Help regarding Cyano
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Randy Holmes-Farley
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You are assuming that dosing nitrate and/or phosphate is increasing the organics available to react with H2O2? It might, but I'm not certain of that.
Kungpaoshizi
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Increase flow in the tank a bit(within reason, if corals start closing more than you've reached your limit), cut back any nitrate dosing so nitrates are .25-.5ppm (because phyto and cyano will feed from it but you need nitrates to be a bit more available than phosphates), for the next couple weeks- everyday use a turkey baster and blow it into your sand to turn it over and aerate it, blow off all rocks as well, scrape the glass daily even if you don't see a buildup, and do 50% water changes slowly everyday. Invest in some encapsulated food as well. For your fish, get some Golden Pearls, for the coral the small micron version or nutricell. (I prefer nutricell for the corals)
I'm of mixed opinions on in-tank peroxide dosing. It works great on rocks/frags outside of the tank, but it never worked very well inside the tank for me. I also wouldn't want to jeopardize my nitrifying bacterial mass. Some say 'it doesn't kill bacteria in the tank!' but I find that very hard to believe as h202 will perfectly kill any cells.
Oh, and get more blue leg hermits, things get very easy with 2 per gallon. If you don't have sexy shrimp or small fish, emerald crabs help eat hair/some bryopsis in addition to other algaes. And find some stomatellas and trochus snails. (trochus can upright themselves better than turbo imo)
I'm of mixed opinions on in-tank peroxide dosing. It works great on rocks/frags outside of the tank, but it never worked very well inside the tank for me. I also wouldn't want to jeopardize my nitrifying bacterial mass. Some say 'it doesn't kill bacteria in the tank!' but I find that very hard to believe as h202 will perfectly kill any cells.
Oh, and get more blue leg hermits, things get very easy with 2 per gallon. If you don't have sexy shrimp or small fish, emerald crabs help eat hair/some bryopsis in addition to other algaes. And find some stomatellas and trochus snails. (trochus can upright themselves better than turbo imo)
CJBuckeyes
Active Member
mOjjen, any update?
I repeated the test as well, and my water is pink. I stopped dosing NO3 as its near 5ppm, but will keep dosing PO4 to keep it above zero. I also bought some fresh peroxide and increased from 1:10 to 1:8.
Hopefully will see some results soon..
I repeated the test as well, and my water is pink. I stopped dosing NO3 as its near 5ppm, but will keep dosing PO4 to keep it above zero. I also bought some fresh peroxide and increased from 1:10 to 1:8.
Hopefully will see some results soon..
I have stopped the h2o2 dosing along with kno3.
The same day i started the probiotic program ny AF (been running everything except pro bio s abd np-pro). Two days after the pro bio s and np pro dosing started and h2o2 + kno3 ended my cyano is 99% gone
CJBuckeyes
Active Member
Not sure what happened either, but glad that it cleared up for you.
No improvement for me at day 3 with new h2o2 and 1:8. Increasing to 1:7 tonight. Will give it a few days before rethinking my game plan.
Here's a pic of twilliard's h202 test I did two days ago..
No improvement for me at day 3 with new h2o2 and 1:8. Increasing to 1:7 tonight. Will give it a few days before rethinking my game plan.
Here's a pic of twilliard's h202 test I did two days ago..
CJBuckeyes
Active Member
Oh wow.. that does look much different. Thanks for posting.
OP
OP
m0jjen
Well-Known Member
@Randy Holmes-Farley Think you can crack this nut? This is where i am at the moment. Cyano and dino is still triving which isnt a good think. The triton report came in and can be found here http://docdro.id/HuVAyf5 - Im not that worried about some elements beeing out of line since i have reasonable explanations to them.
So dealing with the cyano and dino has been a pain sofar. Nothing has shown to good results to far. I've resorted to bacteria dosing (special blend + aquarium balancer). This bacterial dosing has shown some progress but not enough.
My theory is this. I know prove that there PO4 present in the tank. Not much but its there. (Hanna give me all kinds of results and triton says 0.014). While my NO3 is lacking and is at most 1-2.5 ppm. When i started getting problems i had 0 No3 present for a really long time, and since the start of my troubles have not experianced any microalgae at all. I litterly havent touched the glass for a good 3 weeks now.
What can we make of this? Well cyano can get its nitrogen from the air around the aquarium. We know that much. Microalgae on the other hand can not. Since there is no algae present at all, but i have a cyanobacterial bloom along with dinoflaggelates which both are microorganism and not algae im guessing my tank is started of something rather then having something present in a too high amount (might be higher amounts of some element aswell).
So from this im thinking ill go down and dirty for awhile. Letting my nitrates rise from overfeeding the tank while running GFO. I have no clue if this is the right way or not but im gonna test it for the following reasons:
1. My corals are pale and STN on afew acros.
2. No3 is alot easier to manage than cyano/dino if it works, there are no reports saying that 10 no3 is a bad thing nor will it kill corals or any other livestock.
3. Since im running a bacteria driven system the bacteria needs no3 to use po4
Any input on this is much appreciated.
This is where i am at the moment. Cyano and dino is still triving which isnt a good think. The triton report came in and can be found here http://docdro.id/HuVAyf5 - Im not that worried about some elements beeing out of line since i have reasonable explanations to them. So dealing with the cyano and dino has been a pain sofar. Nothing has shown to good results to far. I've resorted to bacteria dosing (special blend + aquarium balancer). This bacterial dosing has shown some progress but not enough.
My theory is this. I know prove that there PO4 present in the tank. Not much but its there. (Hanna give me all kinds of results and triton says 0.014). While my NO3 is lacking and is at most 1-2.5 ppm. When i started getting problems i had 0 No3 present for a really long time, and since the start of my troubles have not experianced any microalgae at all. I litterly havent touched the glass for a good 3 weeks now.
What can we make of this? Well cyano can get its nitrogen from the air around the aquarium. We know that much. Microalgae on the other hand can not. Since there is no algae present at all, but i have a cyanobacterial bloom along with dinoflaggelates which both are microorganism and not algae im guessing my tank is started of something rather then having something present in a too high amount (might be higher amounts of some element aswell).
So from this im thinking ill go down and dirty for awhile. Letting my nitrates rise from overfeeding the tank while running GFO. I have no clue if this is the right way or not but im gonna test it for the following reasons:
1. My corals are pale and STN on afew acros.
2. No3 is alot easier to manage than cyano/dino if it works, there are no reports saying that 10 no3 is a bad thing nor will it kill corals or any other livestock.
3. Since im running a bacteria driven system the bacteria needs no3 to use po4
Any input on this is much appreciated.
