Help with browning SPS

[Lavey29]

I also run my G4 XR30 pro at 100% but I have diffusers and run pretty blue. But montiporas are pretty forgiving when it comes to light.

I use diffusers too. Par meter only showed 15 to 20 par difference with and without them. AB setting is blue and uv with minimal white.

 

[Lavey29]

I rented a par meter from BRS a couple years ago and got the following results on AB+ at 100%. The mont is between the 197 and 450-500 on the left/middle. 60% should be giving it between 120-250.

Ideally your size tank needs 3 XR15 lights. If you get the opportunity run another par check. I have the vectra pump also and run it at 45% like you do. I have 2 MP40s that ramp up to 26% intensity on reefcrest during the day. This is plenty of flow for SPS dominant mixed reef tank. My MP40s are 3 inches below the surface. Yours are basically in the middle side panel. I would try raising them and setting so you go maybe 40% reef crest during the day. I used to run 42% but since I slowed down last year corals took off.

 

[Lavey29]

IMO flow numbers (GPH per hour) are far less important than what the flow is doing and where it’s going. Watch the polyps and see what they are doing if the have no movement at all they aren’t getting enough flow. I had a smaller tank that looked good on paper @ 50gph turnover. I got a wave maker and was down to less than 30 gph turnover and my sunset monti looked better in days.

Exactly and even more so in a mixed reef tank.

 

[19frank90]

Ideally your size tank needs 3 XR15 lights. If you get the opportunity run another par check. I have the vectra pump also and run it at 45% like you do. I have 2 MP40s that ramp up to 26% intensity on reefcrest during the day. This is plenty of flow for SPS dominant mixed reef tank. My MP40s are 3 inches below the surface. Yours are basically in the middle side panel. I would try raising them and setting so you go maybe 40% reef crest during the day. I used to run 42% but since I slowed down last year corals took off.

You don’t get the vortex above the MP40s running them that close to the surface?

 

[Lavey29]

You don’t get the vortex above the MP40s running them that close to the surface?

No, the randomness of reefcrest I think prevents that but it allows SPS to get the strong flow and corals middle tank moderate flow and lower flow at the bottom. A strong surface ripple is good for the tank gas exchange.

 

[k2-]

Browning could be due to several ways - for me, all corals are fine except one which is happily growing /encrusting but not coloring up but all others are.

1) Try to do a ICP - sometimes trace elements are the issue
2) Sometimes its flow/light - the best bet is to try to move the coral in question
3) Nitrate and phosphate could be 0 but if there are fish in the system they are virtual 0 (what is produced is consumed) which is an entirely different issue but I would call it the cause of the browning.

If it is for the complete tank and all the corals definitely and most likely the water quality issue - please do try ICP test and see what comes up.

Usually flow and light can be issues when its inadequate but your case doesn't qualify for one because there is enough of everything and all are quality (like right spectrum and right flow) may be perhaps try to change a bit in intensity but will it make everything start coloring up I might be doubtful

 

[19frank90]

Browning could be due to several ways - for me, all corals are fine except one which is happily growing /encrusting but not coloring up but all others are.

1) Try to do a ICP - sometimes trace elements are the issue
2) Sometimes its flow/light - the best bet is to try to move the coral in question
3) Nitrate and phosphate could be 0 but if there are fish in the system they are virtual 0 (what is produced is consumed) which is an entirely different issue but I would call it the cause of the browning.

If it is for the complete tank and all the corals definitely and most likely the water quality issue - please do try ICP test and see what comes up.

Usually flow and light can be issues when its inadequate but your case doesn't qualify for one because there is enough of everything and all are quality (like right spectrum and right flow) may be perhaps try to change a bit in intensity but will it make everything start coloring up I might be doubtful

I think, in order of priority:
1. New heater today
2. Dose NeoPhos
3. Move my MP40s up and entirely to reef crest? Right now they alternate reef crest and gyre
4. Look into a UV sterilizer
5. Third Radion

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

I think, in order of priority:
1. New heater today
2. Dose NeoPhos
3. Move my MP40s up and entirely to reef crest? Right now they alternate reef crest and gyre
4. Look into a UV sterilizer
5. Third Radion

do you have a heater controller? I know you said something says 85° but actual temp is 70° how do you regulate temperature?

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

this is how tight I keep my temp I run higher temperature and use cooling fans to lower the temp, my heater almost never runs.

 

[19frank90]

do you have a heater controller? I know you said something says 85° but actual temp is 70° how do you regulate temperature?

Not an actual controller like inkbird. It’s just the “control” on the finnex hmx heater itself. I’ve ordered a 500w Innovative Marine Helio but I want to hit the LFS this afternoon to see if they have it (or something comparable sooner than Tuesday when the IM would arrive)

 

[Lavey29]

Not an actual controller like inkbird. It’s just the “control” on the finnex hmx heater itself. I’ve ordered a 500w Innovative Marine Helio but I want to hit the LFS this afternoon to see if they have it (or something comparable sooner than Tuesday when the IM would arrive)

I use helio also. They are bullet proof but get 2 elements instead of one for redundancy. The temp sensor and control board 9n the IM is excellent

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Not an actual controller like inkbird. It’s just the “control” on the finnex hmx heater itself. I’ve ordered a 500w Innovative Marine Helio but I want to hit the LFS this afternoon to see if they have it (or something comparable sooner than Tuesday when the IM would arrive)

imo I'd get some kind of controller, the ink bird is a good entry into having better control, I use a ranco heater controller that is controlled and monitored by the hydros. seeing the swings on a graph shows just how wild on board thermostats are on most heaters, they are not very reliable. you'd be surprised how canceling out temperature swings helps stability and can allow other swings to not be as detrimental to coral, example maybe a alk swing with stable temp compared to alk swing with temp swing or 5 other swings combined....locking down temperature and salinity are 2 very easy things to get tight and can help dramatically when other things are going on...just my opinion

 

[19frank90]

I use helio also. They are bullet proof but get 2 elements instead of one for redundancy. The temp sensor and control board 9n the IM is excellent

Would you recommend one 500w or 2 200w?

 

[Lavey29]

Would you recommend one 500w or 2 200w?

I run 2. They are small and compact and easy to fit in the sump.

 

[19frank90]

I run 2. They are small and compact and easy to fit in the sump.

The heaters came today and setup was simple. Quick question - do you have the sensor in the sump with the heaters or in the display?

 

[Propane]

Put it as far down the flow line from the heater as you can. Then check the display to see if it’s what you want.

 

[Lavey29]

The heaters came today and setup was simple. Quick question - do you have the sensor in the sump with the heaters or in the display?

In the sump but different chamber from heaters

 

[Lavey29]

I ran a second temp probe in the DT for quite awhile to make sure sump and tank Temps were consistent and they were never off with the IM helio system. Now I don't use the DT temp probe any longer.