HELP. this hobby is killing me

First off take a deep breath slow down and recoup. Nothing but problems happen fast in this hobby. Chasing things in this hobby will just drive you crazy small adjustments and time work. Your tank is very very young you probably just got out of your cycle. So just coming out of your cycle your tank is going to go through a lot of changes as it matures. Deal with the ich in the qt tank for a few weeks leaving the display tank empty of fish so the ich dies off. The file fish even though a free gift from algae barn should have been declined but you got it so let’s make sure it stays healthy and alive. I wouldn’t purchase anymore live stock until you have the display ready to House fish. As others have said copper treatment in the qt and in a month or two you’ll be ready to rehome your fish in the main display tank. Your test kit is just fine for a beginner tank and you’ll do fine with thems as thousands of other reefers have over the years. Research everything I mean everything you plan to do to the tank or add to the tank. Trust me rushing anything in this hobby you’ll ruin the experience you could be having which is so enjoyable. Ask questions here if you don’t understand ask for it to be explained till you understand there is a wealth of knowledge and experience on this site soak it up like a pineapple sponge.
 
1. Buy a new, larger tank for your DT(50 gal +). Spend $50-100 on craig's list. You can put your live rock, sand, and invertebrates in there while you deal with the ich. Your 20 gal is too small to be anything other than a hospital tank for your fish.
2. Turn the existing 20 gal tank into a copper tank. Leave one of the HOB filters online so you still have a cycle and use cupramine to finally cure your fish of ich. Paraguard will not cure ich.

Do these things and you will be on your way.

Be sure to read the info linked to by others here on how to successfully cure ich with copper.
 
anything below 20 gallons isn't even worthy of fish maybe a goby
Getting a smaller tank will be harder to keep stable and cost more money. Stick with the 20 gal. You have gotten a lot of good advice in this thread. Read more from R2R sticky threads to learn more about the hobby, you don't need to spend more money to get things to to settle down.
 
Actually - I think the anti API test thing is a total myth. Firstly there is no evidence that the 'accuracy' that Hanna checkers etc provide is necessary lol - the people that post 'my alk went from 8 to 8.3' what should I do - seem 'wrong' to me. There is a +- to every test those of you that want to react to a .1 change in ALK - more power to you - but good luck as ell.

Ok, I wasn’t talking about the Hanna I was talking more like Salifert, etc.
 
The aptasia eating kind. I haven't looked how big he gets but if he gets too big I'll give him to my store. I actually won him from algae barn giveaway

Best fish for eating Aiptasia is hands down the Copperband Butterfly. The only issue is, once they eat all the nems, they tend to starve to death if you can't find a suitable substitute.
 
Tank does not look bad. Chasing around for possible parasite and moving fish from display to 3.5g to 10g tank was more stress than help.
Take a step back, repack the 10g QT and do not stock any fish in display for at least 4-6 weeks in the event of any parasite or cysts in the display. You may apply sm dose of PraziPro to display weekly while you wait to reintroduce livestock. In the mean time, utilize QT for any new fish until they're ready for display tank.
 
I work on my local fish store in a lot of people come through ask the advice and are quick to jump the gun without much information. I always told newbies that if you want to be successful and this hobby then you need to start from the bottom and go to good foundation. I noticed you have hang on back filters on your Reef. That's the first mistake. You need ample amount of water filtration through biological media. You need a sump. Secondly why are you bothering measuring for Trace elements? Just do a simple 10% water change weekly and you won't have any issues with any elements. your serenity is fluctuating because you don't have an automatic top off. You definitely need that. And last but not least, start getting better test kits. I recommend sulfur. All you really need is a phosphate and nitrate kit to start off with. I believe quarantine systems are a waste of time unless you have the space and money to keep one running constantly. If you just start one up when the fish is sick then the water quality will not be good enough for the fish to heal.I highly recommend taking the time and money to upgrade your system before you start getting any more livestock because at this point it's only a matter off when did will die not if
 
Best fish for eating Aiptasia is hands down the Copperband Butterfly. The only issue is, once they eat all the nems, they tend to starve to death if you can't find a suitable substitute.
I have a 20 gallon tank I can't have a butterfly lol
 
I work on my local fish store in a lot of people come through ask the advice and are quick to jump the gun without much information. I always told newbies that if you want to be successful and this hobby then you need to start from the bottom and go to good foundation. I noticed you have hang on back filters on your Reef. That's the first mistake. You need ample amount of water filtration through biological media. You need a sump. Secondly why are you bothering measuring for Trace elements? Just do a simple 10% water change weekly and you won't have any issues with any elements. your serenity is fluctuating because you don't have an automatic top off. You definitely need that. And last but not least, start getting better test kits. I recommend sulfur. All you really need is a phosphate and nitrate kit to start off with. I believe quarantine systems are a waste of time unless you have the space and money to keep one running constantly. If you just start one up when the fish is sick then the water quality will not be good enough for the fish to heal.I highly recommend taking the time and money to upgrade your system before you start getting any more livestock because at this point it's only a matter off when did will die not if
2. I can't have a sump because of where I live and sorry I don't have $150 laying around for a ATO. 3. I see tons of people with successful reef tanks who use hob equipment ONLY. Once I save more I will be buying a reef octopus hang on skimmer and I'm building a hang on refugium. It's the same as having a all in one tank. 4. Most of my filtration is biological anyway, I have about 35 lbs of rock in a 20 gallon tank. 5. I agree with you on the qt. I learned by my mistake because my fish died. My other 2 fish are fine now though so I'll just wait 3 weeks until I put them back in. I didn't ask for a list of things I need to buy I asked for advice and tips of things I can do to help me and make due with what I have.
 
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I have a 20 gallon tank I can't have a butterfly lol

Agree, 20G is a bit small for a Copperband, however, you should be able to deal with nusiance nems a bit easier than if you had a large reef tank. I would recommend removing the rock from the tank and treating the affected areas with calc paste or Aiptasia X or similar stuff.
 
Getting a smaller tank will be harder to keep stable and cost more money. Stick with the 20 gal. You have gotten a lot of good advice in this thread. Read more from R2R sticky threads to learn more about the hobby, you don't need to spend more money to get things to to settle down.
Thank you. I see alot of people running really successful low budget low tech tanks but some people on the thread just give me a list of very expensive things I 'need' to buy when I ask for advice on how I can make due with what I have. I appreciate it when people like you understand that some people are poor but want a reef tank so they just give good advice lol. and do you think I'll be ok with this plan: save up and get some salifert tests, start a diy refugium (I have everything set up except a light and I need chaeto).
 
Agree, 20G is a bit small for a Copperband, however, you should be able to deal with nusiance nems a bit easier than if you had a large reef tank. I would recommend removing the rock from the tank and treating the affected areas with calc paste or Aiptasia X or similar stuff.
I never even said I had aptasia I just got a filefish for free in a giveaway lol. thanks for advice though if I ever get aptasia I'll know what to do now
 
1. Buy a new, larger tank for your DT(50 gal +). Spend $50-100 on craig's list. You can put your live rock, sand, and invertebrates in there while you deal with the ich. Your 20 gal is too small to be anything other than a hospital tank for your fish.
2. Turn the existing 20 gal tank into a copper tank. Leave one of the HOB filters online so you still have a cycle and use cupramine to finally cure your fish of ich. Paraguard will not cure ich.

Do these things and you will be on your way.

Be sure to read the info linked to by others here on how to successfully cure ich with copper.

? A 20 gal can make a nice tank. If he just wants a clown and a few small fish there is no reason to go bigger.
 
Best fish for eating Aiptasia is hands down the Copperband Butterfly. The only issue is, once they eat all the nems, they tend to starve to death if you can't find a suitable substitute.

Actually I would lean towards Berghia Nudibrach to take care of Aiptasia....A Copperband in that size tank will not work period. But honestly, as previously stated...take a step back and start dealing with any tank problems in order of potential damaging results to your livestock etc.... Once you have this under control and ZERO Ammonia always, and other tank parameters are within specs, I would re-home the filefish (once you are sure it is disease free, buy the clown a mate, and after 8 months or so maybe introduce a BTA in there and call it good. I have a small 20g tank running in another room in my house with 2 Black Clowns in it and it is a very nice little set up....I love my main 255g tank but my wife wanted her own "office space" relaxer so that's what it is and it works quite well. Take your time...IMHO they (your fish) did not come begging for a new home and we sort of owe it to them to make it as nice and healthy as possible. A 20g really does not need to be expensive to operate as I have mine cleaned by a Fluval 406 canister filter.....Works perfectly. Again ZERO Ammonia and ZERO Nitrites or the fish are just suffering for no good reason.
 
Thank you. I see alot of people running really successful low budget low tech tanks but some people on the thread just give me a list of very expensive things I 'need' to buy when I ask for advice on how I can make due with what I have. I appreciate it when people like you understand that some people are poor but want a reef tank so they just give good advice lol. and do you think I'll be ok with this plan: save up and get some salifert tests, start a diy refugium (I have everything set up except a light and I need chaeto).
Yes, but the refugium will need a good light to out compete algae in the tank. BRStv just did 3 good videos of chaeto growth in refugiums. Check them out first. The other thing you should put on the priority list is a cheap circulating pump to improve water flow. You can find small ones for a 20 gal for about $30. From the picture it looks like you just have two hang on box (HOB) filters and that probably does not generate enough flow. That can wait until you start buying more fish and coral which you shouldn't rush into just yet. Let things settle in. Then stick with easy fish and easy soft corals as a start
 
I would relax and breathe.
Everyone here is very nice and helpful, even though I haven’t posted anything yet (this is actually my first time) I read EVERYTHING and listen to the advice given to others.

I was very big on testing my water every other day but reading some posts & seeing how other people test their waters, I rarely use my “Master test kit” now. Wait.... don’t get me wrong, I still test my water! I just test with different now. The result papers were a bit hard to match the color(s) so I got some checkers and a refractometer (salinity tester)


The tank is nice and I don’t see any algae.
 
Actually I would lean towards Berghia Nudibrach to take care of Aiptasia....A Copperband in that size tank will not work period. But honestly, as previously stated...take a step back and start dealing with any tank problems in order of potential damaging results to your livestock etc.... Once you have this under control and ZERO Ammonia always, and other tank parameters are within specs, I would re-home the filefish (once you are sure it is disease free, buy the clown a mate, and after 8 months or so maybe introduce a BTA in there and call it good. I have a small 20g tank running in another room in my house with 2 Black Clowns in it and it is a very nice little set up....I love my main 255g tank but my wife wanted her own "office space" relaxer so that's what it is and it works quite well. Take your time...IMHO they (your fish) did not come begging for a new home and we sort of owe it to them to make it as nice and healthy as possible. A 20g really does not need to be expensive to operate as I have mine cleaned by a Fluval 406 canister filter.....Works perfectly. Again ZERO Ammonia and ZERO Nitrites or the fish are just suffering for no good reason.
in my main tank everything is at 0. My pH is 8 and alk is 7 the GSP closed up cause the alk was low so I put some aquavitro eight.four in there. If that doesn't raise alk well I will dose baking soda lol. Also, when you said re-home him do you mean give the filefish away or put him in my DT. I just started treating QT with cupramine because I read paraguard is what fish stores use to hide parasites. Anyway, for fish in my DT I was just planning on getting the clown a buddy and keeping the filefish and maybe a goby and a damsel or something. I want to focus mainly on soft and lps corals for this tank because I want to learn how to grow them. Once I move in a few years. I'm gonna set up a big tank so I'm learning as much as I can now with the 20 gal. I'm a student so I have alot of other things to pay for but I know it's possible to have a cheap tank.
 
Yes, but the refugium will need a good light to out compete algae in the tank. BRStv just did 3 good videos of chaeto growth in refugiums. Check them out first. The other thing you should put on the priority list is a cheap circulating pump to improve water flow. You can find small ones for a 20 gal for about $30. From the picture it looks like you just have two hang on box (HOB) filters and that probably does not generate enough flow. That can wait until you start buying more fish and coral which you shouldn't rush into just yet. Let things settle in. Then stick with easy fish and easy soft corals as a start
I have a 550 gph powerhead
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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