help with strenthening DIY stand

[Devaji]

so I build this a while back not my best work...but it has been a holding up strong for over a year.
I moved the tank to a new spot in the home and now i want to strengthen the stand for twisting or racking.
as its in a new area of the home that has more traffic. just want to be on the safe side.

my plane was/is to screw in cold rolled steel in the sides...and add magnets to the front door.

should I ad a 2x4 to the sides?
plywood to the back panel?
or plywood all around.

 

[Redleg]

A couple pictures would help. But generally speaking skinning the stand with plywood is normally the most cost effective method. 3/4" ply is almost unbelievably strong.

 

[Devaji]

Here are some pics of the build...

 

[Devaji]

Here are the side I am working with l.

 

[BMW540]

1/2-3/4” plywood all around will definitely help prevent twisting

 

[Redleg]

I would skin the sides and the bottom half of the back at a minimum. Then you can either leave the front open or make some simple doors. Only skinning the bottom half of the back leaves easy power cord access and increases the air flow inside the stand.

 

[Devaji]

you guys think plywood would be better than cold rolled steel I have the front panel already. and sides too there just 8' small from a 40br upgrade was thinking of getting new sides.

I know most ppl do plywood was looking for something a little different.

all so thinking about a welded stand then using glass for panels.

would 1" steel do the trick or would I need to go 2" all around?

tank is a SCA 90 36x24x24 with 12mm glass

 

[Redleg]

Sorry I can't comment on steel stands. I'm an amateur woodworker and don't really know anything about steel.

 

[davocean]

Steel will rust, even most stainless will eventually.

Ply has incredible strength, and what you are looking for is shear strength, which ply is perfect for.

Your stand frame is relying a lot on those face frame screws the way it is, either having added a 2x or even 1x connecting both vertical and horizontal members would have given a great deal more strength, but it's alittle tougher to do that now w/ that bottom added, at least on the inside of frame making less visible.

So now adding to exterior, ply would be best IMO, skin it, and you'll have an amazing increase in strength keeping it from racking

 

[Devaji]

Steel will rust, even most stainless will eventually.

Ply has incredible strength, and what you are looking for is shear strength, which ply is perfect for.

Your stand frame is relying a lot on those face frame screws the way it is, either having added a 2x or even 1x connecting both vertical and horizontal members would have given a great deal more strength, but it's alittle tougher to do that now w/ that bottom added, at least on the inside of frame making less visible.

So now adding to exterior, ply would be best IMO, skin it, and you'll have an amazing increase in strength keeping it from racking

Hey Devocean I was hoping you would chime in here!

yeah I built the stand off rockets design but messed up the for the sump or I could not add the 2nd set of legs. it is wood glued and well as pocket screwed. then I added 4 L bracket for the side support. like I said not the best work I have done but it been doing great for over a year but now while I have it empty I want to beef it up and enclose + make it pretty for the GF most importantly eh? haha

if I was to redo it all over again I would do a 100% plywood stand and no 2x4s but I have this unless you expert wood working say it a very bad idea to skin this and use it I will keep it and work with what I have.

was looking at 3/4 Baltic birch ply but it $115 a 4x8 sheet oh my but did look nice tho...

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

this is why i hate 2x stands. use plywood and a lot of wood glue. the glue is what holds everything together, not the screws. baltic birch is nice but i prefer red oak. i like the grain better and it cuts better.

 

[Devaji]

would love to go T slot but good that stuff add up quick.

so this might we a silly question bit what is the best way to add plywood to the sides and still look nice?
glue with pipe clamps ?
drill & screw then cover holes with putty?

I dont think I should use kreg jig through 2x4 correct? or am over thinking this.

also open to "best" type of plywood to use and stain VS paint.

so many thinks to think about that is why I have been butting this off for a week or more....

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

i’ve built dozens of stands. here’s one i did for a 225 and it’s all plywood.

 

[Devaji]

this is why i hate 2x stands. use plywood and a lot of wood glue. the glue is what holds everything together, not the screws. baltic birch is nice but i prefer red oak. i like the grain better and it cuts better.

oh trust me I have thought about redoing the whole stand from 100% ply while I am in the process I can build one for the new IM25 coming after BF deals...

 

[Devaji]

i’ve built dozens of stands. here’s one i did for a 225 and it’s all plywood.

oh man that is so nice! can I see more of your work PLZ
it the doors that give me trouble...

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

 

[Devaji]

oh man that is great work!
love how you added the corner 45s in great idea if I make a new stand I am going to steel that from ya

 

[Devaji]

the problem I have is my sump is 36" (40br) and tank is 36"
so I was thinking an open face ADA style stand so I can fit in the sump.

or get a smaller sump= more less volume $$ boo

 

[cracker]

I like the i/s back covered with plywood .I'd use construction adhesive & screws ,putty the holes. nice & sturdy ,cost effective also .

 

[Redleg]

My current in progress build is 36" stand for a 24" tank. That will leave me a nice little work area beside the tank. My sump is the reason for the oversized stand. It's 30" which leaves me some room inside for storage or future upgrades.