Help with water levels in the sump

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I'm planning my first sump that will be built in the next 2 or 3 of days and I have a couple of doubts. I managed to live without one for 13 years :)

The sump is 100 cm x 40 cm x 40 cm (40"x 16" x 16").

sump3.jpg


The return pump is a Jebao DCP-10000 (2641 gallons/hour).

What's the minimum water level for the pump chamber?

The skimmer recommends a water level of 22cms. Will that also be enough for the pump?

What would be the recommended pipe diameter for the pump?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
I'm planning my first sump that will be built in the next 2 or 3 of days and I have a couple of doubts. I managed to live without one for 13 years :)

The sump is 100 cm x 40 cm x 40 cm (40"x 16" x 16").

sump3.jpg


The return pump is a Jebao DCP-10000 (2641 gallons/hour).

What's the minimum water level for the pump chamber?

The skimmer recommends a water level of 22cms. Will that also be enough for the pump?

What would be the recommended pipe diameter for the pump?

Thanks in advance for the help.

1) What's the minimum water level for the pump chamber?
- I would make it 31 cms (12 inches). 22cms is only 6 inches approx and you might suck in some air which would cause air bubbles in your display. Also (refer to #2 response below), you want your skimmer chamber around 31cms also if the recommended skimmer height is 22cms so mine as well make the skimmer and return pump chamber consistent.

2) The skimmer recommends a water level of 22cms. Will that also be enough for the pump?
- I see in your first chamber that the skimmer recommends 22cms and your first baffle is exactly 22cms. I wouldn't do this. The recommended height of a skimmer is a little variable and will need to take some adjustment. I would make the first baffle 31 cms (12 inches). This gives you the ability to prop the skimmer up on a skimmer stand at the exact depth you need it at to run best. This also allows you to change out skimmers in the future and not have to worry about the height of the water being too shallow if it requires a greater than 22cm depth.

3)What would be the recommended pipe diameter for the pump?
- This all depends on the pump but with the one you plan to use, a 1" return line would work.


It was surprisingly pretty difficult to search for the intake and outlet sizing for this pump so I am going to post the instruction manual for the pump below just in case you need it for reference:

https://www.theaquariumsolution.com...ownloads/DCP Pumps Operating Instructions.pdf
 
Thanks a lot! I think now it's better to increase the height of the sump by a couple of inches?

sump4.jpg
 
Thanks a lot! I think now it's better to increase the height of the sump by a couple of inches?

sump4.jpg

Yes perfect.

Also, try to only have your overflow pipe 3/4 to 1" below the water line where it enters into the sump area. If you have it more than 1" below the water line, sometimes its hard for the overflow to clear air when the system is turned off for maintenance or in the event of a power failure and the overflows might not start back up as intended resulting in a potential flood.
 
Thanks once again.

sump5.jpg


The guy who's building the tank just drilled the bottom glass

49307646_2082397468739945_4346373265644584960_n.jpg


There are 2 x 2" holes for the drain (Herbie) and 2 x 1" holes (1 for the return and 1 to pass electrical cables to the lighting fixtures and pumps).
 
Thanks once again.

sump5.jpg


The guy who's building the tank just drilled the bottom glass

49307646_2082397468739945_4346373265644584960_n.jpg


There are 2 x 2" holes for the drain (Herbie) and 2 x 1" holes (1 for the return and 1 to pass electrical cables to the lighting fixtures and pumps).

Now your cooking ;)

Looks good!
 
I posted the last photo and I realised he made a mistake, but now there's nothing we can do about it.

The tank is 55" x 36 x 24 and I planned the overflow so that a single gyre could provide the circulation for the tank. The pump would push water directly to the opposite corner. This would mean that I would be able to use the pump at full speed without moving the sand around.


44129364_302337690358768_1798426162590908416_n.jpg


As you can see in the image below, he mirrored the design. Bummer...

49307646_2082397468739945_4346373265644584960_n.jpg


The pump will now push the water to the middle of the front glass. I doubt that I can use the pump at full speed without moving the sand. The following image shows what I planned.

Gyre.jpg
 
I posted the last photo and I realised he made a mistake, but now there's nothing we can do about it.

The tank is 55" x 36 x 24 and I planned the overflow so that a single gyre could provide the circulation for the tank. The pump would push water directly to the opposite corner. This would mean that I would be able to use the pump at full speed without moving the sand around.


44129364_302337690358768_1798426162590908416_n.jpg


As you can see in the image below, he mirrored the design. Bummer...

49307646_2082397468739945_4346373265644584960_n.jpg


The pump will now push the water to the middle of the front glass. I doubt that I can use the pump at full speed without moving the sand. The following image shows what I planned.

Gyre.jpg

Tank will look nice for sure!

Are you dead set on a gyre? I had two, and honestly, they didn't give me the flow I really wanted/needed and I am running a peninsula style tank also.
 
I already bought a Jebao CP-150 (7500 GPH). In my current tank (36"×36"×20) I can only run it at 40%. More and it moves sand around.

It's a mixed reef with over 30 anemones, so I want to try to get away with a single pump, to reduce the odds of anemones meeting a pump. A bta is no big deal, but a magnifica is game over.

I will try it out and I can always position it vertically and direct the flow wherever I want. It will be more dangerous for the anemones than having the pump horizontally near the surface.
 
I already bought a Jebao CP-150. In my current tank (36"×36"×20) I can only run it at 40%. More and it moves sand around.

It's a mixed reef with over 30 anemones, so I want to try to get away with a single pump, to reduce the odds of anemones meeting a pump. A bta is no big deal, but a magnifica is game over.

I will try it out and I can always position it vertically and direct the flow wherever I want. It will be more dangerous for the anemones than having the pump horizontally near the surface.

Its not so much the power, its just the flow pattern it produces. I (like you) setup the gyres right on the overflow box side. I found that having it there prevented a lot of stuff from going over the overflow and into the sump to be skimmed out. I found that placing four Tunze pumps gave me much better circulation and also better export of nasties from the display tank.
 
Jesus this guy moves faster than a F1 team LOL

At this pace you'll have water in your tank by tomorrow afternoon.

He moves in bursts. I ordered the tank in August :)
 
He moves in bursts. I ordered the tank in August :)

LOL sounds like my guys then. Its dormant for months and then the tank shows up the next day after I try and see if he is still alive LOL
 
I will try out different orientations for the pump. I hadn't thoutght about the reduction in skimming that the pump near the surface causes.
 
I will try out different orientations for the pump. I hadn't thoutght about the reduction in skimming that the pump near the surface causes.

I can take a picture for you and show you.... sometimes you get surface detritus and what-not that float to the surface. By having the gyre right where you have it in front of the overflow, it keeps all that stuff on the other end of the tank and unable to go into your sump area.
 
I can take a picture for you and show you.... sometimes you get surface detritus and what-not that float to the surface. By having the gyre right where you have it in front of the overflow, it keeps all that stuff on the other end of the tank and unable to go into your sump area.

Yes, I can see how that happens. Right now I have some dirty foam right on top of the pump.
 
Having you accounted for DT drain into sump when your return pump shuts off? My 5'x2' DT drains around 3/4" which raises my sump about 1 1/2".
 
I just increased the height of the sump by an inch because of the rise in the baffles height. I am going to try to calculate the volume of water in the overflow plus water in the pipes.

Edit. Aproximately 10 litres (2.64 gallons), 5 from the overflow and 5 in the pipes. I think it's fine.
 
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