Help with monti

HankstankXXL750

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I have had this monti (I believe) since mid March. Right after I got it one of my blennies covered some of it with sand and that part died off. I mounted it to a rock and moved it up a little. It has really grown. 10 days ago I got more corals and rearranged my DT. I moved this up higher in the tank probably around 170 PAR peak. Also probably higher flow area. I’m assuming one of these causes this die off. I have moved it lower and more sheltered area. But reaching out to anyone with more knowledge in case I’m wrong and there is something else I need to address.
Thanks.

1AC30CEB-E3E5-4A6A-A04B-28A4C8C00C10.jpeg
 
I suggest testing your water parameters and posting the results .. try to move it someplace solitary, and away from anyting that will cover it with sand..
 
I suggest testing your water parameters and posting the results .. try to move it someplace solitary, and away from anyting that will cover it with sand..
Nitrate 25.2, phosphate .33 have been battling these numbers and started dosing homemade no-pox two weeks ago.
No major swings in this. Trying to correct slowly.
Change came as a result of the move I believe. I have just really started with sps so wondering if to intense light? Or too high flow?
Thanks
 
Hi Hank, are you sure that’s not a Hollywood Stunner Chalice? It may be experiencing stn or rtn and may want to consider fragging it just ahead of the tissue loss. Good luck.
You know it could be a chalice. I have some red monti I think that grow similarly. What is stn & rtn?
 
Hi Hank, are you sure that’s not a Hollywood Stunner Chalice? It may be experiencing stn or rtn and may want to consider fragging it just ahead of the tissue loss. Good luck.
Yes I looked it up. It is a HWS chalice. Because it grows skeletally like the red monti I have I thought it was monti. I struggle with this as the montis I’ve had, a green one, and the red ones grow to look like a cup (chalice) and the chalice grow more encrusting. I have a reddish chalice that has hardly changed where this Hollywood Stunner has tripled in size.
 
You know it could be a chalice. I have some red monti I think that grow similarly. What is stn & rtn?
Never mind. It came up on google. Wasn’t sure the initials would work for the search. I’m an old stodgy guy and don’t know the abbreviated language, lol IMHO, ok so I know two.
Thanks. I will frag and dip.
 
Never mind. It came up on google. Wasn’t sure the initials would work for the search. I’m an old stodgy guy and don’t know the abbreviated language, lol IMHO, ok so I know two.
Thanks. I will frag and dip.
Great! No problem. It must be the “slow tissue version as your Chalice is giving you time to frag it. RTN can turn a coral white overnight. Good luck bud.
 
Nitrate 25.2, phosphate .33 have been battling these numbers and started dosing homemade no-pox two weeks ago.
No major swings in this. Trying to correct slowly.
Change came as a result of the move I believe. I have just really started with sps so wondering if to intense light? Or too high flow?
Thanks
try dosing bacteria to bring down your po4, and will help with bio diversity as well. I use PNS probio. it helped tremendously when I started out with sps.


Flow is a key factor with SPS, also test your par levels in your tank, that will help you with coral placement.
 
try dosing bacteria to bring down your po4, and will help with bio diversity as well. I use PNS probio. it helped tremendously when I started out with sps.


Flow is a key factor with SPS, also test your par levels in your tank, that will help you with coral placement.
Currently running no-pox and Phosguard to reduce nutrients. However the chalice was growing great until I moved it. Par is around 175 where I had it.
That is what I’m trying to determine if wrong par or wrong flow for this coral.
Thanks.
 
While your nutrients are high, they are also pretty close to being in the Redfield ratio, so not sure they are the issue. Many tanks have similar nutrients and things are fine.
 
While your nutrients are high, they are also pretty close to being in the Redfield ratio, so not sure they are the issue. Many tanks have similar nutrients and things are fine.
Redfield ratio isn't all that useful, it's more in the realm if pseudo-science, and sounds good, but with little supporting its use beyond it fitting with the 10/0.1 NO3/PO4 levels many currently recommend.

Most would consider the OPs level of nutrients to be high, particularly PO4, and the people with success at those levels typically have very established tanks, which may just be biased by what corals did well in those tanks after years of collecting.
 
Redfield ratio isn't all that useful, it's more in the realm if pseudo-science, and sounds good, but with little supporting its use beyond it fitting with the 10/0.1 NO3/PO4 levels many currently recommend.

Most would consider the OPs level of nutrients to be high, particularly PO4, and the people with success at those levels typically have very established tanks, which may just be biased by what corals did well in those tanks after years of collecting.

"it's more in the realm if pseudo-science, and sounds good, but with little supporting its use" I mean, that's kind of true of many opinions on "how to do things" in this hobby. You said yourself in another thread only a month ago that you're only now learning about the current views on nutrients/balance after being away from the hobby for a decade. 10-20 years ago the prevailing opinion was that Nitrates and Phosphates should be at or near 0. We now know that's actually not great. I think there is quite a bit of supporting evidence of there being something to N : P ratio and not JUST the levels themselves. Anyway, I'm just offering my opinion that OP's nutrients are most definitely considered "high", but I'm not convinced that's the issue with his chalice.
 
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"it's more in the realm if pseudo-science, and sounds good, but with little supporting its use" I mean, that's kind of true of many opinions on "how to do things" in this hobby. You said yourself in another thread only a month ago that you're only now learning about the current views on nutrients/balance after being away from the hobby for a decade. 10-20 years ago the prevailing opinion was that Nitrates and Phosphates should be at or near 0. We now know that's actually not great. I think there is quite a bit of supporting evidence of there being something to N : P ratio and not JUST the levels themselves. Anyway, I'm just offering my opinion that OP's nutrients are most definitely considered "high", but I'm not convinced that's the issue with his chalice.
Just seems like a stretch to dismiss it based on a ratio when you agree they are “high”.

Would 300/3 be OK too? At what point does the ratio no longer apply in evaluating “high nutrients” in the supporting evidence you are referencing?
 
Just seems like a stretch to dismiss it based on a ratio when you agree they are “high”.

Would 300/3 be OK too? At what point does the ratio no longer apply in evaluating “high nutrients” in the supporting evidence you are referencing?
At what point? Couldn't tell you. But yes 300 : 3 is probably far beyond that point, haha. Using an extreme example that we can both agree is probably unsafe doesn't really prove/disprove anything. We'll just have to agree to disagree on his high nutrients being the issue here.
 
"it's more in the realm if pseudo-science, and sounds good, but with little supporting its use" I mean, that's kind of true of many opinions on "how to do things" in this hobby. You said yourself in another thread only a month ago that you're only now learning about the current views on nutrients/balance after being away from the hobby for a decade. 10-20 years ago the prevailing opinion was that Nitrates and Phosphates should be at or near 0. We now know that's actually not great. I think there is quite a bit of supporting evidence of there being something to N : P ratio and not JUST the levels themselves. Anyway, I'm just offering my opinion that OP's nutrients are most definitely considered "high", but I'm not convinced that's the issue with his chalice.
Do you have any references that support the notion that the redfield ratio allows for “high” nutrients relative to systems with parameters outside the ratio?
 
They are high.. but the tank looks new, it's a close up picture but the rock has a little algae and the sand is looking new under the rocks it was started in this tank in March, it has high nutrients and low age, so it's likely a common combination of things taking this coral out.

I see in one of you build pics there is a frag of Bali green slimer acro, how is that doing and most of your corals are softs and leathers one is a GIANT leather or toadstool are you sure there are no toxins or coral warfare going on? You said new corals 10 days ago, how long after of before did this happen, if before well....

There could be a combination of issues here, but definitely to me .33 p04 is high and I've never seen it on my tests
 

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