Help with dinos in fluval evo

[45ZoaGarden]

Looks like ive got some shopping to do then )

You can usually find syringes at medical supply stores for dirt cheap. Unfortunately they’re probably wiped out. I bought mine on amazon. 10 syringes with the tips for about $5

 

[Nicholas Dushynsky]

Try siphoning the sand bed into a filter sock and pour the water back into the tank. Stop all wc’s immediately. You might want to get something like dino x to help out. A cheato reactor and uv sterilizer helped me out but the Dino x is what kicked it.

That's what I've been doing on my evo.

 

[NS Mike D]

turkey baster

 

[BigOunce11]

OK, I think i'm going to get some NeoNitro and NeoPhos and start dosing them alongside either microbacter 7 and Dr Tim's waste away, or dino x . Havent read any good reviews regarding the innovative marine UV sterilizer so not sure its worth the £50. Which of these would be the best do you think, also is there an easy and effective way to increase nitrates and phosphates in the long term without dosing, as it seems slightly higher levels of each can be benefitial?

 

[BigOunce11]

Also, when this blip is sorted, I want something to replace my tangerine goby that suicide dived out before i had my lid, cant decide if another goby is the way ahead or some purple, either a royal gramma or some other small purple bling- any thoughts?

 

[45ZoaGarden]

Also, when this blip is sorted, I want something to replace my tangerine goby that suicide dived out before i had my lid, cant decide if another goby is the way ahead or some purple, either a royal gramma or some other small purple bling- any thoughts?

Royal grammas are nice but can be skittish. I’d get another fish or two and feed heavier.

 

[brandon429]

this tank could be easily, easily fixed with a total cleaning top to bottom. Nothing to buy, test, or wait for. small nanos are easily cleared of all invasions without working through the water, and without following the rules large tankers have imposed.

that being said, most people prefer the invasion lol vs the noninvaded one, earned by cheating. in the case of nano reefs, cheating is good, not bad

corals appreciate dino approaches that dont alter their water params for weeks on end, with various additions changing the oxygen commanding / nutrient levels/ all kinds of interactions etc.

it was apparent from pic #1 this tank would be easy to fix with disassembly cleaning and a full water change. its after pics would fit well into the 33 pages of after pics we've collected.

summary: you can get near total control over this tank in 24 hours.

tendency from forums: heck no, Id rather it take until August to maybe work. I do not want a tank placed under control in 24 hours, that's illegal.

 

[yOdaddy]

I had bought a UV and kick Dino out in 2 days. I ran it for 4 days just in case and planning to take it out today. And with people talking about how it kills pods, after putting the UV I saw a pod explosion on my glass that I didn’t see before. The ultimate question is will it return after removing UV. I had fed more to keep phosphate up. My corals were not doing good with all the Dino but the UV made it all open and happy. If you can’t battle the Dino with feeding and time or don’t want to use chemicals, UV is the way to go. Will be cranking up my lights to my little cheato I still have to clear up nutrients from the over feeding and hope to stabilize everything since the UV is going to be offline. Hope this helps.

 

[BigOunce11]

this tank could be easily, easily fixed with a total cleaning top to bottom. Nothing to buy, test, or wait for. small nanos are easily cleared of all invasions without working through the water, and without following the rules large tankers have imposed.

that being said, most people prefer the invasion lol vs the noninvaded one, earned by cheating. in the case of nano reefs, cheating is good, not bad

corals appreciate dino approaches that dont alter their water params for weeks on end, with various additions changing the oxygen commanding / nutrient levels/ all kinds of interactions etc.

it was apparent from pic #1 this tank would be easy to fix with disassembly cleaning and a full water change. its after pics would fit well into the 33 pages of after pics we've collected.

Please explain how thoroughly this must be done, because I did remove everything from the tank and clean it with fresh water and did a huge water change (basically 100%) only a few weeks ago. I didnt treat the rock or anything as didnt want to loose the bacteria, same with the bio media, but added new sand. Are you sure that starting dosing with an aim to find a long term source of SLIGHTLY elevated nutrients isnt a bad idea- as from what ive read it doesnt seem bad to have some more than i currently do.

Also many thanks for the contribution

 

[BigOunce11]

I had bought a UV and kick Dino out in 2 days. I ran it for 4 days just in case and planning to take it out today. And with people talking about how it kills pods, after putting the UV I saw a pod explosion on my glass that I didn’t see before. The ultimate question is will it return after removing UV. I had fed more to keep phosphate up. My corals were not doing good with all the Dino but the UV made it all open and happy. If you can’t battle the Dino with feeding and time or don’t want to use chemicals, UV is the way to go. Will be cranking up my lights to my little cheato I still have to clear up nutrients from the over feeding and hope to stabilize everything since the UV is going to be offline. Hope this helps.

What set up do you have? thx also 4 da reply

 

[45ZoaGarden]

Lol dinos won’t go away in 2 days. I don’t care if you put bleach in the tank. You also won’t see a pod explosion that quickly.

 

[brandon429]

We’re all vying to help thats why this forum so cool

your receptivity to consider options is good, you’ll beat it with willingness on your side.

my method cleans your whole sandbed all at once and does treat the rocks in a special way, that’s what’s missing. We don’t cause cycles, we fix small tanks like this.


but

before we put your tank under surgery you have work threads where you can evaluate your own patterns.


and for the rock, you work on solely a test rock. No full commitment till we verify it works on small scale.


the big clean job comes only after proofing.


my way unlike the others is far harsher lol but we only apply what works, we never guess, we test model first. All other control means have you affecting corals, via water guessing solutions. Thats a whole tank commit, mines safer.

can you remove one test rock and we do tricks to it, in your sink, which do not make it recycle but instead spot kills the targets?
after done, set back in tank and compare to the others as long as you want to compare, it will look better. When you’re ready for the other surfaces to stop contributing new growth to your good surfaces, we go.

 

[brandon429]

1. Did their targets persist or go away, in pattern here

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/xiholdtruex-29g-biocube-build-thread.696075/#post-7163040 Team, our example thread writer from above, Xiholdtruex, has started a new tank cloudlessly and he took time to document the exudate/detritus that comes off his live rocks being prepped, before the move...

www.reef2reef.com

read just last two pages for full examples of what we’d do to this tiny evo setup.

though we may indeed be dealing with dinos, which isn’t scope confirmed here, in basic pattern above aren’t rip cleaned tanks compliant?

its pages of happy outcomes. we tap rinse your sandbed, which is the same thing as someone choosing to go bare bottom, it’s not harmful at all anymore than someones awesome sps bare bottom reef is harmful. it would seem tap rinsing is bad, but that can’t be the takeaway after seeing two hundred rip clean outcomes.

based on spot assessing a bunch of reefs, your invasion can be manhandled successfully.


* cause the clean condition, then add your pods for diversity. Then adjust your nitrate and phosphates

not in the invaded condition, allowing invader mass in place... thats the way of the perpetually invaded.

for now we only want you to run a single test rock. Compare it’s sustain to the other areas, doing as you will to them via the water.


keep one test going where you are not guessing. if results are best, do it all but clean sand first.

all this lead up is so that you can fairly evaluate my claims, if you wanted the 24 job above oh we’d accomplish that lol. No test rocking, all done by 7 pm tonite lol

 

[BigOunce11]

1. Did their targets persist or go away, in pattern here

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/xiholdtruex-29g-biocube-build-thread.696075/#post-7163040 Team, our example thread writer from above, Xiholdtruex, has started a new tank cloudlessly and he took time to document the exudate/detritus that comes off his live rocks being prepped, before the move...

www.reef2reef.com

read just last two pages for full examples of what we’d do to this tiny evo setup.

though we may indeed be dealing with dinos, which isn’t scope confirmed here, in basic pattern above aren’t rip cleaned tanks compliant?

its pages of happy outcomes. we tap rinse your sandbed, which is the same thing as someone choosing to go bare bottom, it’s not harmful at all anymore than someones awesome sps bare bottom reef is harmful. it would seem tap rinsing is bad, but that can’t be the takeaway after seeing two hundred rip clean outcomes.

based on spot assessing a bunch of reefs, your invasion can be manhandled successfully.


* cause the clean condition, then add your pods for diversity. Then adjust your nitrate and phosphates

not in the invaded condition, allowing mass in place... thats the way of the masses.

for now we only want you to run a single test rock. Compare it’s sustain to the other areas, doing as you will to them via the water.


keep one test going where you are not guessing. if results are best, do it all but clean sand first.

OK buster give me the run down for the test rock

 

[brandon429]

we become the dentist, your rock is a bad tooth for now. Corals are gum zones we work around them by working in your sink like a reef dentist using dental tools and means.

peroxide

a rasp. Mines an old time pocket knife from 1979 it’s specifically better than other pocket knives

clean saltwater as the flush.

take the test area and detail it with steel. Debride, lift, scrape, be the urchin where it needs to be. Be saltwater flushing the scrapes and picks algae and dinos down the drain, you haven’t harmed corals and my dentist doesn’t rasp my gums too much, rasping is for adhered plaque and its force scraped out.

when your rock is harmlessly cleaned with steel and saltwater, apply drops of peroxide where the rock was scraped. This kills micro targets.

we never hurt your corals on test rock.

rinse test rock put back a perfect detail tooth into the evo jaw.

 

[yOdaddy]

What set up do you have? thx also 4 da reply

I had bought a cheap 7w UV on amazon and through it in one of the chambers in my biocube

 

[yOdaddy]

Lol dinos won’t go away in 2 days. I don’t care if you put bleach in the tank. You also won’t see a pod explosion that quickly.

May not worked in everyone’s tank but definitely mine. I was very impressed to be honest. Don’t have to take my word for it but it took away all the bubbles and slime. May take longer for big tanks. I have a 28 biocube.

 

[yOdaddy]

May not worked in everyone’s tank but definitely mine. I was very impressed to be honest. Don’t have to take my word for it but it took away all the bubbles and slime. May take longer for big tanks. I have a 28 biocube.

It’s actually funny no one believes me.

 

[BigOunce11]

It’s actually funny no one believes me.

bruv chill i believe u

 

[45ZoaGarden]

It’s actually funny no one believes me.

Probably because I know dinos don’t go away in 2 days. It was probably Cyanobacteria not dinos.