Help! Problems and a bit lost with where to go next.

[Dburr1014]

Have turned down the photoperiod on the chaeto.. was hoping that would outcompete the GHA and others but it might be having the reverse affect.

You mean added more light time to the cheato, correct?

 

[Jacko85]

It's a newish tank.
Lots of things are still changing.
Let it settle in.

But corals are retracted,...it's a new tank.

One thing you didn't mention,
Lights and flow. Lights you turned down, turn them back up. See if the coral open up. Turn up the flow, see if the coral open up.
Change one thing at a time but down be afraid to change things. These animals came from a place with lots of flow and light but super stable water. We can't do that.
Your tank biome is changing everyday and every time you add anything to your tank.

Appreciate it. I might just be over reacting. The acan was looking a little better tonight so perhaps I just need to wait it out.

I wish I had 10+ years of direct experience to call upon to know what's normal and what's not! But alas i'll need to wait 10+ years for that

 

[Jacko85]

You mean added more light time to the cheato, correct?

Less actually. To try and bring up the nitrates from 0. Not a good idea?

 

[Dburr1014]

Less actually. To try and bring up the nitrates from 0. Not a good idea?

Ah, I see.
If you want it to out-compete algae, you would turn it up.

What I would do...

Scrub the gha every other day and turn up the light on the cheato.
If you stay@ zero nutrients, feed more.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

2*AI Prime 16 HD. And currently 1*AI Nero 7 (Another ordered and on the way).

Ramped the primes up to 100% over time... the PAR at the lower levels where the corals as didn't seem excessive 75 or so IIRC so was actually worried about too little. Backed it off to 60% with acclimation so now is rising back up again.

Flow is... ok? And when feeding the mysis can see it fairly well. (But honestly it's hard to know what is normal for me) Corals are in the middle lower portion and seems to be turbulent / random middle to low flow. Its low on the opposite side of the tank to the AIN7 but hence the extra on the way (was always the plan). Corals were happy for quite a while before this episode so wasn't immediately thinking flow.

Edit: Will get some more pics soon.

the lighting will be a part of your problem, the AI 16 is a nano light, IMO it maxes out at about 25 gallons. I have AI 16 on my 15 gallon set at 70%. Your tank should have probably 4 of them, but stronger lights is better than several weaker lights IMO

We are replicating the ocean, so the water should flow, it should move from one side of the tank to the other. My 40 gallon has 2 gyres. Without flow, detritus will build up in dead spots and build up nitrate, algae loves low flow tanks, corals need flow to bring them nutrients and oxygen and to help clean them. Your size tank should have strong powerheads to move the water, flow is very important in a saltwater tank.

You should also have a powerhead pointed at the water surface, the surface should be well agitated. This help gas exchange and will help oxygenate the water.

For corals, its all about lighting and flow and nutrients, in that order.

Why Flow is So Critical in a Reef Aquarium | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

If you shut off your skimmer for a day or two there is usually no problem. I have also shut off all my lights for four days to kill algae and again there was no issue with the corals. But I have had…

reefbuilders.com

 

[Jacko85]

the lighting will be a part of your problem, the AI 16 is a nano light, IMO it maxes out at about 25 gallons. I have AI 16 on my 15 gallon set at 70%. Your tank should have probably 4 of them, but stronger lights is better than several weaker lights IMO

We are replicating the ocean, so the water should flow, it should move from one side of the tank to the other. My 40 gallon has 2 gyres. Without flow, detritus will build up in dead spots and build up nitrate, algae loves low flow tanks, corals need flow to bring them nutrients and oxygen and to help clean them. Your size tank should have strong powerheads to move the water, flow is very important in a saltwater tank.

You should also have a powerhead pointed at the water surface, the surface should be well agitated. This help gas exchange and will help oxygenate the water.

For corals, its all about lighting and flow and nutrients, in that order.

Why Flow is So Critical in a Reef Aquarium | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog

If you shut off your skimmer for a day or two there is usually no problem. I have also shut off all my lights for four days to kill algae and again there was no issue with the corals. But I have had…

reefbuilders.com

Thanks for the advice. I guess I read too much about coral bleaching! Wanted to start lower (hence the coral choices) and build up over time. Second AIN7 is on the way so that should help flow.. it does kick up to the surface a fair amount where it's mounted so I think in terms of oxygen exchange i'm ok at this point.

 

[Glowurm]

2*AI Prime 16 HD. And currently 1*AI Nero 7 (Another ordered and on the way).

Ramped the primes up to 100% over time... the PAR at the lower levels where the corals as didn't seem excessive 75 or so IIRC so was actually worried about too little. Backed it off to 60% with acclimation so now is rising back up again.

Flow is... ok? And when feeding the mysis can see it fairly well. (But honestly it's hard to know what is normal for me) Corals are in the middle lower portion and seems to be turbulent / random middle to low flow. Its low on the opposite side of the tank to the AIN7 but hence the extra on the way (was always the plan). Corals were happy for quite a while before this episode so wasn't immediately thinking flow.

Edit: Will get some more pics soon.

When you say "ramped them up to 100%" is that across all spectrums?

What are the dimensions of the tank because your PAR seems a little low for me and not convinced 2 Primes is giving you enough coverage. Might be worth hiring a PAR meter and recording your readings, its worth taking the time to do this IMO as it will help with coral placements etc.

 

[Jacko85]

some before and after of the 3 corals at the moment (you can guess which is which )

 

[Solo McReefer]

I wish I had 10+ years of direct experience to call upon to know what's normal and what's not!

Looks perfectly normal for a new tank with dead rock

So far you have avoided the crysophates phase. That will make you cry. It not only grows on dead rock, it grows on corals and kills them

I am fairly certain there is a causal relationship between crysophates and dead dry rock

All the other nuisance algae are child's play in comparison

 

[Solo McReefer]

Less actually. To try and bring up the nitrates from 0. Not a good idea?

You have nitrate in the tank

The green algae is proof of that

You just don't have it on your test kit results. It's a false negative

Phosphate is in the tank as well...green algae

Add more nitrate, you will get more algae. Simple Simon Said The Pieman

 

[Jacko85]

When you say "ramped them up to 100%" is that across all spectrums?

What are the dimensions of the tank because your PAR seems a little low for me and not convinced 2 Primes is giving you enough coverage. Might be worth hiring a PAR meter and recording your readings, its worth taking the time to do this IMO as it will help with coral placements etc.

Using one of the mobius presets.

I have a seneye so was using that to check for PAR. Was around 75 I *think* around coral level at 100%. It's a 4ft * 1.8ft height* 1.8ftish depth.

But light wise the corals were happy for multiple weeks prior to this with what was going on.. it was a fairly quick change over a week which is what caused me concern. Might need more light for sure.. but would that create a quick change?

 

[Solo McReefer]

some before and after of the 3 corals at the moment (you can guess which is which )

You have put these corals in, in the tester coral phase

Those are your tester corals

 

[Jacko85]

You have put these corals in, in the test coral phase

Those are your test corals

100% they are. But I want to make sure I am learning when things happen with them

 

[Solo McReefer]

Ah, I see.
If you want it to out-compete algae, you would turn it up.

What I would do...

Scrub the gha every other day and turn up the light on the cheato.
If you stay@ zero nutrients, feed more.

Yup

+1

And add more CUC

Remember biodiversity comes in on the CUC. It's not just snails and hermits. You will be getting pods and tiny inverts like those tiny serpent starfish. If you find a source for those, buy and handful of those too

 

[Solo McReefer]

100% they are. But I want to make sure I am learning when things happen with them

You are

I totally disagree with the posters saying water changes are giving you problems

I have no idea for the rationale for that

Did you say you have some kind of macro algae reactor, scrubber, refugium? I saw your growing chaeto, how

 

[Jacko85]

You are

I totally disagree with the posters saying water changes are giving you problems

I have no idea for the rationale for that

Did you say you have some kind of macro algae reactor, scrubber, refugium? I saw your growing chaeto, how

Chaeto in the sump

 

[Glowurm]

Using one of the mobius presets.

I have a seneye so was using that to check for PAR. Was around 75 I *think* around coral level at 100%. It's a 4ft * 1.8ft height* 1.8ftish depth.

But light wise the corals were happy for multiple weeks prior to this with what was going on.. it was a fairly quick change over a week which is what caused me concern. Might need more light for sure.. but would that create a quick change?

I run two primes in a 90 x 60 x 50 tank, and my PAR is closer to 100 on the sand-bed, and they are probably at 60/70%. Feel like you need a third one in there assuming your not intending to grow SPS due to the width.

Fingers crossed my corals appear happy enough (for now), but longer term will be looking to upgrade them. Upfront costs for a new hobbyist aren't kind! lol

 

[Solo McReefer]

I guess I read too much about coral bleaching!

If your worried about corals bleaching because of the light

Move the corals out of the high light area

Down, over to the side, partially under some shadow, under a shelf of rock. Eventually under other corals

That is, if you have a normal reef light and a normal schedule and normal intensity. Say a 400 PAR at the top 100 Par at the bottom. 12 hour period with a Sunrise Sunset ramp up and ramp down. Maybe a little extra white light ramp up in the middle of the shedule(ie noon simulation). Normal. Most new reef lights have this all set up as a template. Use that

Changing your light setting for the coral is not your first step. Changing the coral location is the first step

 

[Gumbies R Us]

I run two primes in a 90 x 60 x 50 tank, and my PAR is closer to 100 on the sand-bed, and they are probably at 60/70%. Feel like you need a third one in there assuming your not intending to grow SPS due to the width.

Fingers crossed my corals appear happy enough (for now), but longer term will be looking to upgrade them. Upfront costs for a new hobbyist aren't kind! lol

The upfront cost can be a killer! However, once you get everything, it isn't too bad.

 

[Solo McReefer]

Chaeto in the sump

80 gallon tank, you should have about enough chaeto to fill up a 4 cup measuring cup?

And you have a proper grow light?

A lot of people run that on a reverse photoperiod, to help stabilize pH, on when your tank lights are dark. I would not go less than a 12 hour period. Algae and most plants metabolize during the day, and "grow" at night(but you can run it 24 hours)