Help with chiller & diy temp controll
- Thread starter knap_123
- Start date
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twilliard
Tank pests..
I see your concept
If you are wanting to abandon all factory wiring the plug coming from the new temp controller has to wire to the compressor motor keeping in mind you may have freeze or flow limit controls (these interrupt the circuit in those conditions for compressor protection)
If you are wanting to abandon all factory wiring the plug coming from the new temp controller has to wire to the compressor motor keeping in mind you may have freeze or flow limit controls (these interrupt the circuit in those conditions for compressor protection)
TheEngineer
Formerly icecool2
I'd have similar concerns to @twilliard. That controller on the chiller likely has some built-in lockouts to protect your chiller's compressor. The reason it isn't coming on right away is likely because the power was interrupted and it has a delayed start of say 5 minutes just in case it was running and the power blinked on and off. I'm sure you could pull whatever wire drives the power relay to the compressor and run it from an external temperature controller, but you'd likely shorten the life of the compressor.
The chiller controller probably also has some "debouncing" controls in it too that prevent it from quickly cycling on and off due to inaccuracies of the temperature probe. My old heater controller clicks on and off several times before it finally settles one way or the other. That's a good way to kill a compressor.
Are you concerned that the chiller isn't working at the right temperature?
The chiller controller probably also has some "debouncing" controls in it too that prevent it from quickly cycling on and off due to inaccuracies of the temperature probe. My old heater controller clicks on and off several times before it finally settles one way or the other. That's a good way to kill a compressor.
Are you concerned that the chiller isn't working at the right temperature?
knap_123
Well-Known Member
Yes, the chiller as is will not work properly. If you set your temp to say 69°. Hit set and think it's working properly. The temp display on the control board will climb to 100+. But the water temp will drop to 40 or lower before I cut it off. So I researched and found this to be a good option. If need be ill just keep the chiller as is. And let it work like that. But of I can get rid of the factory control all together that will be better.
knap_123
Well-Known Member
TheEngineer
Formerly icecool2
Yep. My guess (and it is just a guess) is that there is a relay that gets flipped on by that control panel. If that really only has three wires going to it, two are power and ground, the third should be the signal line. Easy to figure out if you have a multimeter.
This all also assumes that whatever output your controller has is the same as what your chiller input is.
This all also assumes that whatever output your controller has is the same as what your chiller input is.
