Help with Algea Control!

[Bradlas]

Hi all, I'm about 12 months into my 75 gallon reef. This tank was an upgrade from a 36 bow front. I am running into algea problems and see little coral growth. I am really not sure where to go from here. I have had algea for the past 4 months now and can't seem to kick it.

Tank equipment:
20 gallon sump
Reef octo 150sss skimmer
filter socks and filtersponges
Carbon (changed every 2 weeks)
4 AI Prime 16hd's (Running AB+ at 40%)
2 Current Eflux 1250 gph and 2 hydor koralia 565.
Jebao dosing pump

Tank stock:
Fish are all less than 2-3 inches long
1 clownfish
1 six line wrasse
1 yellow tang
1 bicolor angel
1 Anthias
1Coral Banded Shrimp
1Emerald crab
3 Trochis snails
2 Mexican Turbo snail
8 RBTA (They seem to like splitting every 3 months)

Coral:
Elegance Coral (doing well)
Hammer Coral (went from 5 polyps to 12 small polyps in last 3 months)
Green Torch (large and happy)
Monti Frag (just got it but has grown a little)
Octo Spawn (single head frag and steady growth)
Purple Xenia (no growth)
Blue mushroom (no growth)
2 Zoa frags (barely grows a polyp every two months)
Birdsnest (not doing well at all, dying)

My parameters:
Feeding Reef Frenzy once a day. (Small piece less than the size of a dime).

Ca- stays between 420 and 430 over a ten day period.

Dkh- Between 8.6 and 9.2 over a ten day period.

Mg- usually 1360 - 1400.

PO4 and NO3 keep reading 0.

Oh and my latest attempt to get rid of the algea was to scrub all the rock in a bucket of RODI and then do 20% water changes for 2 weeks every 3 days. After attempting this, it is now 2 weeks later and the algea has come right back. I have checked my RODI and replaced all filters just in case it has PO4 in water.

Any and all thoughts are appreciated. I'm still pretty new to this and very open to ideas.

 

[Macbalacano]

For this size of tank, I think you definitely need a bigger CUC. I'd recommend, ceriths, nassarius snails, a conch, trochus snails etc..

I think your nitrates and phosphates reading 0 are because it's currently in the algae.

Have you tried removing as much as possible by hand?

 

[Bradlas]

Thanks for the response. Yes, I have siphoned it off the rocks and even netted what was floating around the tank during cleaning. After that didn't work, I decided to try scrubbing it all off in a bucket of RODI. I have removed algea probably 6 times in the last 2 months. It has been a ton of work.

 

[Macbalacano]

Thanks for the response. Yes, I have siphoned it off the rocks and even netted what was floating around the tank during cleaning. After that didn't work, I decided to try scrubbing it all off in a bucket of RODI. I have removed algea probably 6 times in the last 2 months. It has been a ton of work.

Ah I gotcha. How long does it take to get back to the level in the current photos?

Has the nitrates and phosphates been testing close to 0 this entire time you've had algae? What are you using to test?

What are you feeding or dosing into the tank?

Sorry for all the questions - just trying to get to the root of the problem

 

[Bradlas]

I appreciate it. It takes about 2 weeks and it's back. I usually test weekly with a Hanna. It just stays 0. I use brs 2 part. And I dose AB+ every three days and feed reef frenzy once a day.

 

[Macbalacano]

I appreciate it. It takes about 2 weeks and it's back. I usually test weekly with a Hanna. It just stays 0. I use brs 2 part. And I dose AB+ every three days and feed reef frenzy once a day.

Hmm Hanna for both Phosphates and Nitrates? Personally I'd try using another test (maybe have your LFS do it) to see if everything is accurate and matches up.

Ah to be honest with you it could be the AB+. I mean it's very anecdotal evidence, but I have been reading tons of posts the past couple of months of people using coral foods like that regularly and it causing them lots of algae problems. Maybe try cutting back on that?

Have you thought about setting up a fuge or algae scrubber? That might also help with excess nutrients to out-compete the algae.

Can't say what it exactly could be, but those are some ideas!

 

[Bradlas]

Ah I gotcha. How long does it take to get back to the level in the current photos?

Has the nitrates and phosphates been testing close to 0 this entire time you've had algae? What are you using to test?

What are you feeding or dosing into the tank?

Sorry for all the questions - just trying to get to

Hmm Hanna for both Phosphates and Nitrates? Personally I'd try using another test (maybe have your LFS do it) to see if everything is accurate and matches up.

Ah to be honest with you it could be the AB+. I mean it's very anecdotal evidence, but I have been reading tons of posts the past couple of months of people using coral foods like that regularly and it causing them lots of algae problems. Maybe try cutting back on that?

Have you thought about setting up a fuge or algae scrubber? That might also help with excess nutrients to out-compete the algae.

Can't say what it exactly could be, but those are some ideas!

I do have room for a fuge, I may give that a shot next and see how it goes. I'll try the AB+ first. Hopefully the corals will be okay. Thanks!

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hanna kits are reliable.
Is tank at or near a window?
When is last time you change RODI cartridges which may have a higher TDS ?

Reduce white light intensity, pull as much of the hair algae as you can by hand and add a pouch of chemipure elite which will keep phos in check. Based on your size tank, the following snails will attack remaining algae:

4 turbo
4 astrea
3 Trochus
3 cerith
4 nassarius
8-10 blue leg hermits (these are tiny)

AS AN OPTION, YOU CAN USE LIQUID VIBRANT DOSED AT 80% OF RECOMMENDED DOSAGE.
I agree that Red Sea A + B have been known to raise levels that promote algae. Do not add any for at least 10-12 days

 

[Bradlas]

Hanna kits are reliable.
Is tank at or near a window?
When is last time you change RODI cartridges which may have a higher TDS ?

Reduce white light intensity, pull as much of the hair algae as you can by hand and add a pouch of chemipure elite which will keep phos in check. Based on your size tank, the following snails will attack remaining algae:

4 turbo
4 astrea
3 Trochus
3 cerith
4 nassarius
8-10 blue leg hermits (these are tiny)

AS AN OPTION, YOU CANUSE LIQUID VIBRANT DOSED AT 80% OF RECOMMENDED DOSAGE.

RODI was changes a month ago as I suspected It was an issue but I think I ruled it out. My water comes in at 18 TDS and comes out 0. If I go the route of reducing phosphate do I have to do anything to help the corals or are they okay with that?

 

[KrisReef]

Is the algae everywhere, or just on some select rocks (that are probably bleeding Phosphate?)

 

[Bradlas]

Is the algae everywhere, or just on some select rocks (that are probably bleeding Phosphate?)

It is everywhere.

 

[vetteguy53081]

RODI was changes a month ago as I suspected It was an issue but I think I ruled it out. My water comes in at 18 TDS and comes out 0. If I go the route of reducing phosphate do I have to do anything to help the corals or are they okay with that?

Gradual is best why I recommended chemipure elite which will do that for you

 

[Bradlas]

Gradual is best why I recommended chemipure elite which will do that for you

Okay, I should have asked but does this appear to be GHA?

 

[KrisReef]

Okay, I should have asked but does this appear to be GHA?

Appears to be GHA, not the vicious Bryopsis or wire turf plague. Give it time. gl