ScottR
Surfing....
No need to test for other parameters (except temp and salinity). If pH, alk and nitrates are stable, regular water changes keep things just fine.
Help the new guy out
- Thread starter Dloy90
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No other fish are likely to bother it. There are some that are even likely to bother your fish, but BTAs aren't aggressive that way.
Aside from choosing the kind that most likely will do what you want (stay put and host clowns), they other thing to be careful about is buying a healthy specimen. Will you be able to see the nem before you buy it, say, from a LFS? Or is this going to be an internet purchase?
Things to look for if buying locally: is the nem inflated, mouth nicely closed up, and foot intact? "no" to any of those suggests "don't buy!". There could be valid reasons for the nem being deflated or having an open mouth, but it's something that you will want to check out.
Aside from choosing the kind that most likely will do what you want (stay put and host clowns), they other thing to be careful about is buying a healthy specimen. Will you be able to see the nem before you buy it, say, from a LFS? Or is this going to be an internet purchase?
Things to look for if buying locally: is the nem inflated, mouth nicely closed up, and foot intact? "no" to any of those suggests "don't buy!". There could be valid reasons for the nem being deflated or having an open mouth, but it's something that you will want to check out.
OP
OP
Dloy90
Community Member
I can get from either, my LFS doesnt tend to have bubble tips in so might have to get from online, not ideal i know but options are limited. There seems to be a large variant on price online though...
There are lots of threads on R2R about nem/clownfish compatibility. If you haven't tried it yet, the search feature is very helpful (not being a wise guy, just pointing you to what I use the most on R2R).
Lots of people have luck with getting ocellaris clowns to host in BTAs. That said, it can take a long time until the clown decides to host. There are all sorts of tricks you can try to get them started though. Everything from taping pictures in the tank, to starting them off in very small tanks, to surrounding the nem and the clown with an acrylic tube to "encourage" the clown to get up close and personal with the nem.
Have a go at searching the topic, there is a lot of info on here about this!
Lots of people have luck with getting ocellaris clowns to host in BTAs. That said, it can take a long time until the clown decides to host. There are all sorts of tricks you can try to get them started though. Everything from taping pictures in the tank, to starting them off in very small tanks, to surrounding the nem and the clown with an acrylic tube to "encourage" the clown to get up close and personal with the nem.
Have a go at searching the topic, there is a lot of info on here about this!
BTAs are like coral - the more colorful the nem, or crazy the name, the higher the price! There is something called a colorado sunburst anemone that seems to be the holy grail, and is priced accordingly. Then there is a run of the mill rose BTA that is on the other end of the pricing spectrum. Some of those can actually be very colorful, all depends on the particular variant.
lmm1967
Well-Known Member
Tons of info here. https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/anemone-clownfish-discussion.182/
Compatibility chart here. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/anemone-compatibility-spreadsheet.254141/
Compatibility chart here. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/anemone-compatibility-spreadsheet.254141/
Mayerlyn A
Entre_Jardines
You should be solid
Mayerlyn A
Entre_Jardines
Let us know what you get. Would love to see how it goes
OP
OP
Dloy90
Community Member
Should probably have mentioned this earlier! I had copper in the tank to treat some white spot which has now not been an issue for a while. Would this be a problem? If so, would running carbon for a while to remove the copper resolve it? I have a copper test kit so can keep an eye on its levels.
Glad you asked! Yes, that's a problem. Copper and inverts don't mix.
Here's some reading for you to do re: removing the copper: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-remove-copper-from-dt.326316/
Short answer: the carbon might remove the copper from the water, but the rocks and substrate most likely have absorbed it, and will continue to leach it back into the water over time. How much copper will be leached, and how much time will it take to eliminate, is all up for debate.
Florida Sunshine
Well-Known Member
I think the most important thing got lost in the thread. The first and most important (well maybe) question is what type of clowns do you have? Then look on the compatability chart https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/anemone-compatibility-spreadsheet.254141/ and find out what kind of anemone is the natural host for the clowns that you have.
Condy's in particular are not a hosting anemone so if you want the hosting behavior that is not the route to go.
Then see if you have the requirements for that type of anemone.
Condy's in particular are not a hosting anemone so if you want the hosting behavior that is not the route to go.
Then see if you have the requirements for that type of anemone.
OP
OP
Dloy90
Community Member
Just had a read through that thread. Glad i asked as well. Would you say the nem will be fine with copper levels undetectable by a test kit? In other words, through time when the copper leaches from the rocks for example will that be enough to cause damage to the nem?
vetteguy53081
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I would add flow as with return pressure only, you can have dead spots and build up of detrious on bedding.
I would get a Jebao with variable speed as you can adjust current needs to your liking and turn the movement up or down
I would get a Jebao with variable speed as you can adjust current needs to your liking and turn the movement up or down
I've never done this, so I don't have any experience with it. From what I have read, people have had long term success, but it is a function of things such as: how much copper you had dosed to begin with, how long it was in the tank, waiting until you consistently get zero copper in tests for a while, etc. You can accelerate the process by replacing the rock and the substrate, which people have done.
Hopefully someone with firsthand experience will come along. One thing to consider though, when you do think you have gotten to the point where the tank is safe, you might want to add something other than your dream BTA to the tank to make sure it's invert-safe.
