a good idea to insulate the lines as well.
In addition to the water lines, I'd also suggest running a cable pull line - a 2" pipe with a draw string would likely be more than enough, I'd think?

I'm assuming the plans include enough structural strength to support the tank in the loft? A 90g shouldn't be outside the norm of weight for a normal floor, so may not require anything special...
 
Two suggestions
1 have them plum some type of drain in under where the tank will sit, this will make water changes and any draining some much easier.
2 ask if the build will straighten the joist under where a tank will sit by doubling the joist at 10" apart.

Edit per @DLHDesign ;):p:D
 
I don't know why you would ask them to do anything while only wearing their underwear, but if they do it you should TOTALLY get pictures! :-D

Boy I can not get anything by you:D
 
Great idea on the 2" pipe for a cable run. I will have to look into how much space I will have. That would surely make connecting the apex things for after moving the sump to the basement a lot eaiser.

I am hoping I can just run the PVC stright down, but I wont know until the time comes. That would only leave 90 degree bends right by the tank. I will see what they say about beefing up the joist below the tank. I am not too concerned about that, the tank is currently sitting on a standard floor, and I think it is just fine that way. None the less cant hurt.

I plan to plumb a pipe from the return pump line to the sink in the laundry room for old salt water during the water changes. I'll put a valve of some sort on that.
 
You said run 3 1” lines for plumbing. Then a 2” line of electrical/low voltage. Good ideas.

I would add a second line. 3 line for the drians 1”, a 2” line for low voltage, and add a 5 line of possible for the return. To reduce head pressure as much as possible I recommend a single 1.5” return line. Larger diameter PVC has less head pressure lose.

You will need a powerful external pressure rates pump to get the water up from the basement to the 2nd floor. Iwaki Japanese motor. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/iwaki-md-100rlt-japanese-motor-2000-gph.html
This should do it no problem, 39’ of head. These motors are very dependable and well made.

Also a floor drain in the sump area and if possible below or behind the main display. This is especially important since the display will be on the second floor. Any major leak or flood cam cause considerable damage.

Check your homeowners insurance for coverage in this area also. Fire damage I’m sure will be included however water damage from an aquarium may not be. Water damage can be as costly as fire but significantly more likely.
 
Depending on space I might only be able to run 3 lines. If that’s the case woul you run 1 1.5” for the return, and 2 1” for the drain to the sump?

A drain in the floor is a good idea for leaks. I’ll see what I can do about that. I know my current insurance covers water damage from my tank, so hopefully I can get that on the new place as well.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top