Help ... my corals are gradually fading away

[Tim Olson]

Over the last month or so, my corals have been receding and bleaching out. Before that they were generally doing OK, but I wouldn't say thriving. But now, many of them are almost dead. I've been trying different things to try to bring them back, but so far have not stumbled across anything that helps. I know I'm supposed to keep things stable and they will adapt, but I haven't able to do that, since I'm thinking something is out of whack.

As background, the tank/system is about 2.5 years old. The parameters are within range, which was confirmed by Triton's ICP test about 1 month ago. Here's a link to the results ... https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/88856/. I also have been running the Triton method for over a year, including a thriving 10 gallon refugium. Also, my display tank is 40 gallons and the sump is 10 gallons. I also have a Kessil A360X light, which I just reduced to 8% intensity, since I thought that might be part of the problem.

My parameter measurements are:

• Alkalinity runs 8.0-8.5 dKh (Hanna checker)
• Nitrates generally show zero (LaMotte kit). Although, I've been doing Brightwell NeoNitro a little to try to get it to register. Could that be an issue?
• Phosphates have been running as high as 0.2 ppm, but lately have been about .04 ppm per Hanna ULR Phosphorus checker. I also use Brightwell Phosphate-E to control the phosphates.
• Calcium was 458, per my last test (Salifert) - this is controlled by Core7
• Magnesium was 1,364 per last test (Salifert) - this is controlled by Core7
• Salinity is 1.0250, per calibrated refractometer using Brightwell Refractometer Calibration Standard to 35 ppt Salinity
• Temperature is 78° F
• pH runs around 8.0-8.1, using a CO2 Buffer

So what am I doing wrong? Am I not seeing something obvious?

Below are pictures of the corals, as of today:

 

[Tim Olson]

Also, I feed a cube of Mysis shrimp, a cube of Brine shrimp and a tiny spoonful of Reef Chili. I target feed once a day and broadcast feed another 2-3 times a day.

 

[Crabs McJones]

It might not happen till morning but let's see if #reefsquad can help only thing I can think of is the lack of nitrates.

 

[Tim Olson]

It might not happen till morning but let's see if #reefsquad can help only thing I can think of is the lack of nitrates.

Thank you

 

[Dierks]

I know its a long shot but have you checked for stray voltage? Could a piece of equipment started to put off a bit of zip to the tank/sump?

 

[Tim Olson]

I know its a long shot but have you checked for stray voltage? Could a piece of equipment started to put off a bit of zip to the tank/sump?

That makes sense, since I do have a lot of electrical wires and devices right next to the sump. Do you know how to check for stray voltage? Should I use a multimeter?

 

[Dierks]

Also Your equipment will leak it as well such as heaters.

You bet checking for stray voltage you just take an extension cord, use the ground side to ground obviously and then place the other one in your tank.

Needless to say make sure you have the correct positive and negative going to the correct place.

 

[Dierks]

Super easy to correct if that ends up being the problem...

 

[Tim Olson]

Super easy to correct if that ends up being the problem...

Thanks ... I'll test for that today. I've never received any shocks, but I bet there's something going on.

 

[Dierks]

Just something to check when everything else seems right.

 

[Ron Reefman]

I realize that you recently dialed your lights back as you were concerned that could be part of your problem.

So what power level were you running them at before you turned them down? And what was the mix of white and blue spectrum? I doubt that the lights were the problem before, but you could be making the problem worse by running them at such a low intensity now.

My concern is 8% is not enough to allow your coral to even do photosynthesis. Do you know what the PAR is at 8% power? My guess is you'd be lucky if it was 50 at the water surface. Don't trust your eyes. They are evolved to adjust and even dim leds in terms of PAR will appear quite bright to our eyes.

 

[Tim Olson]

I've had the intensity as high as 35%, but before the latest change it was 12%. Before I got the Kessil A360X (on July 13th) I ran a Kessil 160 at about 50-75%. In terms of color mix I can't really change that, since it's a Kessil, which is supposed to have an ideal color mix. In terms of PAR, I haven't been able to test that since I don't have a meter. Although, I agree that it's probably pretty low. The reason I lowered it was it appeared the lights were making the corals recede more, but really I was just guessing that was the cause. Also, the tank looks pretty dim at 8%, so based on your comment it's probably too low.

 

[Tim Olson]

Thanks ... I'll test for that today. I've never received any shocks, but I bet there's something going on.

I tested the AC voltage in the display tank, sump and refugium. With the heater on, all three were 25.1 volts. Without the heater on it was 15.5 volts. I'm wondering if that's too high. Also, my heater is a Finnex, which has only the heating element in the sump. I control the heater with a RANCO Digital Temperature Controller, if that makes any difference.

 

[motortrendz]

Should be zero volts. Turn off your equipment 1 by 1 and see when the voltage drops off.

 

[JCOLE]

I tested the AC voltage in the display tank, sump and refugium. With the heater on, all three were 25.1 volts. Without the heater on it was 15.5 volts. I'm wondering if that's too high. Also, my heater is a Finnex, which has only the heating element in the sump. I control the heater with a RANCO Digital Temperature Controller, if that makes any difference.

15.5v AC? If so, that is still too high. Do you have internal pumps? If so, did you turn them off as well? Will need to unplug everything powered to tank then check. If 0 afterwards then plug in one by one until you get the voltage back. I have one of the grounding probes in my DT and one in my sump.

Also, when is the last time you did a water change? I would recommend a 50% water change added with some bacteria such as Dr Tim's or Instant Oceans.

 

[Tim Olson]

15.5v AC? If so, that is still too high. Do you have internal pumps? If so, did you turn them off as well? Will need to unplug everything powered to tank then check. If 0 afterwards then plug in one by one until you get the voltage back. I have one of the grounding probes in my DT and one in my sump.

Also, when is the last time you did a water change? I would recommend a 50% water change added with some bacteria such as Dr Tim's or Instant Oceans.

Sounds good ... I'll test that right away. Also, is this a grounding probe like you mentioned?

On water changes. I do a weekly 20% water change with Tropic Marin Pro-Reef salt. The last one was September 1st and I'm going to do one today. Also, I'll look into the bacteria.

Thanks

 

[motortrendz]

Get that voltage figured out. That's definitly ticking everything off.

 

[SMSREEF]

One thing I noticed in your triton test. iodine is 0 and Iron is really high. Probably the iron is from whatever is releasing stray voltage. Maybe after you figure out the voltage you could do some large water changes...
@Randy Holmes-Farley what do you think about this iron level? How about iodine of 0 (is that even possible)?

 

[JCOLE]

Sounds good ... I'll test that right away. Also, is this a grounding probe like you mentioned?

On water changes. I do a weekly 20% water change with Tropic Marin Pro-Reef salt. The last one was September 1st and I'm going to do one today. Also, I'll look into the bacteria.

Thanks

Yes. I have two of those grounding probes. See picture. In a pinch you could run to Petco and grab a bottle of this. It works well.

 

[Tuan’s Reef]

Curious on what salt brand you are using ?