Help please with WaterBox Peninsula decision

  • Thread starter Thread starter sgpreef
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

sgpreef

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 3, 2020
Messages
5
Reaction score
2
Location
Melbourne Australia
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi All - long time listener, first time caller...

I have the perfect spot for a peninsula tank and am now furiously planning my return to reef-keeping after a 12 year absence!

The Waterbox tank has what looks like the perfect dimensions for what I need as it will fit almost exactly between the wall and a 2 step drop down between our kitchen and living room however there is one element of the peninsula style i keep getting stuck on:

One of the key points of the Peninsula style is that they are great as room dividers and thats exactly why I am leaning towards it - however as a room divider by default the back of the tank (Overflow Wall) needs to, or should be, flush with the wall to achieve that 'always meant to be there' look - but if the tank is flush with the wall AND the aim is to have no powerheads on the three viewing sides - then how do you go about placing powerheads with no room for the dry/magnet side of the powerhead?

Any tips would be gratefully received as I really would love to achieve that flush look rather then look like like I just chucked a tank in the room to divide it up...

cheers
 
Hi All - long time listener, first time caller...

cheers

that made me smile...lol

i am setting up a peninsula as a room divider myself....

from what i see you got a cpl options:

1. use maxspect gyres there magnet is pretty slim on the back side yes it will need some space but not as much as say MP40s. what PH are you using?

2. I see a few ppl make or use ikea type cabinets to give it that build in look. + its a space to hide more gear, food test kits ect. look around you will see a few examples

3. trim it out with wood painted to math the stand.

4. go crazy and cut into your wall for space for your PH

5. drill the tank for closed loop. its an option but one that I will not do tho.
 
that made me smile...lol

i am setting up a peninsula as a room divider myself....

from what i see you got a cpl options:

1. use maxspect gyres there magnet is pretty slim on the back side yes it will need some space but not as much as say MP40s. what PH are you using?

2. I see a few ppl make or use ikea type cabinets to give it that build in look. + its a space to hide more gear, food test kits ect. look around you will see a few examples

3. trim it out with wood painted to math the stand.

4. go crazy and cut into your wall for space for your PH

5. drill the tank for closed loop. its an option but one that I will not do tho.

Thanks Devaji - much appreciated!

I will def now have a closer look at the maxspect gyres thanks - was proving difficult finding the dimensions of the magnets for the various PHs - I'm just starting to accumulate the equipment but stuck on giving the greenlight on the WaterBox Peninsula due to this back wall gap issue - so no PHs at present to answer your question

Ikea cabinet solution is also a good one but I cant really extend the tank out any further or it will go over a small stair gap - its hard to describe but in short I think cutting a small magnet sized gap into the OFlow end wall like you suggest will be the way to go - have been doing a lot of tapping on that wall!

And yes agree 100% on the closed loop - thats what I had last time and wont be doing again

Thanks again
 
other lower profile Ph are the reef breeder RMP pumps just a though 4-5 of those might get you more flow than mp40s

are you gonna run a canopy? another thought is to run PVC in to it then over to the other side of the tank.

but yeah flow on peninsula tanks are the hardest part of having one.
if you have not watch this video of Ryan 360 peninsula flow:
 
Here’s what I’ve done. I had a column to use. For the one side. Had to cut it out after the fact. And had to deal with framing inside since it was close to the corner. The other pushes all the water back to the overflow from the end. I have them both on tidal mode with the one at the end higher power level.

3D08ECC2-C47E-42B0-A531-D0E6C22CB111.jpeg
BA8746D3-ECC1-4943-9545-C5B77345B238.jpeg
C2DC7473-5B0A-4880-8987-10ED02C76C75.jpeg
6B266AF2-4A6C-4EF1-9D13-06214987835C.jpeg
 
Here’s what I’ve done. I had a column to use. For the one side. Had to cut it out after the fact. And had to deal with framing inside since it was close to the corner. The other pushes all the water back to the overflow from the end. I have them both on tidal mode with the one at the end higher power level.

C2DC7473-5B0A-4880-8987-10ED02C76C75.jpeg

how do you service the dry side if you ever need to? can you access from the other side of the wall?
 
For me the column where it sits against had room inside, so I cut it out and used it for the chiller and dosing. I can get to the dry side reaching up and pulling it down.
C1FD85DA-5D8A-450C-A399-773C350257B9.jpeg
 
That column is very similar to my situation so v interesting to see how you've done it - thanks.

I am going to build a floor to ceiling cupboard just slightly recessed from the column so I can then run wires through it to the OF side of the tank and cabinet/sump - and keep all controllers etc in there which looks like what you have done - wont necessarily help with the wall gap for PH magnet - but pretty sure they will fit with the smaller magnets on the Gyres as Devaji suggested but will be a squeeze - I did also do some digging on swapping the dry magnet with epoxy coated neodymium magnets which will be even slimmer profile and very strong but will only head down that path if I have to.

Great to see how you have run the wire for the MP40 on the clear end but that side for me will be a bit of a thoroughfare between kitchen and lounge area so will almost certainly get bumped - hence I am committing to having to get the flow from the OF end only or run a hidden PH in tank.

Re the canopy not planning on one at the outset as do love the look of other tanks I have seen without one. I have a backup idea to put one in if the light glare becomes a sore point for the lounge dwellers... but like most of these builds am happy to adjust as I go once the fundamentals are taken care of.

Thanks again for the suggestions Scallopking and Devaji
 
Also thanks for the tip on the reefmakers RMP pump - def looks like it will fit - and like the idea of 4 of those - also see they make the Coral Box RN-1 which looks similarly slim - quick look and not sure I can get the RMP in Australia but can get the Coral Box - the research continues!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top