kaylashires
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Help please
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I'll take a wild guess and say black ick....but that's a guess because I'm ignorant to fish diseases. The person who can most likely help is @Humblefish
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kaylashires
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No GAC (that s like those carbon pellets right?)
Looks like HLLE to me also.
I think it's black ich - see below for more info.
Black Ich:
Symptoms - This looks like tiny black dots on the body or fins. Black ich is caused by an infestation of turbellarian flatworms and is mostly seen in tangs. It is “ich” in name only and requires an entirely different treatment than Cryptocaryon irritans.
Treatment options – Prazipro, or formalin bath.
Black Ich:
Symptoms - This looks like tiny black dots on the body or fins. Black ich is caused by an infestation of turbellarian flatworms and is mostly seen in tangs. It is “ich” in name only and requires an entirely different treatment than Cryptocaryon irritans.
Treatment options – Prazipro, or formalin bath.
Try Prazipro before you do a formalin bath - as Prazipro is reef safe, so it can be used right in the DT. If you can catch him, a FW dip will usually provide temporary relief but you will still need to treat with Prazi.
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
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kaylashires
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Where can I buy pazipro, do I dose my whole tank (reef tank) or quarantine the tang and just dose him?
I would dose the entire reef tank with it. You can buy it at a LFS or online:
http://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Usa-AHK73254-Prazipro-Aquarium/dp/B004LOBGYA
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12098
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
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kaylashires
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One more thing I am putting a uv steliizer in my tank this weekend will this help aid in treatment and help prevent this from occurring again
Not with this particular problem, as turbellarians live most of their life cycle either on or inside the fish. A UV may help with free swimming parasites and harmful bacteria, but it won't completely eradicate them from your aquarium.
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kaylashires
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Thank you!
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kaylashires
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The FW dip dislodged the worms and what you are seeing now is the tiny bite marks they inflicted. Or more accurately, the white excess mucous building up around the insertion points. This is actually a good thing, a step in the right direction. 
They should fade in the coming days. You still need to treat with Prazipro, however, to prevent a recurrence.
They should fade in the coming days. You still need to treat with Prazipro, however, to prevent a recurrence.
Fish_BowLisha
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Could the worms have come from the coral? On the rock the coral is on?
They are mostly transmitted fish to fish via direct contact. However, the eggs & larvae are both capable of movement in the water column, and the eggs at least are sticky enough to be trapped in gill mucus, filter media, and substrate according to this article: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa033
Fish_BowLisha
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Thanks. I had a vague memory of why we should dip new corals... I just started collecting again so I'm cleaning out the spider webs in my brain lol
