Help with cyano and coral bleaching

[Leerph]

So about 6 months ago I converted my 500 gallon fowlr to a mixed reef. In the last week or so my red Monti and galaxy have started to bleach as shown. My Duncan has shrank way up as well. My bta has gotten much more translucent than when I got it. It's supposed to be a rose but now it's more of a green with pink tips. All other corals including gsp, mushrooms, hammer, and zoas still look fine. I had been battling high nitrates while my algae scrubber got going. I just did a test and all levels look good except my phosphate has dropped from. 08 all the way to 0.00 using Hannah checker. Nitrates went down from 35 to 30. I know that no phosphate can be bad and I found some info about it causing coral bleaching and possibly cyano. Any advise on what I should try? I'm thinking of dosing phosphate to see if it makes a difference.

 

[vetteguy53081]

You have cyanoand an array of colonial hydroids that are likely stinging the coral.
For hydroids, you can scrub them off IF safe to do so without harming coral and net/siphon tthem up OR direct water flow towards them, not at them
As for cyano, some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not deliver at the best efficiency or you do not have the proper rated protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient in which this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano and allow it to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Glenner’sreef]

You have cyanoand an array of colonial hydroids that are likely stinging the coral.
For hydroids, you can scrub them off IF safe to do so without harming coral and net/siphon tthem up OR direct water flow towards them, not at them
As for cyano, some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Hi Vetteguy, quick clarification if you don’t mind: you said one of the common causes include. And then you described how a Protein skimmer works. What were you meaning by that. Thx.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi Vetteguy, quick clarification if you don’t mind: you said one of the common causes include. And then you described how a Protein skimmer works. What were you meaning by that. Thx.

Hmm- that is confusing which I will fix. What this means is. . . . . When the protein skimmer does not output at the best efficiency or you do not have the proper rated protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient in which this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano and allow it to thrive.

 

[Glenner’sreef]

Hmm- that is confusing which I will fix. What this means is. . . . . When the protein skimmer does not output at the best efficiency or you do not have the proper rated protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient in which this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano and allow it to thrive.

Very good! Thx bud.