Interesting setup idea! I've been using the AquaClear/Fluval HOB's for a long, long time, I much prefer them to anything, including the SeaChem tidal, which I get is self-priming. But in my experience it is rare - though not impossible - that an AquaClear HOB doesn't just simply restart after a power outage. Usually, there's enough water in the filter to get it going again on it's own.
Help to decide Sump and layout or go with canister
- Thread starter Klewtz
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- equipement help refuge sump
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Life kind of sucks right now lol! $300 for a Fluval FX LOL!Tank is not prefilled therefore overflow box needed and those are not cheap and not self priming. Long term. Canister still cheaper overall as leaks can be contained by placing a pan underneath and no worries that during power outage that sump might overflow if it wasn't' first setup correctly. Less evaporation as well.
Haven't dealt with overflows for non-drilled tanks since the 90s but that's what I recall about why I decided against going with them and ran undergravel first tank and canister next. Couldn't afford a reef ready tank. Life sucked back then
I get you, I did kind of forget the overflow, which does add to everything, but I still think that's the best way to go if you were starting from nothing. Everyone should definitely do what makes them happy and what their budget allows.
GARRIGA
2500 Club Member
BTW, don't need an FX4 for a 55. FX2 good enough which is a few bucks less and more likely to fit underneath that stand.
Could also run the 07 series which is closer to $200 and both can be found on sale.
Can also ignore the HOB. Unless Fuge sought.
Sumps have their place but not a pure necessity and does need to be evaluated to the application. Keep it simple out weights a few extra dollars. Especially considering the potential safety aspect.
Could also run the 07 series which is closer to $200 and both can be found on sale.
Can also ignore the HOB. Unless Fuge sought.
Sumps have their place but not a pure necessity and does need to be evaluated to the application. Keep it simple out weights a few extra dollars. Especially considering the potential safety aspect.
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GARRIGA
2500 Club Member
No experience with the AquaClear and just assumed that be the case. Last time I ran that type of HOB with pump outside the tank was the 70s. Good to know that's not a concern. Ergonomically better option over the Tidal which when clogged will overflow and I've had that happen and lucky it didn't get into the outlet. That could have been painful.
Is that a concern with the AquaClear overflowing when clogged? Never know when a weekend escape goes longer than planned.
One other reasons for using just the canister being that's one less pumps drawing power or needing maintenance. Should I have a power outage that's key. Plus I'd rather have the return spread of the AquaClear for gas exchange and with no other pipes in the water makes for a cleaner look.
In my experience, when an AC gets clogged the water will back up and come out over where the intake tube is, I've never had one start to leak outside the system or anything like that. But that's largely based on running them in freshwater and with just the sponges and bio media of my choice. If you mod one to be a 'fuge or if you want to run your canister filter to and from an AC HOB, your milage may certainly vary.
GARRIGA
2500 Club Member
Something else to consider. Nothing outside a reactor will polish the water as effectively for both mechanical and chemical like a canister. Only solution with sumps is to buy a reactor and dedicated pump or plumb a manifold adding further complexity and costs. Beats having to use coral snow to clarify water.
