Help! What does my fish have???

ronsgirl520

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I just got this fish a week ago. He is in my QT tank. He hasn't eaten anything and stays hiding. His color was great when I got him. He eyes are still clear and his side fins look clear. He has rapid breathing but tangs are somewhat known for that. Today he has started to look discolored on his body and his tail fin (not sure what the correct name for that is). Haven't tried RO dipping him yet as I'm scared it will stress him and kill him faster.

Before I medicate I'd like to hear what you all think he has. I'm guessing velvet but I'm not sure :-( I've had my UV sterilizer on and increased oxygen levels. Please help!
 
Last edited:
Here's a picture of him...

image.jpeg
 
It's hard to say without a picture. I would guess flukes right off the bat though. Try the dip. It wont kill a fish that isn't on death's doorstep. Your UV isn't going to help you much as this point.

edit: i see the picture now :)
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
 
It's not usual for naso tangs to look splotchy on their body. I would perform the FW dip, as outlined above. If no flukes are present, I would assume parasites are in his gills and treat with either copper or chloroquine phosphate.
 
Thanks! I've prepped for an RO dip and balanced the pH. I've been oxygenating it for about 15 min so will wait a bit longer to dip him. I've dipped fish before hate stressing them out. I hope it helps him! So do you think he has velvet by looking at him?
 
So do you think he has velvet by looking at him?

I think those are just stress spots. Typically when a fish has velvet their skin will darken in the affected areas just before trophonts appear (see below).



 
I agree. I dont think this is velvet.
 
He looks worse today. Kept the lights off all day too :-(. Fins are starting to look bad. Maybe it's bacterial? Thoughts??

image.jpeg


image.jpeg


image.jpeg


Did you do the FW dip? It's a great way to diagnose the problem. Set up your QT and get him in there ASAP. Before he goes into QT do the dip and check back in with us with the results.
 
Did you do the FW dip? It's a great way to diagnose the problem. Set up your QT and get him in there ASAP. Before he goes into QT do the dip and check back in with us with the results.

No, I didn't end up dipping him because if it was just from stress I was scared I'd stress him out more. I decided to turn the lights off and put a towel over the tank and see how he looked today. He's way worse. It's definitely more than stress spots. He is currently in my QT tank. I bought him a week ago so he went straight in there. I've delt with bacterial infections before and he is definitely starting to show more signs of that. Any medications you recommend that have worked well for you? I've had good luck with furan 2 and mardel marycin. At this point he'll be lucky to make it through the night but want to pre treat/protect the 2 other fish in QT with him I bought at the same time. Thanks for your advice! Much appreciated!!
 
Keeping the lights off isn't helping. You need to keep everything the same. the light schedule, water changes, temp... all the same if you want to reduce stress. Fish need stability and consistency in everything.

How to treat a bacterial infection:
First off, there are many things you can do to prevent a bacterial infection from happening in the first place. Some of these include:
  • Maintaining a proper environment (i.e. clean water) for your fish to live in.
  • Separating two quarrelling fish before cuts/wounds get too serious.
  • Utilizing proper nutrition (i.e. nori, foods high in protein), and soaking fish food with vitamin supplements (examples: Selcon, Zoecon, Vita-chem; or even Omega-3 fish oil - props to Paul B for the fish oil recommendation). These will help boost your fish’s natural immune system.
  • Utilizing a fish QT - to prevent parasites and other nasties (including harmful gram negative bacteria) from being introduced into your DT. This will alleviate the possibility of a "secondary" bacterial infection popping up while the fish's immune system is already compromised from battling parasites.
  • Running a UV sterilizer may help in certain situations, as that will lower the overall number of harmful bacteria found in the water column.
When to medicate: Sometimes all the vitamins, proper nutrition and clean water are just not enough. Sometimes a fish's natural immune system needs a helping hand (like our own). When to QT and pull the trigger on using antibiotics is not an easy decision; it's a judgment call.

As a general rule, I only pull & treat if: a) The fish looks really bad or b) It is a newly acquired fish showing signs of infection. The latter is an easy call for me as I QT all new fish anyway. Below is a list of antibiotic medications you can use. It is not a comprehensive list by any means, but just some readily available options. Whatever medication you go with, be sure it contains broad spectrum or wide spectrum antibiotics capable of treating both gram-positive and gram-negative bacterial diseases.
  • Kanamycin (ex. Seachem Kanaplex)
  • Furan-2
  • Nitrofuracin Green Powder (Great for treating “red sores” commonly seen on butterflyfish and some angelfish. It is also useful for healing wounds and treating ammonia burn.)
  • Erythromycin & Minocycline combination (ex. Maracyn 1 & 2). If you are confident it is just a gram positive infection, then API E.M. Erythromycin is a good choice.
  • Maracyn Plus (No actual experience, and I have read not so good reviews.)
  • For really bad infections, I advocate combining metronidazole (ex. Seachem MetroPlex), Furan-2 and Kanaplex to achieve a very broad spectrum of treatment. Props to “hedgedrew” for enlightening me of this.
Although it is not optimal to do so, you can combine antibiotics with copper treatment or Chloroquine phosphate. Since I do not use hyposalinity to treat Ich, I have no experience using antibiotics in hypo conditions. I do not recommend mixing Prazipro with antibiotics, or any other medication for that matter. It is important to remember that every medication you use depletes the water of oxygen. Combining meds just exacerbates this. Therefore, it isabsolutely imperative to provide additional gas exchange when treating.

DO NOT overdose antibiotics; if in doubt, always underdose. Antibiotics can be harsh on and even kill certain fish; although appetite suppression is much more common. Some advocate just applying antibiotic ointment to the affected area(s) topically, but I have zero experience doing that with fish. Antibiotics will kill some of the nitrifying bacteria in your bio-filter, but rarely wipes them all out to the point where you see an ammonia spike. However, for this reason and the negative impact antibiotics can have on corals/inverts, I strongly discourage their use in a DT.
 
Keeping the lights off isn't helping. You need to keep everything the same. the light schedule, water changes, temp... all the same if you want to reduce stress. Fish need stability and consistency in everything.

How to treat a bacterial infection:
First off, there are many things you can do to prevent a bacterial infection from happening in the first place. Some of these include:
  • Maintaining a proper environment (i.e. clean water) for your fish to live in.
  • Separating two quarrelling fish before cuts/wounds get too serious.
  • Utilizing proper nutrition (i.e. nori, foods high in protein), and soaking fish food with vitamin supplements (examples: Selcon, Zoecon, Vita-chem; or even Omega-3 fish oil - props to Paul B for the fish oil recommendation). These will help boost your fish’s natural immune system.
  • Utilizing a fish QT - to prevent parasites and other nasties (including harmful gram negative bacteria) from being introduced into your DT. This will alleviate the possibility of a "secondary" bacterial infection popping up while the fish's immune system is already compromised from battling parasites.
  • Running a UV sterilizer may help in certain situations, as that will lower the overall number of harmful bacteria found in the water column.
When to medicate: Sometimes all the vitamins, proper nutrition and clean water are just not enough. Sometimes a fish's natural immune system needs a helping hand (like our own). When to QT and pull the trigger on using antibiotics is not an easy decision; it's a judgment call.

As a general rule, I only pull & treat if: a) The fish looks really bad or b) It is a newly acquired fish showing signs of infection. The latter is an easy call for me as I QT all new fish anyway. Below is a list of antibiotic medications you can use. It is not a comprehensive list by any means, but just some readily available options. Whatever medication you go with, be sure it contains broad spectrum or wide spectrum antibiotics capable of treating both gram-positive and gram-negative bacterial diseases.
  • Kanamycin (ex. Seachem Kanaplex)
  • Furan-2
  • Nitrofuracin Green Powder (Great for treating “red sores” commonly seen on butterflyfish and some angelfish. It is also useful for healing wounds and treating ammonia burn.)
  • Erythromycin & Minocycline combination (ex. Maracyn 1 & 2). If you are confident it is just a gram positive infection, then API E.M. Erythromycin is a good choice.
  • Maracyn Plus (No actual experience, and I have read not so good reviews.)
  • For really bad infections, I advocate combining metronidazole (ex. Seachem MetroPlex), Furan-2 and Kanaplex to achieve a very broad spectrum of treatment. Props to “hedgedrew” for enlightening me of this.
Although it is not optimal to do so, you can combine antibiotics with copper treatment or Chloroquine phosphate. Since I do not use hyposalinity to treat Ich, I have no experience using antibiotics in hypo conditions. I do not recommend mixing Prazipro with antibiotics, or any other medication for that matter. It is important to remember that every medication you use depletes the water of oxygen. Combining meds just exacerbates this. Therefore, it isabsolutely imperative to provide additional gas exchange when treating.

DO NOT overdose antibiotics; if in doubt, always underdose. Antibiotics can be harsh on and even kill certain fish; although appetite suppression is much more common. Some advocate just applying antibiotic ointment to the affected area(s) topically, but I have zero experience doing that with fish. Antibiotics will kill some of the nitrifying bacteria in your bio-filter, but rarely wipes them all out to the point where you see an ammonia spike. However, for this reason and the negative impact antibiotics can have on corals/inverts, I strongly discourage their use in a DT.

Extremely valuable information! Thank you! I will have to save this for future reference as I'm sure it won't be the last time I get a sick fishy. I like to QT everything as well for this very reason. I've had major oxygen pumping into the tank since I got him a week ago and just added Furan-2. I had it in hand and it's worked for me in the past. Maybe he will be my miracle fish and pull through. Either way, I do appreciate your guidance!
 
I'm still not understanding what the lights off has to do with anything?


I was told it could help reduce stress. It actually seemed to help a little when I did. He would hide and not move unless the lights were off. Then he would come out. I understand fish like stability and not changing things up in them but I read in numerous places to turn the lights off. You know how it goes...so many opinions in this hobby
 
Actually I just had a tank get wiped with velvet and that's what this looks like to me especially considering how fast it's progressing. Get it out of there in a qt and get copper up to therapeutic levels ASAP. Doing this saved a few of my fish but that's really bad he may be gone.

The copper might kill it too but if that happens good chance it was going to die anyway. Quick increase of copper to battle velvet is a harsh choice but the lesser of two evils. 24 hours is a LIFETIME for velvet you must act fast.
 
@Humblefish agree?

It's got ich or velvet I would say. My naso never had stress spots like THAT in all the years I've kept them except when they got velvet or very bad ich?
 
@Humblefish agree?

It's got ich or velvet I would say. My naso never had stress spots like THAT in all the years I've kept them except when they got velvet or very bad ich?

I do. The fish no doubt now has a bacterial infection, but those are often secondary in nature to a preexisting parasitic infestation such as ich or velvet.

I would treat with copper (exs. Cupramine, Coppersafe, Copper Power), and also this combination of antibiotics: Furan-2, Seachem Kanaplex and Seachem Metroplex (or Metro-MS). If you can't get all 3, at least try to get the Furan-2 or Kanaplex.

I also strongly suggest you give this fish a FW dip (see below). This will confirm whether or not flukes are also in play here, and provide the fish with some temporary relief just in case he has velvet.
 
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
 

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