High Chromium Level

BadgerReefer · Nov 2, 2019

My Innovative Marine SR-60 tank has been running for about a year. Things have overall progressed well but starting a few months ago I've started adding corals. Mushrooms, Zoas, Anthelia, and even euphyllia have done well. However, a couple chalices, a Candy Cane, and now 2 favia have done the same thing - initially are OK, but then over the course of 2-3 months, polyps gradually retract and they die. My parameters have been stable and good (spec grav 1.025, temp 77-78, ph 8.1-8.4, alk 8.6-9, phos 0.02-0.06, nitrate 1-2, mag 1380-1440, calcium 460-500). Running filter socks, skimmer, algae reactor, and using a media caddy with GFO and ROX0.8 carbon. Feed few times per day with Marin/Hikari pellets + Nori + frozen mysis. Using BRS bulk 2-part and magnesium, CoralAminos, and phyoplankton. RO/DI output is always 0 TDS. Because I couldn't figure out why the LPS weren't doing well, I got a Triton ICP test. It confirmed that my parameters were correct. I had nothing wrong other than no iodine and a Chromium level of 16 mcg/l.

Triton Lab Showroom - Explore this water test results and click on the image above.

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www.triton-lab.de

I will try dosing iodine but obviously I'm concerned about the chromium. Like several other threads, I've looked everywhere for a source and can't find it. I started the tank with BRS Reef Saver rock and CaribSea LiveSand and have no exposed metal. I just cleaned my pumps and everything looked OK. I have a grounding probe, but it's titanium and has no evidence of corrosion.

Since this appears to be a common problem, are there other causes I should be looking for? If I can't find one, how can I at least remove the chromium. It does seem to me that when I replace the carbon, the LPS look better for a while. They also look better after a 15-20% water change. Replacing all my pumps just isn't financially feasible, nor do I think it will help. Others have had this problem and it hasn't helped. Also, if I had exposed metal, a random nail, etc I would expect other metals to be high on my ICP test.

I would appreciate any suggestions people have.

King Turkey · Nov 2, 2019

I would just keep running carbon maybe change it out more often. intel you figure out the source of the problem. I do not think though that it is the issue at hand with your corals. what sorta flow do you have? what settings are power head/ heads, on controller settings. some chalices do not mind light some like it real dark. some eat hardcore some don't eat much. some can deal with flow some like it calm. how do you acclimate do you coral dip. are you sure all inverts/ fish are reef safe in tank?

BadgerReefer · Nov 2, 2019

crabcore said:
I would just keep running carbon maybe change it out more often. intel you figure out the source of the problem. I do not think though that it is the issue at hand with your corals. what sorta flow do you have? what settings are power head/ heads, on controller settings. some chalices do not mind light some like it real dark. some eat hardcore some don't eat much. some can deal with flow some like it calm. how do you acclimate do you coral dip. are you sure all inverts/ fish are reef safe in tank?

Using MP10s with varying setting and placed then where there is low to mod flow but have also tried moving them without improvement. Overall flow is ~50x/hr. I dip everything with Coral Rx and Bayer before adding. I have a tang, fairy wrasse, flasher wrasse, 2 clowns and chromis. Cleaner shrimp, emerald crab, trochus snails and hermit crabs. Have never seen anything messing with the corals.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Nov 3, 2019

Chromium is a main component of stainless steel and I wouldn't assume that you'd need to see other metals. Check for things like hose clamps.

Metal binders such as metasorb or a polyflter may remove chromium.