Help Needed (Tangs) - With Pictures

[Tw1]

I just noticed when feeding the tank that my Kole Tang has white spots on him and my yellow tang has them on pectoral fins. Not present on my clown fish.

They have been in for 2 weeks with no problems with feeding, other than being shy. They spend time ranging in a cave with my blood red shrimp. I feed them dried seaweed and algae flakes.

I do weekly water changes @25%. I mized and used my own salt this week for the first time (Red Sea coral pro). Following this the results were as of last night:
Amonia- 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 10
PH -8.3 (a little higher than normal)
Salinity- 1.026

I added 2 soft corals around 4.5 hrs ago from the LFS.

Can anybody help identify what this might be please?

Thanks

 

[Tw1]

I also have this on my sandbed...

 

[KJ]

I just noticed when feeding the tank that my Kole Tang has white spots on him and my yellow tang has them on pectoral fins. Not present on my clown fish.

They have been in for 2 weeks with no problems with feeding, other than being shy. They spend time ranging in a cave with my blood red shrimp. I feed them dried seaweed and algae flakes.

I do weekly water changes @25%. I mized and used my own salt this week for the first time (Red Sea coral pro). Following this the results were as of last night:
Amonia- 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 10
PH -8.3 (a little higher than normal)
Salinity- 1.026

I added 2 soft corals around 4.5 hrs ago from the LFS.

Can anybody help identify what this might be please?

Thanks

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-cryptocaryon-irritans.191226/

 

[PiscesPower]

Agree with KJ, but for what it's worth I would add some kind of carnivore or omnivore diet, preferably frozen. Both of those fishes are omnivores and need more than seaweed and algae. It will definitely help the Kole Eye to boost immunity and will help it when treating the ich. Like humans you want to take in the best nutrition when fighting something off. I really like LRS nano frenzy or PE Mysis, better yet both! A varied diet helps a great deal. I supplement with Vitamarin M, but not everyone believes in that. I would not take my word on it, do your research before adding any chemicals or supplements (Not the food suggestions, those are sound advice that I think everyone would agree with)


These are my opinions that are based on my own experience and research.

 

[HotRocks]

That is Classic ich. Do you have a QT tank? The fish will need treatment outside of your display (most commonly copper). Then your display will need to sit fallow (fishless) for 76 days to be sure it's gone.

 

[Tw1]

I’ve been doing some research and was hoping it wasn’t Ich! Is there a way to rule it out?

I don’t have a QT set up. I have an empty 4G and 30G tank empty. I’m supposed to be selling the 30G to be collected this week but that might be cancelled.

How can I get a QT set up instantly? I guess I can’t put anything from my DT in it?

I have a sponge power filter spare and heater. Do I need to add power heads?

How quickly do I need to get the fish into QT?

Thanks again

 

[Tw1]

I actually have one of these HOB filters in my sump that I guess could be put into a new QT giving it an instant cycle?

https://www.fishkeeper.co.uk/product/ocean-free-hydra-40-internal-filter-and-depurator

 

[Dr. Reef Verified Sponsor]

Here is a link to a guide I wrote a while back.hope it helps.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/guide-to-setup-a-quarantine-tank-qt.297476/

 

[Dr. Reef Verified Sponsor]

Here are few proven methods to rid ich.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/i...chloroquine-phosphate-cp.297799/#post-3642691

 

[HotRocks]

We can get some more opinions, @4FordFamily, @Big G, @Humblefish. But it's certainly ich. I would use one of your HOB filters, and the media in it like you said to seed the QT. Make sure it doesn't contain any filters that have carbon, as they remove copper. One powerhead in the 30 is sufficient. Aim it towards the top of water level so it "breaks" the surface to help aerate and generate oxygen. Also recommend an air stone. I would start this as soon as you can, as your chances for success with treatment will be greater, as well as the survival of your fish. By the pics, it is already at least moderate case of ich.

 

[Humblefish]

I’m pretty sure that’s ich... at least it doesn’t appear to be velvet.

 

[Tw1]

My HOB in the Sump has carbon in it, so I guess I will use the sponge in it and put it in the new power filter I have.

Is it true anything used in the QT with the treatment can then never be used in the DT again?

There is nothing else stupid with the water change I might have done to cause the white spots? Temp changes? Poor salinity and Ph matching?

 

[Big G]

Is it true anything used in the QT with the treatment can then never be used in the DT again?

Wash the tank and accessories in bleach (for bio-film), rinse, rinse, dry; Wash with vinegar (to precipitate the copper to a harmless form), rinse, rinse, dry. Good to go. Throw out any filter floss used.
I'd go with the 30. Tangs are poop and pee factories. Much easier to manage water quality in the 30 than the 5 you have.

There is nothing else stupid with the water change I might have done to cause the white spots? Temp changes?
Poor salinity and Ph matching?

Ich (Crypto) is a parasite. Water conditions don't cause Ich; introducing fish, corals/inverts, or water with containing the parasites does.

 

[Tw1]

Can I use anything from the DT in the new QT? I’m guessing if I move a powerhead over that has infected water on it any traveling parasites will be killed by the treatment I’m going to be doing?

I’m guessing I can’t add the water from the DT? I guess I need to quickly get 30G of RO produced and mixed!

 

[Big G]

Equipment can be washed with bleach (destroys bio-film), rinse, rinse, dry and then good to go. If you really want to make sure wash with hydrogen peroxide (destroys carbon based materials), rinse, rinse, dry and then even more good to go. But never take the chance going the other way QT >DT.

 

[4FordFamily]

I agree on the ich diagnosis, and what Big g and others have said. I recommend copper in QT ASAP.

 

[4FordFamily]

Also, if the Achilles is going in the same tank, you’ll have to buy another tank to keep it in because you need to run that tank fallow. Ich management or not treating at all isn’t an option with Achilles tangs.

 

[Tw1]

Also, if the Achilles is going in the same tank, you’ll have to buy another tank to keep it in because you need to run that tank fallow. Ich management or not treating at all isn’t an option with Achilles tangs.

I’m not sure what you mean here? Can my yellow tang, kole tang and clowns not be in the same QT?

 

[4FordFamily]

I’m not sure what you mean here? Can my yellow tang, kole tang and clowns not be in the same QT?

They can, but you have an Achilles separate that’s almost ready to come out, if I read correctly. I’m saying if he was to go to the same DT, it’ll have to wait 76 days now.

 

[Tw1]

I’m pretty sure that’s ich... at least it doesn’t appear to be velvet.

My fangs have always enjoyed hiding. So far I’ve got the yellow accross to the QT. The Kole is winning at hiding at the moment.

Will the completely empty tank not cause excessive stress to them? I’ve put a 90 degree and Y piece of 50mm pipe on the bottom.