Help me with my calcium reactor setup. Please! :-)

Daniel@R2R

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I'm getting ready to set up my first calcium reactor. I'm planning to use this one:

I'm planning to set it up like this:


I already have my feed pump, controller, and ph probe. Other than the needle valve, CO2 regulator (I'll be using this one by Aquamaxx), and the CO2 tank, will I need any other equipment?
 
I just noticed that the regulator I'm looking at from @MarineDepot has a needle valve built into it. Do I need an additional one, or is that enough?

Also, I just noticed there's a "nano" CO2 regulator also available from MD (see it here). I think the first one I listed is better bc it comes with dual gauges, but I'm definitely not educated enough on this equipment to know for sure. Can someone compare the two? Is the regular regulator better than the nano version? I'm not seeing any advantages to the nano version except for space saving (I don't need to save space that badly on this particular build).
 
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I would go ahead and use the first one you listed (gauges). It has a needle valve so nothing else will be needed. It looks like the reactor has a bubble counter built into it? The way you are going to run the setup counting bubbles isn't very important but you want to make sure that the bubbles are slow enough to not be constantly triggering the solenoid on and off, but fast enough to lower the ph level steadily. The ph probe I would think will work as long as it has the correct connection for the ghl.

So other than that you should be good to go. It's time to get serious haha
 
I can't comment on of its better, but I know BRS sells double junction probes. I've never really looked into them though
I was reading where they supposedly are better for not getting contaminated. This is from MD's write-up on Neptune's double-junction lab grade probe:

What is the difference between double junction and single junction porbes?
Single junction probes put the reference electrode in direct contact with aquarium water. Over time, the junction will slowly leak aquarium water into the electrolyte which changes the accuracy of the probe and requires more frequent calibrations.

Double junction probes place a second vessel inside the main electrolyte with a second internal junction. The means that even when the aquarium water eventually begins to make its way in the first compartment, it still has to go through the second junction to contaminate the electrolyte surrounding the reference electrode.
 
I started my Carx using that videos advise. I found it to be very educational and helpful. However, keeping the effluent rate stable as he describes, I was never able to achieve even with the needle valves he recommends. His other advise with the ph adjusting etc is right on point.

I eventually bought a continous duty peristaltic pump that allows me to actually keep the effluent steady.

Easy after that for sure.
 
I have almost the exact setup, except I have the bigger reactor. I have a few questions that weren't answered in my thread. My ALK and calcium are going to high. How to I adjust the output? Do I raise PH? Lower the flow output? Less CO2 bubbles?
 
Hello @mdbannister

The AquaMaxx regulators work well, the only difference between the two is the single and dual gauge. Personally, I would use the AquaMaxx Dual Gauge so you can monitor both the CO2 tank pressure and the working/output pressure. Both regulators have the same needle valve and you will not need another one as mentioned above, thanks @hybridazn!

Bubble counter is indeed built into the Ca Reactor so you will not need a separate one.

All of the Neptune Systems and American Marine pH probes we stock have the BNC connection which is pretty commonplace on aquarium controllers and monitors. You can mix-n-match the probe brands but always be sure to calibrate with the monitor/controller prior to use. I have not really done any personal testing with the single junction and double junction probes to see what is better or lasts longer. I just believe what the scientists and engineers tell me and have always used the a Lab Grade or Double Junction probe. :)

As @AquamanE said, adjusting the effluent drip rate is probably the most frustrating part of a Ca reactor. From my experience, using a a high-quality peristaltic feed pump or Tee off your return line to apply a steady pressure into the reactor will make it much easier. Be sure to keep all of the tubing clean, I found that clogs in the tubing really make it difficult to keep a steady effluent. Using a small ball valve to control the effluent just gets clogged up so I would stay away from something like that. Good news is the AquaMaxx Nano Ca Reactor you are looking at has a nice pinch valve that will allow you to control the effluent/output drip rate. Just be sure to keep the pre-filter on the Ca Reactor clean!

We are following along here and look forward to seeing this reactor in action!

-Robert @ MD
 
I have almost the exact setup, except I have the bigger reactor. I have a few questions that weren't answered in my thread. My ALK and calcium are going to high. How to I adjust the output? Do I raise PH? Lower the flow output? Less CO2 bubbles?

To start, you want your Ca and Alk levels to be perfectly in balance. The Ca Reactor is designed to maintain that level, not really raise or lower it.

First step should be to do a water change and get your levels back to the desired balance.

Next, I would say reduce the drip rate of the effluent into your tank and keep your pH inside the reactor at the recommended level. A drip rate of 30 drips per second is a good start and then slowly increase every few days thereafter until Ca and Alk are maintained at the desired level. In essence, just start over with the tuning process. :)

I would only entertain the thought of increasing the pH inside the reactor if lowering the effluent drip still seems to increase your levels too high. This means your tank has a very low demand for the major elements.

-Robert @ MD
 
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I've been considering the same CA reactor for my 75g build. Following along with ya!
 
To start, you want your Ca and Alk levels to be perfectly in balance. The Ca Reactor is designed to maintain that level, not really raise or lower it.

First step should be to do a water change and get your levels back to the desired balance.

Next, I would say reduce the drip rate of the effluent into your tank and keep your pH inside the reactor at the recommended level. A drip rate of 30 drips per second is a good start and then slowly increase every few days thereafter until Ca and Alk are maintained at the desired level. In essence, just start over with the tuning process. :)

I would only entertain the thought of increasing the pH inside the reactor if lowering the effluent drip still seems to increase your levels too high. This means your tank has a very low demand for the major elements.

-Robert @ MD

Well, my ALK is 9.2 - 9.4 and calcium is 520. When I was liquid dosing, it was 8.2 and calcium was 450. I just started using this last Wednesday.
 
Hello @mdbannister

The AquaMaxx regulators work well, the only difference between the two is the single and dual gauge. Personally, I would use the AquaMaxx Dual Gauge so you can monitor both the CO2 tank pressure and the working/output pressure. Both regulators have the same needle valve and you will not need another one as mentioned above, thanks @hybridazn!

Bubble counter is indeed built into the Ca Reactor so you will not need a separate one.

All of the Neptune Systems and American Marine pH probes we stock have the BNC connection which is pretty commonplace on aquarium controllers and monitors. You can mix-n-match the probe brands but always be sure to calibrate with the monitor/controller prior to use. I have not really done any personal testing with the single junction and double junction probes to see what is better or lasts longer. I just believe what the scientists and engineers tell me and have always used the a Lab Grade or Double Junction probe. :)

As @AquamanE said, adjusting the effluent drip rate is probably the most frustrating part of a Ca reactor. From my experience, using a a high-quality peristaltic feed pump or Tee off your return line to apply a steady pressure into the reactor will make it much easier. Be sure to keep all of the tubing clean, I found that clogs in the tubing really make it difficult to keep a steady effluent. Using a small ball valve to control the effluent just gets clogged up so I would stay away from something like that. Good news is the AquaMaxx Nano Ca Reactor you are looking at has a nice pinch valve that will allow you to control the effluent/output drip rate. Just be sure to keep the pre-filter on the Ca Reactor clean!

We are following along here and look forward to seeing this reactor in action!

-Robert @ MD
Very helpful response, Robert! Thanks so much! I did pull the trigger on the AquaMaxx cTech T-NANO Hang-On Calcium Reactor and the dual gauge regulator yesterday, so I'm excited to receive those and get this thing fired up! :D :D :D
 
Looks like you have the right help, and I have no idea on running a calcium reactor.:D
 
Hello @mdbannister


As @AquamanE said, adjusting the effluent drip rate is probably the most frustrating part of a Ca reactor. From my experience, using a a high-quality peristaltic feed pump or Tee off your return line to apply a steady pressure into the reactor will make it much easier. Be sure to keep all of the tubing clean, I found that clogs in the tubing really make it difficult to keep a steady effluent.

-Robert @ MD

@MarineDepot : I'm glad you agree with me but then you state a "Tee off your return". This again requires the use of the needle valve that comes with these systems. They themselves are often the cause of clogs in the effluent line.

Marine Depot carries Kamoer pumps. I use the kamoer single channel pump that handles continuous duty. These peristalsic pumps allow you to dose up to 100ml/minute with 0.5ml increments. I run mine in the 20 something range/min. No clogging, precise effluent rate at all times. I know this adds another financial element to the set up, but IMHO a breeze. Another element you dont have to worry about. IMHO, you set your CO2 working pressure, your bubble count, and then all you have to adjust is PH, and effluent rate. Ph with the controller, effluent rate at the pump with a few button pushes.
 

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