Help with Hudra 26hd

[ludnix]

Love the cover! Could you talk a bit more about it? How it was made, etc? I've wanted to do something similar for my Kessil AP700, but have no idea how to approach it.

yeah, Im looking for something similar too.

Here's my post about it in my build thread. I don't want to derail eddie's thread, but if you guys want any help you can send me your lights dimensions and I can try and print one for you guys too.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ludnixs-50g-cube.281367/page-2#post-3663047

 

[eddie beikian]

@jsker @nervousmonkey
Hey guys. So I went out and purchased a Hanna checker for low range phosphate. I am getting a repetitive reading of 0.17

Where do I go from here? Are they too high or are they okay? Now I have to rethink why certain zoa's are unhappy and losing polyps. I thought it was the emerald crab so I pulled him out. Not sure what to do from here other than dipping the colonies. Could it be the changes in light setting cause them to close for over a week?

 

[GoVols]

Do these two things help?

1) http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/

2)

 

[eddie beikian]

I believe the reading of .17 that I got is phosphate ppm if I'm not mistaken? According to RHF guide it is definitely high. So I need to bring my phosphate down not raise it right? Like I said earlier in the post the reading of 0 came from an API test that goes from 0-.25 so I guess my reading of .17 would have never been detected on the API test.

 

[GoVols]

I believe the reading of .17 that I got is phosphate ppm if I'm not mistaken? According to RHF guide it is definitely high. So I need to bring my phosphate down not raise it right? Like I said earlier in the post the reading of 0 came from an API test that goes from 0-.25 so I guess my reading of .17 would have never been detected on the API test.

Yes, The API is terrible for phos.
API cal and alk are decent but dump the others... JMO

If you don't mind.
Your ulr checker gave you a reading of about 56?

 

[GoVols]

@jsker
If it's right then the phos. is high but for Zoa's, I'd lean more for the light changes.

What's your thoughts?

Thanks, Freddie

 

[eddie beikian]

The Hanna checker I have is green. It says phosphate on it as well as ppm right on the screen. So I'm assuming the reading of .17 ppm I got is correct. I'm not familiar with the difference is phosphorus and phosphate? I am making some water right now to do a water change as well and purchasing a gfo reactor soon. I'd like to be in the suggested range of .03-.09.

 

[GoVols]

The Hanna checker I have is green. It says phosphate on it as well as ppm right on the screen. So I'm assuming the reading of .17 ppm I got is correct. I'm not familiar with the difference is phosphorus and phosphate? I am making some water right now to do a water change as well and purchasing a gfo reactor soon. I'd like to be in the suggested range of .03-.09.

Yes,
That would be correct. I thought you had the Hanna ulr checker that reads PPB.
Both are good kits and keep you vials squeaky clean.

You will love running a GFO reactor.

Please, Start at a low GFO dose and bring down your phos. slowly, so you don't shock you reef.

Also, If your not doing it now then it's very important to feed your corals when you get down to Randy's #'s.
Zoa's like a good amount of organics.

 

[eddie beikian]

Alright thank you. I will purchase a gfo reactor soon and will tune in if I have any issues. I have been target feeding everything every other day that's probably why I'm in this predicament now. Luckily my torches and my montipora are growing like crazy right now. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[nervousmonkey]

phosphate is high, so reducing that will help, and like @GoVols said, upping your intensity on whites will help also in terms of growth. Beyond this, there are too many other factors besides light and PO4 to determine what needs to happen. I like adding iodine for zoas, there is a great product by brightwell that can help you with this if you choose it, but beyond the basics, I would say to slowly lower your PO4 as GoVols has said, and to increase some intensity in whites and maybe the UV and lower spectrum blues, but otherwise, you should be good!

 

[Hentz]

Just going to throw this out there...

I've been using Orcus's profile for a few months now with pretty incredible results. Noticing growth every 2-3 days on my Acropora.
It's a replica of Ecotech Marine's SPS AB+ profile.

If your Hydra 26HD / Hydra 52HD are around 12" off the water, here's this profile https://1drv.ms/u/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgZhvyvRF4Kf5orQL7w

If the Hydra 26HD / Hydra 52HD are around 24" off the water, here's this profile https://1drv.ms/u/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgZdjyvRF4Kf5orQL7w

Here are the PAR results I'm getting over the Reefer 170 with my 1 Hydra 26HD 11" off the water level.

 

[SaracensRugby]

There is a Hydra forum on reefcentral where someone copied the Radion SPS+ profile and provides the link that you can download it to your Hydra. And it appears that Hentz beat me to it. Lots of peeople use it with solid success.

 

[Hentz]

There is a Hydra forum on reefcentral where someone copied the Radion SPS+ profile and provides the link that you can download it to your Hydra. And it appears that Hentz beat me to it. Lots of peeople use it with solid success.

Yep.. I posted it directly above you man! Haha.

It's outstanding. I'm truly impressed with how it works. I'll snap a pic of my dads Softie tank while I'm here showing success using it also