Help me succeed with an Achilles tang please

melypr1985

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Hi all! I'm getting an Achilles tang for my birthday. This is HUGE! The most expensive and sensitive fish I will have ever owned thus far. Now I'm doing well in taking care of the fish I currently have. They are fat, healthy and happy. I admit I haven't quarantined a single one of them and that's my failure.

Now that I'm moving into these more fragile fish that are more delicate and expensive, I'm definitely going to start a QT regimen for them! I'm not risking these creatures just because I feel like being lazy. I'm hoping for advice from anyone who has been successful with this fish if that's possible.

My friend at the LFS is going to order him for me and i'll pick him up before they acclimate to their system. (he flat out told me their system isn't as sterile as he would like) This was his recommendation and I agree with it. He also knows I wont purchase the fish if it looks to be in bad health when I get there.

I already know what I need for the basic QT. I'll be getting the HOB filter, heater and ammonia badge this week. With consideration to this species, are there any medications like antibiotics or copper that I should treat him with from the get-go? What kinds of foods should I have readily available to entice him to eat? What I mean is should I have something on hand like black worms or copepods or bbs? stuff that I wouldn't normally have?

He will be going into a 40 gallon tall that I just upgraded from. My thoughts are all jumbled from excitement, so please forgive my crazy way of asking for advice. I just want to be totally prepared for my little fish buddy before he gets here. I want to have the best chance at success with him the first go-around.

Thanks yall for being kind and helping me out.
 
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You need to read this: I currently have two Achilles tangs and have lots of experience with them and relevant tangs.

You'll need to remove all fish and run the tank fallow. I am 99% certain of this. Many fish can manage ich, acanthurus tangs can NOT.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/i...ears-of-experience-and-ich-management.206347/
^read the first two posts in full

Other helpful tidbits:

1) Salinity around 1.026-1.027,
2) LOTS of water flow,
3) lots of oxygen (if you don't have a skimmer you'll need one for the oxygen benefits but definitely to keep water quality high),
4) nori offered daily, do whatever it takes to get them to start eating.
5)Black worms and live brine do it 95% of the time. If you don't have access to both, GET access to both before trying.
6) avoid juvenile Achilles tangs, they're ten times harder to keep. A good rule of thumb is no tear drop shaped orange spot = no luck.

Good luck!
 
You need to read this: I currently have two Achilles tangs and have lots of experience with them and relevant tangs.

You'll need to remove all fish and run the tank fallow. I am 99% certain of this. Many fish can manage ich, acanthurus tangs can NOT.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/i...ears-of-experience-and-ich-management.206347/

Other helpful tidbits:

Salinity around 1.026-1.027,
LOTS of water flow,
lots of oxygen (if you don't have a skimmer you'll need one for the oxygen benefits but definitely to keep water quality high), nori offered daily, do whatever it takes to get them to start eating. Black worms and live brine do it 95% of the time. If you don't have access to both, GET access to both before trying.

Good luck!


Thanks! I was hoping to hear from you! I know you have tons of tangs and are great with them! I'll tell ya I was dreading hearing the whole running fallow deal. I get it though! I really do. So can I keep 3 bangaii cardinals, 2 clowns, 1 blue spot jawfish, 1 pigmy angel, 1 yellow coris wrasse and 1 mandarin goby all together in the same 40 gallon QT as the tang? Should I get another tank and spread them out? Probably huh.

edit to add: I do have a large skimmer that is a definite work horse! (it's loud but it works like a charm)

I'll definitely order the black worms and the live brine before it comes in. I wont be getting it for a couple weeks so I have time to prep.
 
Here are three things you need to know:

1) These fish are typically collected in crest zones, where there is plenty of dissolved oxygen in the water. You must recreate this condition in both QT and the DT by providing plenty of gas exchange. You'll want a powerhead or two pointing towards the surface of the water in the QT, and then lots of circulation in your DT. Achilles are ideal candidates for large SPS reefs.

2) Speaking of large, these fish really should be housed in 180 gal (or larger) systems. Achilles swim constantly, and if kept in a system too small they get stressed out/become aggressive.

3) Like most Acanthurus tangs, they have only a very thin mucous coat protecting them from external parasites (such as ich.) So if your tank has ich, the Achilles will most likely not survive. They usually don't benefit from "ich managment" techniques.
 
Can I ask a stupid question? Surely I can!
I've never seen ick in my fish. EVER and I'm a little crazy about watching them closely. When I upgraded I put new sand and rock (all cured live rock) in the tank. So with that, the chances of having ick present in the tank is still high right? because I never quarantined my existing fish?
 
Can I ask a stupid question? Surely I can!
I've never seen ick in my fish. EVER and I'm a little crazy about watching them closely. When I upgraded I put new sand and rock (all cured live rock) in the tank. So with that, the chances of having ick present in the tank is still high right? because I never quarantined my existing fish?

Can you list all the fish you currently have in your tank? Some species have thick mucous coats, making it difficult for parasites to penetrate (and thus show on) the skin. For these, ich comes & goes inside their gills - out of sight.
 
Can I ask a stupid question? Surely I can!
I've never seen ick in my fish. EVER and I'm a little crazy about watching them closely. When I upgraded I put new sand and rock (all cured live rock) in the tank. So with that, the chances of having ick present in the tank is still high right? because I never quarantined my existing fish?

Your fish likely have a resistance, but the parasite lurks. I would say with 99% certainty it's in your system.

Your question about all fish in a qt, did you ever see what mine looked like? It was out of control! 9 tangs, 4 Angels, 1 copperband butterfly, 4 wrasses, a few gobies and a hawkfish!

(Switch to 720p HD)


The key is daily water changes until your ammonia badge reads yellow constantly. Then switch to every other day for a week, then every third for a few days, then every 5th or more.

I did 75% water changes daily in my 55 gal qt with all of those fish! Keep lots of "sponge" like what is found in the aquaclear hob filters for bacteria to colonize. In your case every other day may work to start just watch your badge.

Adding live bacteria products may help, I dosed prime stability but I am not sure if it provided any discernible benefit. I hear other products are better. Dr something's... Anyone help on the name? Lol
 
So can I keep 3 bangaii cardinals, 2 clowns, 1 blue spot jawfish, 1 pigmy angel, 1 yellow coris wrasse and 1 mandarin goby all together in the same 40 gallon QT as the tang?

Just noticed this. Are these the current inhabitants of your DT? If so, all have thick mucous coats so you probably wouldn't "see" ich on them if your tank has it.
 
Thanks guys. You guys rock. Yes 3fordfamily i have seen your qts. They are crazy amazing! Ill just have to keep up with the water changes then. Im going to get a large hob filter so i should have plenty of room for sponges and carbon if needed.
I think your talking about dr tims. Ive used it before to cycle a tank quick and it worked well for me. Ill get more because, really it wont hurt.

Humblefish, i have 3 bangai cardinals, 1 yellow coris wrasse, 2 clowns, 1 mandarin goby, 1 blue spot jawfish, 1 pygmy angel. I think that's it. I know the mandarin has a thick slime coat that helps protect it, but not sure about the others.
 
Just noticed this. Are these the current inhabitants of your DT? If so, all have thick mucous coats so you probably wouldn't "see" ich on them if your tank has it.
Even fish that don't have thick mucous costs like zebrasoma tangs, hippo tangs, some hardier Angels, and others can show Zero signs of ich for years. I managed ich in tanks with these tangs for 7 years or more.

Again, not the best practice, some fish still die. New additions are at risk you'll lose more of them than with proper qt procedure, and acanthurus tangs will not fare well.
 
Thanks guys. You guys rock. Yes 3fordfamily i have seen your qts. They are crazy amazing! Ill just have to keep up with the water changes then. Im going to get a large hob filter so i should have plenty of room for sponges and carbon if needed.
I think your talking about dr tims. Ive used it before to cycle a tank quick and it worked well for me. Ill get more because, really it wont hurt.

Humblefish, i have 3 bangai cardinals, 1 yellow coris wrasse, 2 clowns, 1 mandarin goby, 1 blue spot jawfish, 1 pygmy angel. I think that's it. I know the mandarin has a thick slime coat that helps protect it, but not sure about the others.

Don't use carbon in a qt - you will want to treat them all as if they have ich (because your tank has it and they're harboring a couple parasites in the gills, statistically).

I've used copper (cupramine) at .5-.7 levels. Take 5 days or so to get that high. If I were you I would do two rounds or so of tank transfer after that to be absolutely positive.

That's my process. (Borrowed from the humblefish himself largely)
 
Humblefish, i have 3 bangai cardinals, 1 yellow coris wrasse, 2 clowns, 1 mandarin goby, 1 blue spot jawfish, 1 pygmy angel. I think that's it. I know the mandarin has a thick slime coat that helps protect it, but not sure about the others.

Very possible your tank has ich but you just aren't seeing it with this group of fish. Since you have not QT. All have fairly thick slime coats - none are ich canaries. ;)
 
Fwiw I use my Achilles tangs as ich thermometers. I know I screwed up when I see it on them. They'll show it first. The black and white spot contrast makes it easy!
 
Lol. Alrighty so i need to get another tank for tranafers, copper, a copper test kit, 2 hob filters, 2 heaters, 2 ammonia badges, an extra net, live black worms and brine, extra power heads for the second tank.... is that about the gist of it? Lots of water and salt and to be prepared to stare at an empty dt for the rest of the summer? Sound right?
 
Lol. Alrighty so i need to get another tank for tranafers, copper, a copper test kit, 2 hob filters, 2 heaters, 2 ammonia badges, an extra net, live black worms and brine, extra power heads for the second tank.... is that about the gist of it? Lots of water and salt and to be prepared to stare at an empty dt for the rest of the summer? Sound right?
Hahahaha when you put it that way..

I only have one qt - I use Rubbermaid tubs for tank transfers. I buy 20 dollar power heads from Amazon and cheapo heaters from there too. I also use araga milk to raise ph of new mixed water each water change. Not saying it's the only way to do things I just did it for 3 months with success lol.

Remember NO prime, amquel, or any other ammonia nitrite or nitrate detoxifying products during qt with meds present it will kill fish with the quickness!
 
Hahahaha when you put it that way..

I only have one qt - I use Rubbermaid tubs for tank transfers. I buy 20 dollar power heads from Amazon and cheapo heaters from there too. I also use araga milk to raise ph of new mixed water each water change. Not saying it's the only way to do things I just did it for 3 months with success lol.

Remember NO prime, amquel, or any other ammonia nitrite or nitrate detoxifying products during qt with meds present it will kill fish with the quickness!

I like how you think sir! I do love to save a dollar when and where i can. I think ill borrow my sister's prime subscription and order these things from there. I have tons of totes in the garage... maybe i can clean one of those to help me out. I can always get another if they arnt usable. Those are cheap.
 
Oh and DO use prime during ttm. Dose every 12 hours, the amount shown on bottle. More if you wish, allegedly it is safe at 5x prescribed dose. Done it in the past successfully.
 

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