Help with red hair algae

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Have red hair algae talking over the aquarium and need to get rid of it. Have a about 15 turbo snails and just added 2 tuxedo urchins to. They seem to eat some of it, but they never stay on the rocks. I will move them to a patch of it they will graze on it then move to the sand. Parameters are PO4 .1 (normally keep it at .04-.06) NO3 10, Ca 420, Alk 8.5-9, Mg 1350. Lights are T5 on for about 7 hours a day. Will a black out help knock it back? Tank size is 250 gal.
Red algae1.jpg
red algae2.jpg
 
Hello

a black out will slow it down and get some die off, but I don’t think enough to see significant results. I have heard people having good results with vibrant

have you tried that yer?
 
Have red hair algae talking over the aquarium and need to get rid of it. Have a about 15 turbo snails and just added 2 tuxedo urchins to. They seem to eat some of it, but they never stay on the rocks. I will move them to a patch of it they will graze on it then move to the sand. Parameters are PO4 .1 (normally keep it at .04-.06) NO3 10, Ca 420, Alk 8.5-9, Mg 1350. Lights are T5 on for about 7 hours a day. Will a black out help knock it back? Tank size is 250 gal.
Red algae1.jpg
red algae2.jpg

This looks like cyanobacteria.
 
Do I need to add organics?
KH
PH

Overview of what people try.

Black out used to be a very popular remedy, but I have no idea to what degree such a treatment harms coral. It is still used. Sometimes it works well.

There is the Chemiclean treatment. If directions are followed religiously, the treatment seems to be the most successful. Whether the cyanobacteria reappears depends on unknown factors like cyanobacteria species and conditions in the aquarium. There are some who consider using Chemiclean as a cop out of sorts.

The natural approach strives to alter the aquarium environment to discourage cyanobacteria growth. Increasing water flow where the cyanobacteria is growing, vacuuming up or blowing off the mats, reduced feeding, etc. all in an attempt to reduce organics in the system and make the surfaces inhospitable to cyanobacteria growth. Sometimes WasteAway is is used. This is the slow approach and whether the cyanobacteria recede because of the actions taken or it would have stopped if nothing was done is unknown.

Finally, there is help the competing organisms. In this narrative, low nitrate and maybe low phosphate starved the competing organisms that keep cyanobacteria in check. This is a relatively new narrative that has gained popularity. The idea is to tweak the nitrate and phosphate levels up to help the competing organisms starve out cyanobacteria. Like the natural approach, it is a slow, long term method in which you will never know whether doing nothing would have worked just as well.

The typical approach probably involves trying many methods at the same time. This is OK because none do any harm, except maybe the black out remedy, and it makes you feel better that you are doing something. No one can predict when cyanobacteria will start to grow or why. This can lead to frustration when using the above methods.
 
I don't think its cyano. It doesn't blow off the rocks. Scrubbing with brush still doesn't get it all off.
Interesting!
 
Pull off as much as you can by hand. Snails and urchins won't eat it once it gets long. But if you pull a spot of it off, they'll scrub what's left clean down to the rock.

You can also hit it with some boiling RODI water from a turkey baster. Your CUC will attack it relentlessly.
 

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