richnbowl
Active Member
I am currently building a 200 gallon tank which was given to me and I am trying to get everything together to order so that I may complete it. I am trying to automate everything I can to make it easier for ATO, water changes, etc… so that there is no excuse when I have to do them and that I do not have to rely on friends having to worry about the tank if something goes wrong if I am gone. Currently I have to haul buckets and containers for my ATO and water changes. My issue with my RO/DI unit is that it is about 40 or 50 feet, straight run, from where my aquarium will be. I was at first looking at drilling through my concrete walls bringing the line outside and back to the tank, possibly even placing it in pvc tubing, but I don’t want that look on the outside of my house. I am now thinking about bringing it through my attic/ crawl space. The top of the roof from the ground, where the line would be traveling, is approximately 11 to 12 feet. I am also going to make a separate run to a salt mixing station which I was going to set up which is about 30 feet away, again having to go through the attic. The mixing station would be two 90 or 160 gallon water tanks, depends how much they are and if I could fit them both in my explorer. I could move the RO/DI unit closer to both the mixing station and the tank by about 10 feet but the line from the tap would have to make up the difference in distance.
Ok with all that my RO/DI equipment. I currently have a BRS 6 stage RO/DI Unit. The DI duel stage is separate from the RO unit. The RO unit is making 150 GPH and has a booster pump attached at 75 psi. All lines going into and out of the unit are 1/4 inch. After the RO unit I have a 3 way john guest valve which I currently use to fill RO water for drinking water and my coffee maker and the other line goes to my DI canisters. The line from my DI canisters goes to a ball valve where I fill up my containers for ATO and water changes.
When I make my run from the DI unit to my water mixing station and my aquarium I was going to use a Mur-Lock fitting divider for both lines. First I want solid lines running through my attic, so I do not have to worry about a leak from a Mur-Lock fitting. Now the questions. When I send my lines through the attic should I keep them 1/4 or make them 3/8 lines? I heard that going to a 3/8 inch line would lead to less back pressure, but I do not know if I have to change all of my lines or the one coming out on the DI unit. Should I change any other line sizes and which ones should I change? Should I get a mini bladder tank after the DI unit to the tank and the mixing station? Also should I install check valves anywhere down the line (I do have a check valve on the waste water line)? Any other information would help.
This is my first time making such a large run from my RO/DI and I have been unable to find much information about long runs. Great diagrams on the Spectrapure website but nothing about such long runs and from the different forums I have read the unit pushing the water to a second floor is fine but it may leave me with a drip. Also I have thought about using ball valve and float valve will control my mixing station which will be in an outside shed which is attached to the house, only place I have. The ATO reservoir will have a ball valve solenoid valve and a float switch. The ATO will be run by a Neptune Apex hopefully I will have enough redundancy that my house will not flood. Thanks for your help in advance.
Ok with all that my RO/DI equipment. I currently have a BRS 6 stage RO/DI Unit. The DI duel stage is separate from the RO unit. The RO unit is making 150 GPH and has a booster pump attached at 75 psi. All lines going into and out of the unit are 1/4 inch. After the RO unit I have a 3 way john guest valve which I currently use to fill RO water for drinking water and my coffee maker and the other line goes to my DI canisters. The line from my DI canisters goes to a ball valve where I fill up my containers for ATO and water changes.
When I make my run from the DI unit to my water mixing station and my aquarium I was going to use a Mur-Lock fitting divider for both lines. First I want solid lines running through my attic, so I do not have to worry about a leak from a Mur-Lock fitting. Now the questions. When I send my lines through the attic should I keep them 1/4 or make them 3/8 lines? I heard that going to a 3/8 inch line would lead to less back pressure, but I do not know if I have to change all of my lines or the one coming out on the DI unit. Should I change any other line sizes and which ones should I change? Should I get a mini bladder tank after the DI unit to the tank and the mixing station? Also should I install check valves anywhere down the line (I do have a check valve on the waste water line)? Any other information would help.
This is my first time making such a large run from my RO/DI and I have been unable to find much information about long runs. Great diagrams on the Spectrapure website but nothing about such long runs and from the different forums I have read the unit pushing the water to a second floor is fine but it may leave me with a drip. Also I have thought about using ball valve and float valve will control my mixing station which will be in an outside shed which is attached to the house, only place I have. The ATO reservoir will have a ball valve solenoid valve and a float switch. The ATO will be run by a Neptune Apex hopefully I will have enough redundancy that my house will not flood. Thanks for your help in advance.
