Hi there, I have a few questions

[arge]

First question with a bit of explanation is that I've heard that our local tap water is very clean, low TDS in the 20 ppm range. I asked the lfs owner/manager who sells RODI filtration units if i can just use just the RO portion and skip the DI resin and he said yes. So I bought a RO filter and a handheld TDS tester(HMdigital). I have tested the tap water 3 days in a row and got readings of 15 TDS each time. My question is if when i do filter through the RO and i get good results, hopefully 0 tds should I still add a DI filter downstream or am i good?

 

[T_BONE]

Honestly adding another canister to the RO for the DI resin isn’t that much cost wise and in my opinion is good insurance down the road.

 

[DrBoomson]

IMO if there’s any detectable amount of TDS its unsatisfactory. You can get stand alone DI canister add on for pretty cheap on brs

 

[arge]

Sorry i posted before completing my series of questions......#2 is refractometer, I would prefer to go digital if i could, my choices are a hanna salinity tester a american marine salinity monitor a milwaukee digital refractometer or the ice cap handheld or should i go with the standard refractometer? #3 is i would prefer simple and easy water testing, digital when practical, but also with good consistent accurate results could you please recommend test kits? #4 Tank is dry right now, will be using dry marco rock and caribsea arag-alive sand, will start the cycle with Brightwell macrobactor 7, and pure ammonia. My question is what water parameters do i need to test during cycling. when I add 1st fish and CUC and when i add corals? Thank you in advance.

 

[arge]

Oh by the way I live in Canada so ordering online from US stores is a pain. Plus i want to support my local fish store but yes i can get a stand alone DI cartridge. And thanks for the replies.