Help!

[Lavey29]

What medications should i be using in my qt?

Copper followed by prazi. You most likely got brook in your tank from the clowns. It's a deadly fish disease and remains in the tank unless a fallow period is followed. Research it so you can start off again on a better path to success.

 

[gulfcoast76]

Copper followed by prazi. You most likely got brook in your tank from the clowns. It's a deadly fish disease and remains in the tank unless a fallow period is followed. Research it so you can start off again on a better path to success.

I was JUST reading about brook. Ive never heard of that but i was thinking some of the fish definitely looked like the pics of brook

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Yes i have 10 pds live rock and i also have a skimmer running. Substrate is caribsea live sand

only 10 lbs? how big is the tank? normally need somewhere close to a pound a gallon, the rock is the biofilter that keeps the fish healthy.

 

[gulfcoast76]

I was JUST reading about brook. Ive never heard of that but i was thinking some of the fish definitely looked like the pics of brook

So with that treatment, i can do that in my display? And if so what dobyou recommend i do with the nems and seahorses during treatment? Thanks

 

[gulfcoast76]

only 10 lbs? how big is the tank? normally need somewhere close to a pound a gallon, the rock is the biofilter that keeps the fish healthy.

I started in a 25 and then got a 36

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I started in a 25 and then got a 36

well first, as mentioned, you chose the wrong fish to be in a seahorse tank, you build a tank for either a reef or seahorses, but can't do both.

a tang should not be in a 36, neither should the foxface, and lionfish is a predator fish it belongs in a predator tank. You didnt't read up on your pets requirements at all.

as I mentioned, rock provides the surface area for nitrifying bacteria to turn ammonia into nitrate, you dont have enough rock in your tank to support fish life along with the seahorses, thats why everything keeps dying.

Honestly, good on you for keep the seahorses alive, thats impressive, but its so important to read up on animals requirements before buying them.

 

[vetteguy53081]

All fish were temp and drip acclimated. Some would last a couple weeks some less than a week. I left it fishless during the course of ich treatment.

How long (amount of time and did you verify salinity in the bag matched that of the display tank?)
How long was the tank fishless (2 weeks, 6 weeks or ??)

 

[vetteguy53081]

What medications should i be using in my qt?

In many cases coppersafe, but can be prazi Pro or formalin
It depends what you want to address . . . parasites . . . flukes, etc

 

[Lavey29]

So with that treatment, i can do that in my display? And if so what dobyou recommend i do with the nems and seahorses during treatment? Thanks

No don't treat display tank. Leave it fishless for a minimum 60 up to 76 days. QT any incoming fish in a separate tank or pay for a fish vendor to do the QT for you. Also Jay mentioned the sea horses might need to be removed for fallow period.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Photo. Was wondering about the plastic plants...could they be leaching some chemicals into water???

Not likely a parameter issue and agree the plants will easily leech low level toxins as many are made with petroleum products. Go natural but silk plants are a safer bet. What test kits are you using?
You can safely go 6 to 8 weeks , 6 weeks at higher temp at 80.5 but 8 weeks is best
76 days is an old rule and based on lifecycle of parasites, not needed

 

[gulfcoast76]

How long (amount of time and did you verify salinity in the bag matched that of the display tank?)
How long was the tank fishless (2 weeks, 6 weeks or ??)

Around 2 hrs dripping. I did not check the lfs salinity. I assumed it should be correct. And close to 6 weeks

 

[gulfcoast76]

Not likely a parameter issue and agree the plants will easily leech low level toxins as many are made with petroleum products. Go natural but silk plants are a safer bet. What test kits are you using?
You can safely go 6 to 8 weeks , 6 weeks at higher temp at 80.5 but 8 weeks is best
76 days is an old rule and based on lifecycle of parasites, not needed

Im gonna remove them just to be safe. And as for tests i have a api master set... i know..i been reading they arent the best. I also have some ammonia test strips i use. As well as the 5 in 1 test strips.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Im gonna remove them just to be safe. And as for tests i have a api master set... i know..i been reading they arent the best. I also have some ammonia test strips i use. As well as the 5 in 1 test strips.

Test strips are worse than the test kits and are also designed for freshwater hence the added nitrate line (dont worry about nitrate in saltwater unless sky high)
Best bets are salifert or Hanna brand kits.
What you can do to assure your water quality is to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and compare readings- then you'll know
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.

 

[gulfcoast76]

Test strips are worse than the test kits and are also designed for freshwater hence the added nitrate line (dont worry about nitrate in saltwater unless sky high)
Best bets are salifert or Hanna brand kits.
What you can do to assure your water quality is to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and compare readings- then you'll know
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.

I have saltwater test strips. And have had the lfs test water numerous times. Ive never had a water quality issue..my nems all have always been great shape.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have saltwater test strips. And have had the lfs test water numerous times. Ive never had a water quality issue..my nems all have always been great shape.

How is LFS testing water and with what kits?
Inverts will fare better than fish. The fish are the actual hosts for parasites.

 

[gulfcoast76]

Does anyone have a brand name of the formalin to recommend

 

[LiamPM]

Of course. The list seems quite long..but as for symptoms, only a few have shown any. So lets see ive had a blue tang, a mandarin, a lionfish, a foxface rabbitfish,a sweetlip, dianas hogfish

Almost all of those will cause you issues whichever way you look at it in your tank for both size and setup - You have a small tank - Those are some large, demanding fish you are adding.

Id say its a pretty good shout that you had velvet or brook at this point and misdiagnosed ich. It explains the fish loss without any invert effects and is quite commonly misdiagnosed these days - Id follow a strict QT process for fallow and have a deep re think about stocking before commiting to anything.

Im not doing the "tang police" thing but our tanks setting and size should dictate what we keep - Your tank doesnt allow for those species you've attempted - The sweetlips for one example, id assume is a Harlequin/spotted and capable of 2 and a half feet in length in the wild - Your tank is too small which is stress inducing right off the bat and almost no where to hide and get out the line of sight will further stress them, especially the likes of a blue tnag being a hide and seek specialist.

Time for a rethink on stocking......