Help me with my Bioube 29

Mombo · May 5, 2017

Couple simple questions as I grow near to starting up my first salt water tank. Ive figured out a lot of what I want to order. My sand and rock are on the way already.

When building an aquascape do you want to give yourself room around your rocks or do you want the rocks to be pushed closer to the back of the tank? Or do you want to build something more like and island with a couple inches around the whole thing?

I am currently planning on adding the intank media basket and refugium to my biocube. Is there any specific lights yall would recommend using for the Refugium?

Also for my heater. This tank was setup as a fresh water tank when I got it. The heater inside is a Jager 150w. Is this going to be fine for me to use in the salt water tank?

Ill try and keep this thread about my build and add pics as I start. Ill attempt to keep all my OH NO whats happening questions in my other thread in the newbie section haha.

Katrina71 · May 5, 2017

@Maritimer had a good post the other day about this

Mike N · May 5, 2017

I have a 32 biocube my rock is stacked against the back wall. (seems like most do it that way) You definitely want to keep a few inches of clearance on the front and sides for cleaning.
I use this light for my refugium > JBJ Nano Glo
Yes, that heater is fine.

Mombo · May 5, 2017

Ok I have the JBJ on order for the fuge.

How long should I be running my lights? I am not going to have coral for quite some time as I need to cycle and then not be terrible at this before I get them I think. There are two different color tube lights do I run both at the same time or one at a time? Or is one only needed for coral?

I should be running my fuge light on a timer as well but whenever my lights are off on the biocube it turns on? Or does it need to be on always?

Couldnt find the post by Maritimer you were referencing. Was it on the rock placement or which part?

Katrina71 · May 5, 2017

@ReefQueen has got it down to a science in BioCubes

Mike N · May 5, 2017

Lights are best kept off during cycle. Once you finish cycle, its really personal preference if you don't have corals.
For the fuge light, turn it on when your tank lights go out. Then turn it off before the tank lights come on.

Maritimer · May 5, 2017

Katrina71 said:
@Maritimer had a good post the other day about this

I'm not even sure what I said . . . (>__<) . . .

It might have been something to the effect that you'll want the rock far enough from the glass to allow you to clean the glass - and maybe even allow room for eventual coral growth. (Even zoanthids take up _some_ space!) It might have been something about having two separate "islands" of rockwork, in order to allow fish to defend a smaller territory instead of the whole tank. (I'm not sure you can pull that off in a BioCube, unless you've got very small fish!) You'll also want ledges, platforms and holes at various levels, where you can anchor corals and frag plugs, giving each the lighting and flow that it needs - and try to do all that while still creating something pleasing to the eye! (A fine blend of science and art!!)

~Bruce

Katrina71 · May 5, 2017

Yep it went something like that.

Mikedawg · May 5, 2017

Mombo said:
Ok I have the JBJ on order for the fuge.

How long should I be running my lights? I am not going to have coral for quite some time as I need to cycle and then not be terrible at this before I get them I think. There are two different color tube lights do I run both at the same time or one at a time? Or is one only needed for coral?

I should be running my fuge light on a timer as well but whenever my lights are off on the biocube it turns on? Or does it need to be on always?

Couldnt find the post by Maritimer you were referencing. Was it on the rock placement or which part?

Adam113 · May 5, 2017

I made the mistake of not thinking about fitting a magnet cleaner between the glass and rocks when I first started up my cube, and had to rescape down the road. On the subject, I'd suggest the magnet cleaner made for the curved biocube edges. Makes things much easier.

Take it very slow, and you'll be successful. Some frustrating moments will come up, but in the end it's a very fulfilling and rewarding hobby. I've already started my second tank, a NUVO 10, 7 months after starting my 29g cube.

Here's my biocube! Everything is very happy and all coral is doing great. Even growing some SPS fairly quickly with the stock lighting.

Katrina71 · May 5, 2017

Are you the one that had diagrams of the different rock set ups?

Mombo · May 5, 2017

Did you mean to write something on that quote Mikedawg haha

Although I think I got everything answered so far! Now just to wait for the rock and sand to get here and to start messing around with different structures.

Not me on the diagrams haha. I am not that prepared! Plus no idea what my rock will look like.

Which magnet cleaner is it that is made for the Biocube?

Adam113 · May 5, 2017

Mombo said:
Did you mean to write something on that quote Mikedawg haha Although I think I got everything answered so far! Now just to wait for the rock and sand to get here and to start messing around with different structures.

Not me on the diagrams haha. I am not that prepared! Plus no idea what my rock will look like.

Which magnet cleaner is it that is made for the Biocube?

I used to have to put my hand in the tank and take a scraper to the curved edges because the regular magnet cleaners just skip over it. Works surprisingly well.

https://www.amazon.com/CORALIFE-ENERGY-SAVERS-Biocube-Cleaning/dp/B00GOFNXZ4

Katrina71 · May 5, 2017

Somebody was doing a new tank and was asking about rock placement. They had diagrams showing different options. Maritimer replied. Really neat way to plot it out.

Mombo · May 6, 2017

Ive got quite a bit ordered so far! 2 questions regarding water flow.

For my pump inside the tank I was thinking about doing the Koralia Nano 425. Should this be sufficient for my tank or do I need to look at the 525~ one. Are these secondary pumps meant to be on at all times or should it be on a timer as well with the lights?

Second question is concerning the pump that comes with the tank that feeds the pipe that shoots water back into the main section....Im sure there was a much easier way to say that. Ive read that most people upgrade that pump. I am going to look into doing that down the road and probably get the MJ1200 like most people get.

One thing I was wondering though. Is it a good idea to put a Y valve on the output valve so I can make the water from that pump shoot in two directions? Or should it be full power in one direction?

Should I have the one outlet shooting towards the front and then the koralia pump on the opposite wall shooting towards the front of the tank so the currents meet in the middle? Or how should the pumps be aimed?

Ninja Edit: Since the Fuge in the back of the biocube isnt massive. Should I just do Chaeto considering im getting the JBJ Nanoglo? Or should I look at any other things to throw in there with the Chaeto?

Katrina71 · May 6, 2017

I want your raspberry colored corraline

Mike N · May 6, 2017

425 Nano not enough for a 29 biocube IMO. You could go with a couple of those nanos or a bigger single powerhead. I've got a Koralia Evo 1150 in my 32. Powerheads should stay on all the time.
You can do a Y valve or maybe check out the spin stream instead.
They should be aimed however you think you can provide flow to all areas of your tank. Thats where spin stream comes in handy, it varies the flow direction.
Your rock layout should be taken into consideration when setting up flow.
I would stick with chaeto, you can always try different stuff later.

Mombo · May 7, 2017

Wow wasnt expecting to need THAT much flow! So should I be aiming for two powerheads? Like 2 of the nano 565? Or would it be better to get the Koralia Gen 3 1350? What about the Tunze Nanostream 6045? 2 x Koralia Evo 750.... Too many options....

What is the difference between the Koralia Evolutions and the 3rd gen? One better then the other?

If it matters I dont think we will be attempting SPS in this tank ever. First tank and will prob go the easy route at the beginning

Mike N · May 7, 2017

If you have the money get the Tunze Nanostream, get that for sure. That will allow you to adjust the flow to whatever you need.
3rd gen is definitely better. Smaller, more adjustable, etc. But I'd still opt for the Tunze over the 3rd gen Koralia.

Adam113 · May 7, 2017

Mombo said:
Ive got quite a bit ordered so far! 2 questions regarding water flow.

For my pump inside the tank I was thinking about doing the Koralia Nano 425. Should this be sufficient for my tank or do I need to look at the 525~ one. Are these secondary pumps meant to be on at all times or should it be on a timer as well with the lights?

Second question is concerning the pump that comes with the tank that feeds the pipe that shoots water back into the main section....Im sure there was a much easier way to say that. Ive read that most people upgrade that pump. I am going to look into doing that down the road and probably get the MJ1200 like most people get.

One thing I was wondering though. Is it a good idea to put a Y valve on the output valve so I can make the water from that pump shoot in two directions? Or should it be full power in one direction?

Should I have the one outlet shooting towards the front and then the koralia pump on the opposite wall shooting towards the front of the tank so the currents meet in the middle? Or how should the pumps be aimed?

Ninja Edit: Since the Fuge in the back of the biocube isnt massive. Should I just do Chaeto considering im getting the JBJ Nanoglo? Or should I look at any other things to throw in there with the Chaeto?