Help please.

jdubDaReefGuy

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Kinda looks like velvet but doesn’t have the sugar Liek crystals of velvet. Some type of fungus? Any info would greatly help. Currently in QT with copper and fish mox

IMG_2704.jpeg IMG_2705.jpeg IMG_2706.jpeg
 
Kinda looks like velvet but doesn’t have the sugar Liek crystals of velvet. Some type of fungus? Any info would greatly help. Currently in QT with copper and fish mox

IMG_2704.jpeg IMG_2705.jpeg IMG_2706.jpeg
Tail nipping from aggression and likely Another tank or other fish
Identifyi the culprit and isolate it temporarily
 
Frayed fins like on the yellow tang’s caudal fin are almost always indicative of aggression. The pectoral fins have a white coating that looks like lymphocytosis, which is often a stress response.
I’m not seeing any spots on the body. Does the sailfin have anything? It’s hard to tell in the pictures.
 
Kinda looks like velvet but doesn’t have the sugar Liek crystals of velvet. Some type of fungus? Any info would greatly help. Currently in QT with copper and fish mox

IMG_2704.jpeg IMG_2705.jpeg IMG_2706.jpeg
Now that I see other pics, this is ich and possible tail rot
what copper level are you using ?
Also see bacterial -you can add seachem kanaplex and added aeration with focus on water quality
 
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Frayed fins like on the yellow tang’s caudal fin are almost always indicative of aggression. The pectoral fins have a white coating that looks like lymphocytosis, which is often a stress response.
I’m not seeing any spots on the body. Does the sailfin have anything? It’s hard to tell in the pictures.
Yes sail fin has similar issues. Just fins aren’t rotting like the yellow
 
When I see fish that look "tattered" and aggression can be completely ruled out, the differential diagnosis is flukes, or possibly a secondary bacterial infection.

If your copper is an amine-based product (coppersafe or copper power) and you have a known level of 2.25 ppm, you can rule out protozoans like ich or velvet (but copper takes at least 3 days to start to work). Velvet causes rapid breathing - in all cases. If you post a clear video of the fish, I can evaluate their breathing rate.

External Fungal infections are very rare in marine fish (common in FW fish though).


Jay
 
When I see fish that look "tattered" and aggression can be completely ruled out, the differential diagnosis is flukes, or possibly a secondary bacterial infection.

If your copper is an amine-based product (coppersafe or copper power) and you have a known level of 2.25 ppm, you can rule out protozoans like ich or velvet (but copper takes at least 3 days to start to work). Velvet causes rapid breathing - in all cases. If you post a clear video of the fish, I can evaluate their breathing rate.

External Fungal infections are very rare in marine fish (common in FW fish though).


Jay
So I initially thought flukes. But they have been in cooper for 2 days now and those spots really haven’t come off. The yellow tang got worse once added to the cooper QT. I will try and get some clear videos
 
When I see fish that look "tattered" and aggression can be completely ruled out, the differential diagnosis is flukes, or possibly a secondary bacterial infection.

If your copper is an amine-based product (coppersafe or copper power) and you have a known level of 2.25 ppm, you can rule out protozoans like ich or velvet (but copper takes at least 3 days to start to work). Velvet causes rapid breathing - in all cases. If you post a clear video of the fish, I can evaluate their breathing rate.

External Fungal infections are very rare in marine fish (common in FW fish though).


Jay
I hope this is clear enough.
 
So I initially thought flukes. But they have been in cooper for 2 days now and those spots really haven’t come off. The yellow tang got worse once added to the cooper QT. I will try and get some clear videos

I couldn't see much detail in the video, it had some weird "glow" to it. The YT does seem to be breathing fast. Are its eyes cloudy, or is that a function of the video?

Copper doesn't kill flukes, and it takes 3 days at full dose to really begin to stop any protozoan issues.

Be sure that the ammonia level in this tank is kept below 0.50 ppm (the copper contains some non-toxic ammonia that interferes with some ammonia tests).
 

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