Help with euphylli

ashleyberg

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Temp: 78
Salinity 1.025
PH: 8.0-8.2
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0-5
Calcium: 460ppm
Alkalinity/dKH: 10dKH
Phosphate: 0

I’ve had these corals for 9 months, and they previously seemed to be doing great - splitting and growing. Then a bit over a month ago they seemed a little unhappy, and I was advised to raise Calcium and Alk. Brought those two up from 380ppm Calcium and 8dkH, to 460ppm Calcium and 10dkH. Also started feeding AB+ (which has caused a Dino outbreak :/ )
The only thing I haven’t been able to raise is Nitrates and Phosphates, no matter how much I feed or how long I go between water changes (max 2 weeks, small changes each time).

Any advice on saving these corals? I honestly don’t know what to do from here, and regret dosing to raise Calcium and Alk, because they’ve rapidly declined since then.
 
Over 9 months you should have seen significant splitting/growth on them. They like "dirtier" water, so you'll need to increase nutrients. They need PO4 and Nitrates, moderate water movement and light.
How many fish do you have? What size tank? How often/what are you feeding? What are you doing for waste/nutrient removal? All of these things play into having a thriving tank. It's not just about the above numbers.
 
What do you feed your tank? Trying bringing your alk down to where it was slowly over time.
 
Any advice on saving these corals?
You have 2 possible issues. Water quality and its not to clean. Or lighting too bright.

When in doubt, change the water out, do massive water changes as much as you can. When ever mine look bad, new clean water always perks them up.

To clean water never in 30 years, has never made my coral look like that, and I sell branching hammer professionally.
 
They need PO4 and Nitrates,
No they do not.
They like "dirtier" water
Yes they do, but clean water never makes them whither away like that. OP states upping alk and cal caused this. So something got unbalanced.

My water is as clean as it gets, and they are thriving and growing like weeds.
 
how long I go between water changes (max 2 weeks, small changes each time).
There is your problem, stop trying to raise those levels, and do some real water changes and they will perk up.

I do 1/3 total water volume monthly and use a small splash of vibrant weekly. feed a few flakes in the morning and evening. so on a 300g system, I do 100g water changes. Everyone is different and every tank has different needs. But my branching hammer is growing at amazing rates right now.
 
There is your problem, stop trying to raise those levels, and do some real water changes and they will perk up.

I do 1/3 total water volume monthly and use a small splash of vibrant weekly. feed a few flakes in the morning and evening. so on a 300g system, I do 100g water changes. Everyone is different and every tank has different needs. But my branching hammer is growing at amazing rates right now.
And I don't do waterchanges and have had amazing success as well. I do dose alk as well as AFR.
 
And I don't do waterchanges and have had amazing success as well. I do dose alk as well as AFR.
You will have a lot of short term success, but eventually you will crash your tank. Been doing this a long time, and have gone years without a single water change, and filled up a 210g tank in 2 years with branching hammer. But neglecting water changes eventually will catch up with you.

My point stands and its not up for debate. Clean water does not whither branching hammer away like OP is showing us. Your point correct, they do like dirty water as well as clean. But it will never cause harm.

This is what clean water grows.
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You will have a lot of short term success, but eventually you will crash your tank. Been doing this a long time,....
As have I. I think you and I are pretty close, I'm at 25+ years and I think you said 30 years. That's awesome!
This is what clean water grows.
Please, define what you consider "clean water".
 
What is age of tank ?
There a few things to know when it comes to any euphyllia care. Lighting and water flow very important when it comes to recession and polyp bailout.
I asked about age of tank because hammerand euphyllia require STABLE conditions. New tanks are subject to swings. One of them is calcium. If low or unstable, rarely will euphyllia survive. Location also important. If lights too bright or too dim- they will suffer. Loaction as far as flow is also important. Too much flow will destroy them over time. The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
Hammer is Not a starter coral and is a moderately challenging species to care for. The large and delicate polyps have a need for stable water parameters, moderate water flow, regular feedings, and the need to test for and maintain calcium levels above 400ppm which puts these great corals in the category of moderate care level.
Stability is key. No need to elevate numbers unless absolutely necessary
 
Please, define what you consider "clean water".
No algae. No detectable amounts of Nitrates or phos, I run carbon and gfo changed out monthly with the 100g water changes, also using a kalk reactor on my ATO and a GEO Ca reactor. Tank maintains itself 100% just 10 minute monthly water changes, and switch out gfo/carbon media in little container and pressure wash the 3 foot long filter sock. I think I only have 10 small fish so not a lot of waste being introduced. when ever I put chaeto in, or try a fuge, the stuff grows for 2 weeks and dies from lack of nutrients.
 
And I don't do waterchanges and have had amazing success as well. I do dose alk as well as AFR.
My euphyllia is having some issues after lowering nitrates from 20 to about 7 ppm and phosphates from above .10 ppm to about .05 ppm and I raised alk to 8.5 from 8.0...CA from 400 to 425. Might have just been too many swings recently and/or combination of all of those factors. May I ask what your Nitrates, phosphates, CA and Alk levels are?
 
My euphyllia is having some issues after lowering nitrates from 20 to about 7 ppm and phosphates from above .10 ppm to about .05 ppm and I raised alk to 8.5 from 8.0...CA from 400 to 425. Might have just been too many swings recently and/or combination of all of those factors. May I ask what your Nitrates, phosphates, CA and Alk levels are?
From my ATI test last week:
Nitrate: 8.13
Phosphate: .09
Calcium: 313.8
Alk: 8.75
I'm working on getting my calcium up, but I'm switching over to the Reef Moonshiners method, so I won't have my new supplements until the end of the week.
 
From my ATI test last week:
Nitrate: 8.13
Phosphate: .09
Calcium: 313.8
Alk: 8.75
I'm working on getting my calcium up, but I'm switching over to the Reef Moonshiners method, so I won't have my new supplements until the end of the week.
Phosphate high ( you want <.04)
Calcium low ( you want 400-440)

Moderate light and water flow always for euphyllia
 
Running your tank with undetectable nitrates and phosphates is a recipe for disaster. Both from starving out your corals and because you run the risk of Dino’s. Both phosphate and nitrate is required for photosynthesis to happen, without them, corals cannot survive.
 
From my ATI test last week:
Nitrate: 8.13
Phosphate: .09
Calcium: 313.8
Alk: 8.75
I'm working on getting my calcium up, but I'm switching over to the Reef Moonshiners method, so I won't have my new supplements until the end of the week.
Very similar/close to my parameters minus Calcium. Must have just been the recent change or parameter ie. made changes too rapidly. Thank you!
 
I’ve had similar issues with hammers …..

I can buy a frag with 2 heads .
they are the same size now as they were 2 years ago when I bought them …..

T5 lighting .
nitrates 5-10ppm
Phos - .04-.06
Cal 425
Alk 7.5dkh

dose esv 2 part .
 

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